Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello everyone. So getting closed to my Great Lakes Cruise, using it as an excuse to my wife to invest in new lines an blocks in the name of "saftey." Leading all lines aft. Basic question, with a basic answer, but I was wondering what you all have done in regards to routing as many as six (or more) lines aft through the little spaces between the teak grab rails and the pop top. I think there is room, but not much. My first thought is to run a few up and over the pop top, but I do not want to hurt potential resale value. Also the minute I do that, the next day will be the day I decide to put the silly thing up for the first time. A cabin top winch also would be nice, at least for the main halyard. Another related but different question, what is everyone using at the deck mast plate in terms of blocks. My first inclination is to use simple (cheap) swivel blocks attached through the handy holes in the piece. On a previous boat I used stand up blocks with springs mounted right to the deck. The advantage being that with the stand up blocks, the block doesn't fall lifeless to the deck when there is no tension on it's line, which might result in a tangle or two.
Thanks as always Lance 85 FK/SR "Bernoulli's Ride"
Here is a link to the Tech Tips section of the Association website. It shows the mast base on Snickerdoodle and should answer most of your questions.
You'll see that my first and second reefing lines (single line setup) as well as my cunningham are setup with swivel blocks secured to the mast. Each line is long enough for me to tie them to the handle on the sliding hatch when it's pulled all the way closed - so I can reach them from the cockpit. When you look at these swivel blocks, they don't look strong enough. But, I've used this system for 20 years without a failure - including sailing in strong winds both single and double reefed.
<font size="2"> <font face="Comic Sans MS"> I have [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/tt008.htm"] triple rope clutches [/url] on each side of the cabintop. They fit neatly just inside the hand rails and do not interfere with the poptop. IMO this improvement done right will enhance the value of your boat. Follow the link for the Tech Tip.
Underlined words are a <b><font color="red">HOT</font id="red"></b> link. </font id="size2"> </font id="Comic Sans MS">
Triple organizers and clutches work fine on both sides of the pop-top. Angle the organizers so that the lines going aft are close together, and I also suggest moving the organizers somewhat aft of the mast to make the turning angles shallower and give you more standing room by the mast. I laid it all out with lines through the hardware before marking and drilling. I feel the mast plate with swivel blocks are better than stand-up blocks because you aren't adding holes in the coachroof, and the entire rig is holding the blocks in place--slightly more strength than needed. When the swivel blocks are lying down, the lines still don't have any way to get tangled. It all works fine!
I like my Harken stacked doubles for deck organizers. It gives me four turning blocks on the organizer in less space. The fourth is my topping lift to port, it goes into a clam cleat for easy adjustment, a clutch would not be as easy to use for a trimmed line as opposed to a hauled line. To starboard my fourth is the boom vang, once again a much trimmed line.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.