Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am still bringing my C25 back to life after neglect by former owner. I have new shroud covers---the kind with the slit running the full length. Putting them on isn't easy even with the split. Should they be heated with a heat gun or boiling water, etc to soften them? Or is there a special tool to spread the slit so you can work the shroud into the cover. I have had six sitting in the cockpit for a week and can only get about 6 inches on the shroud and then I give up 10 minutes later. Better to be sailing.!!!!! Help!
I know what you mean. I had some success in the past pressing the split side onto the shroud while applying thumb pressure to the other side.
I put all new standing rigging on this year and decided to leave the covers off. When I took the covers off the old rigging there was quite a collection of mildew and gunk under them and other than for looks I am unable to find another positive reason for keeping them on. Besides, covering up potential problems or damage to the shroud doesn't seem like a wise thing to do. As tight fitting as they were the sheet from my genoa would occasionally snag the forward shroud cover and pull it partly off causing a problem.
An expert opinion (not from me): My surveyor recommended I remove the shroud covers if I bought the boat--he said they only capture and retain contaminants, especially salt (in a saltwater environment). I did, and as others have reported, found an ugly mess underneath.
As for preventing chafe, just now I rubbed a paper towel, hard, against one of my old shrouds--back and forth about 50 times. No wear--it just flattened a little, as it would have if I rubbed it on glass. The split edge on the covers might chafe more than that.
Now, shroud rollers (large tubes with caps on both ends) might be another thing, especially on the forward lowers, to prevent them from catching the hitch on the clew when tacking. I've had just a couple of instances where I thought I could have used them.
I've been using 3/4" plastic conduit on my forward lowers for years. The fit is a little snug around the turnbuckles initially but once they wear in they work great to keep those pesky bowlines from hanging up. The grey-colored conduit looks faily decent as well.
I agree with the others that the tight fitting shroud covers cause more damage than they are worth. If you are trying to simply make older shrouds look pretty, they are probably due to be replaced. I did that with a C-22 I had a few years ago and the discoloration from the shrouds started to weep out of the split and stained the covers. So I was back to the original problem. If you want to protect your sail from wear, or tacking hang-ups, I've found that the 1" pvc idea works much better.
DaveC- A thought about your knots hanging up on the shrouds, you may be trying to sheet in the heads'l too fast. Try allowing the boat to make it's tack, set the mains'l and fall off just abit to allow the heads'l to fully cross over before you sheet it in. Then as it fills head-up again to your intended heading. With the 150, a little more time is needed to allow for this to happen (unless you have someone on the foredeck who can make the pass by hand). If you simply try to winch it across, you can damage your sheet, sail, shroud and/or even the chain stay. (just a thought )
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mark Maxwell</i> <br /> DaveC- A thought about your knots hanging up on the shrouds, you may be trying to sheet in the heads'l too fast. Try allowing the boat to make it's tack, set the mains'l and fall off just abit to allow the heads'l to fully cross over before you sheet it in. Then as it fills head-up again to your intended heading. With the 150, a little more time is needed to allow for this to happen (unless you have someone on the foredeck who can make the pass by hand). If you simply try to winch it across, you can damage your sheet, sail, shroud and/or even the chain stay. (just a thought ) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Thanks, Mark... I do that. But I use the infamous "cow hitch" on my genoa sheet, and it is, due to its shape, slightly more prone to haning up, especially when there's enough breeze to put some real pressure on the genny before the sheets have followed it across. As I said, it's only happened a couple of times in four seasons and I zigged upwind to free it. But I can see the possible value of PVC rollers on the forward lowers. (I don't have any plans to install them.)
I have schedule 40 1" pvc pipe about 5' long on the forward and upper shrouds. This works great for my 150. With the 110 all I needed was a couple of feet on the forward shrouds. They are extreamly easy to install and save sails etc. PVC pipe is much less $$ than the stuff you get at west marine and you can cut them to whatever length you desire.
Matt, I agree that PVC from Home Depot is the way to go if you insist on rollers (That's probably where West Marine buys theirs, then cuts it up, and triples the price). But I've found, like Dave, that if you'll let the foresail backwind on the tack, not only will it push the bow around, it will flip the clew, knot and all, to the lee side with no problems.
Another advantage to deleting the shroud covers is that my kids can't annoy me by flipping them up the shrouds to see how high they can make them go. They will, however, find something else!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.