Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
What is the width of the cockpit sole and height at the stern? I am away from my boat and want to purchase one of the cube coolers for using in the cocpit under the tiller. Obviously I want the largest one that won't interfere with the tiller (and the cup holders they have will come in handy) but need the measurements from the boat to decide. The Admiral is now overdue with the new crew so I won't be headed out to the marina for awhile, hopefully by mid August. Just in time for 100+ degree heat. Thanks, Sid
Width of my cockpit sole is 15 3/4 inches at the transom end (just measured it for a teak grate); will try to measure the height next time I'm out- but remember the tiller on different boats can be slightly different heights - at least I can say that my tiller was raised a bit when I replaced my rudder with a new one from Catalina.
Steve, As soon as I find the best fit I'll post it. A cube cooler is just a square cooler. Igloo makes a model that is wheeled and has a built in storage compartment in the lid and cup holders either in the lid or that mount on the side. Fishing pole holders are also available(pic available in WM online catalog http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0886.asp). There are non marine versions at Walmart, etc and in various sizes. With a baby coming, the wheels will make getting around the docks easier and less strain on the back. I don't use the icebox on the boat, tired of cleaning and sponging it out and it doesn't stay cool anyway. Works best as most use it for dry storage. I'm also tired of lugging a traditional cooler in and out of the cabin or cockpit to make room for sleeping, fishing lounging whatever the Admiral wants. The cube cooler seems like a nice compromise and hopefully will take up the space under the tiller without extending too far forward in the cockpit. I'm trying to get a cooler that is just a few inches higher than the seats without interfering with steering. Can also serve double duty as a cockpit table. My tiller drags across the top of my transom also, so I may try to figure out a way to raise it 1/2" or so anyway.
Wing nut? I have a nylon lock nut plus four fender washers so there is 0 play in my rudder. It moves up and down with moderate effort but will stay at any angle.
I have the wing nut, but if I tighten it so that it holds the tiller of the transom, it hinders raising and lowering to move about the cockpit. I may try placing ss washers under the upper pintle to raise it, but I don't know how much room I have to raise it at the lower pintle.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Sid</i> <br />I have the wing nut, but if I tighten it so that it holds the tiller of the transom, it hinders raising and lowering to move about the cockpit. I may try placing ss washers under the upper pintle to raise it, but I don't know how much room I have to raise it at the lower pintle. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
On North Star, there is a difference in the pintle and gudgeon spacing with the lower pintle making contact with it's respective gudgeon, while the upper pintle and gudgeon still has a space of around 3/16". This means that the weight of the rudder is being carried entirely by the lower gudgeon.
The remedy this, and to also raise my rudder/tiller a little, I placed nylon washers between each pintle and gudgeon. I put one washer on the bottom and then used various sizes for the top to fill in the gap and make it so that each gudgeon was close to carrying half the load.
With the washers in place, the rudder/tiller was raised a little off the transom, the rudder load is now transferred evenly between each gudgeon, and finally the pintles are riding on the nylon washers instead of steel on steel.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I have a nylon lock nut plus four fender washers so there is 0 play in my rudder. It moves up and down with moderate effort but will stay at any angle.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
That's essentially how mine is set up. I usually tilt the tiller up and lash it to the side at anchor, which keeps the cockpit more open for fishing, bathing, etc.
On my old rudder, the bolt hole elongated (became oval-shaped) and that permitted the tiller to droop lower than normal. If yours is like that, you can fill it with fiberglass and re-drill the hole.
<center><b>From "Width of cockpit sole" to tiller height</b></center>
One thing I've seen done to adjust tiller height (I don't remember what model boat), is to add a screw into either the tiller, or rudder stock, or both, where the "down stops" meet. By using washers under the screw heads, the max down position of the tiller can be adjusted. I also encourage overdrilling and filling the pivot hole with epoxy, to cure existing elongation, prevent future wear, and protect the wood grain from water intrusion. My tiller pivot bolt now has fender washers, split washers, and a wingnut to adjust out play.
Now Leon, I know you probably have the most complete tool kit on your boat of any of us. Why a wing nut? I would think they would actually be harder to tighten to the torque we want than a locking nut. How big is that thing? Is it SS?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Why a wing nut?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">No profound reason, really. It's mostly just a habit I started on smaller boats. It's easy to adjust or remove with my fingers, no risk of dropping tools overboard. With a split washer on each end, it holds its adjustment reasonably well. The bolt and wingnut are stock size and stainless.
I don't carry a lot of tools when just daysailing -- too much weight, space, and I might need them more else where. I carry maybe one or two small tackle boxes except on longer trips.
My cure was similar to Leons. I made a shim, approximately 3/8” thick out of HDPE (high density polyethylene), a white, dense plastic, which can be purchased at a sign supply or plastic supply business. This stuff can easily be cut and shaped with conventional wood working tools (table saw, band saw, it drills really nice too). I then placed this shim on the area where the tiller contacts the rudder in the down position and epoxied the shim into place. With some shaping with a file and final sanding this modification visually, becomes part of the rudder. No more transom scraping. I also placed a piece of brass on the top side of the tiller, so the bottom of the traveler doesn’t do a number on my new varnish job.
On the cooler challenge, I did the insulating mod to the original. We use it for drinks only. In 90+ heat, two bags of ice will keep things cold for 3 days. I also attached a 2" piece of insulating foam to the undeside of the Teak lid. Fair winds. Todd Frye
While at the sporting goods store today, I saw the marine version of the Igloo Ice Cube square cooler and it was only $19.99. It had cup holders integrated in the lid and a compartment for keys, wallets, phones,...etc. It also had receptacles for the option fishing rod holders.
The only thing that was questionable was the cooler side thickness appeared thinner than your average cooler, but it looks like it might make a good fit under the tiller.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />While at the sporting goods store today, I saw the marine version of the Igloo Ice Cube square cooler and it was only $19.99. It had cup holders integrated in the lid and a compartment for keys, wallets, phones,...etc. It also had receptacles for the option fishing rod holders.
The only thing that was questionable was the cooler side thickness appeared thinner than your average cooler, but it looks like it might make a good fit under the tiller. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I picked up an Igloo Cube (no wheels) at WalMart a couple of weeks ago but the non-marine version for $12.49. It's 48 quart and will fit all the way back to the transom if so desired. My new tiller has quite a bit of rise in it plus it will pivot at the rudder so getting into the cooler is no problem. Don is right about the thickness of the sides though, they are about 1/2" and don't really provide enough insulation to keep ice very long. I put 10lbs in it friday evening and 7 more saturday afternoon and by sunday morning I had nothing but water. We had a very cool weekend with the highs on saturday in the mid 70's and on sunday in the upper 60's to 70 (we're usually in the mid 90's this time of year) so I'm not impressed by its insulating capabilities for long trips. It does work fine for day sails and maybe a short overnighter but I would use something else if I were going to be out any longer than that.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.