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 thru-hull overhaul		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/26/2004 :  11:11:46  Show Profile
I've been reading how gate valves should not be used on boats. Two of mine are frozen. I'd love to replace them. Have other people done this? Is it a big deal? I have not seen any step by step instructions in any of my resources. It doesnt seem too tough but I would not want to undertake it in a vacume. In any case it is probobly a project for next season. Thanks.
Charlie McKitrick
Norwell, MA
Valiant Lady... for now
'81 C 25 SR/FK
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts
Response Posted - 05/26/2004 :  11:54:01  Show Profile
You say thru-hull but in 1981 Catalina installed to-hulls - have you upgraded? If not and your valves are frozen this may be an indicator of corrosion - meaning the to-hulls may also be corroded and weakened - which if they fail would sink your boat . . .


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cmckitrick
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USA
119 Posts
Response Posted - 05/26/2004 :  12:52:26  Show Profile
Maybe my terminology is not right. I'm still new at this and still do not understand my plumbing and what goes to where. I know the valve under the V berth works and the one in the galley and the under the sink in the head are stuck.
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts
Response Posted - 05/26/2004 :  14:04:45  Show Profile
Replacing valves are cake - they thread on and off (reinstalling with thread sealer of course.) The real culprit is the hidden corrision inside the material that secures the to-hull to-the-hull. The to-hull can be corroded enough that it will break-off with minimal impact. The thru-hull has a flange and mounts from the outside in - a more secure fitting.

http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6640
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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts
Response Posted - 05/26/2004 :  21:31:06  Show Profile
"To-Hulls" are chunks of pipe fiberglassed into a 'volcano' of resin where they go through the hull.

"Thru-Hulls" are more modern... the fitting is held snugly in place by the clamping effect of a threaded nut on the fitting itself. Easy to replace the new stuff. With the old style you need to grind away the mountain of 'stuff' and use a hole saw to make the opening for the new thru-hull.

Replacement of the old style to-hulls is highly recommended.
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steephen
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100 Posts
Response Posted - 06/01/2004 :  16:25:24  Show Profile
I have #1667 SK with "to hulls" that I replaced. On one, the gate valve spun off the threaded nipple easily and I replaced with ball valve. On the other two, the 1/2" (?) threaded nipple spun free of the volcano. I pulled them out, cleaned out the holes with acetone, buttered them up with PLENTY of Boat-Life 5200, squished new threaded nipples in, threaded on new ball valves, and let them sit for a week while the 5200 set up. Worked like a charm. No leaks, easly "lever" style valves.

Stephen Z
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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts
Response Posted - 06/01/2004 :  23:47:30  Show Profile
Yes, it is a good idea to replace the "to hulls" that originally came with C25's with real "through hulls". There are two kinds of "Thru hulls": 1) a fitting with a round flange on the outside, and a nut that fits onto the screw-threated pipe inside the hull; 2) same on the outside, but on the inside of the hull the nut that screws on has a trangular flange with a small hole at the apex of each flange. Once the nut has been screwed tightly against the hull on the inside (but not so tight as to squeeze out all the caulk), a hole is drilled into the hull through each apex screw hole and small screws embedded into the hull. The second is the preferred thru hull, since the screws in the flange prevent the thru hull from spinning and breaking the caulk seal when too much effort is (inevitably, at some point) applied to the valve. Also, choose bronze fittings over marelon. AND, since thru hulls need to be replaced every twenty years or so, or checked for seal integrity every five years or so, NEVER use 5200. Use 4200 or Life Caulk for this application. Apply it and then let it sit for an hour to skin over before adding the hardware.
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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts
Response Posted - 06/01/2004 :  23:47:56  Show Profile
Yes, it is a good idea to replace the "to hulls" that originally came with C25's with real "through hulls". There are two kinds of "Thru hulls": 1) a fitting with a round flange on the outside, and a nut that fits onto the screw-threated pipe inside the hull; 2) same on the outside, but on the inside of the hull the nut that screws on has a trangular flange with a small hole at the apex of each flange. Once the nut has been screwed tightly against the hull on the inside (but not so tight as to squeeze out all the caulk), a hole is drilled into the hull through each apex screw hole and small screws embedded into the hull. The second is the preferred thru hull, since the screws in the flange prevent the thru hull from spinning and breaking the caulk seal when too much effort is (inevitably, at some point) applied to the valve. Also, choose bronze fittings over marelon. AND, since thru hulls need to be replaced every twenty years or so, or checked for seal integrity every five years or so, NEVER use 5200. Use 4200 or Life Caulk for this application. Apply it and then let it sit for an hour to skin over before adding the hardware.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.