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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Masthead

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jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/18/2004 : 00:29:55

I had to climb the mast last week after a halyard separated from the pull string I was using to replace it. Having not been up there before I decided I would check a diagram first to be sure I got it right. The diagram I found on this site did not match what I saw when I got up there.

Does anyone have a diagram for the masthead assembly for a '82 with external halyards? I want to sure I got it right.

JD

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 08:59:38

Hey JD

Here's the link to the C25 parts catalog on the brochures section of the website. http://www.catalina25-250.org/manbro/pictures/pc14.gif

The picture and parts description is how Catalina delivered C25s until internal halyards became stock during the 1986 model year.

How does yours differ from this??

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 15:42:10

Mine has two plastic sheaves, one on a forward pin and one behind it. There is a spacer that spans both pins but the sheaves are on the same side of the it. With two halyards only one can go over both sheaves. Is there supposed to be a second set on the other side of the spacer for the other halyard?

Edited by - on

Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 16:09:26

You found only two sheaves

Thats a set up for internal halyards (without the separator). For external you should have four sheaves separated fore and aft by a metal plate. Each sheave should only be as wide as the line you are using. Were yours as wide as the masthead with the separator resting on them? If so, someone replaced the masthead without replacing the sheaves. A new masthead comes with two large sheaves for the internal set up.

Edited by - on

jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 21:45:18

It appears there is room for two sheaves, one next to each existing sheave, although I didn't measure. Two one side of the spacer and two the other (fore and aft) which would provide two sheaves per halyard. That is why I am questioning the current set up. Unless one sheave should go aft on one side while the other sits fore on the other side of the spacer. If that is the case the halyard would go over the sheave and down the pin, which seems incorrect. The only thing that would make sense to me is a pair both fore and aft separated by the spacer or two sheaves per halyard.

That being the case I opted to run the mainsail halyard over the sheaves since I have to hoist that by hand. The jib halyard will have to ride over the pins only for now. At least I have the winch to crank that one up. Outside of that I will have to drop the mast in the Fall to make the necessary repairs since I can't disassemble the masthead while I my chair is hanging from it. Unless someone has another idea.

Edited by - on

Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 22:46:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The only thing that would make sense to me is a pair both fore and aft separated by the spacer or two sheaves per halyard.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

JD- That is correct. Your's is missing two sheaves. Maybe they broke or were sun damaged, but they should be there. Running over the pins will damage your halyards. Are they all rope or rope/wire

The entry and exit point of the halyard will rub on the cast portion of the masthead and cause even further damage to your halyard. I know you said this is a temporary setup, just don't be surprised when your halyards frey quickly.

If the pins are free (not corroded to the mast head) You should be able to lower the mast and replace the sheaves within an afternoon. They are not expensive and CD has them.

I wouldn't wait. Or atleast I wouldn't use that halyard. If you have the sail up and need to lower it in an emergency (Murphy's Law) it could become stuck and that could lead to damage to your's or someone elses boat.

Sail smart, be safe

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/18/2004 : 23:36:34

Call BelPat in the links area, get 4 new sheaves and go back up. There is nothing to replacing them and it involves pins that have nothing to do with holding the stick up.

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 : 09:18:33

Hi JD,

Follow Mark's advice. Replace the sheaves. This is easiest to do with the mast down......almost impossible to do with the mast up.

Mark is correct that there will be excessive chafe and wear on the halyard if you are not using sheaves.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 : 21:52:02

The jib halyard is rope/wire. Does that change the sheaves I need to use or any of the rest of the advice? Does it make it more or less imperative that I do this ASAP? Is the correct spacer metal or plastic? Do I have to go to CD for the parts or can I get them in West Marine?

JD

Edited by - on

Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 03:31:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The jib halyard is rope/wire. Does that change the sheaves I need to use or any of the rest of the advice?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes the sheave size for all rope halyard is different than the ones used for the rope to wire halyards. My advise stays the same except now the reasons have changed. The wire, if left to run over the pins only, will begin to break and frey. Leaving "meat hooks" along the outer braid. They will also "carve" into the casting, which may cause enough damage to the masthead to require replacement.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Does it make it more or less imperative that I do this ASAP?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I'd say about the same. Unless you just don't use the heads'l and sail cat rigged (mains'l only)

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is the correct spacer metal or plastic?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mine is aluminum. It has a hole for the forward pin but only rests on top of the aft pin.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Do I have to go to CD for the parts or can I get them in West Marine?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

WM has sheaves that will work, you just need to know the correct size. The nice thing about CD is that they have the exact size you need. The dimentions that you need to look at are: width, outside diameter, cup or groove size to fit rope or wire being used and pin hole size. The ones (from CD) for the wire halyards fit with no modification. However, the ones for all rope halyards, require a small amount of filing at the point the rope enters and exits the masthead.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The jib halyard is rope/wire.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Is your main halyard all rope? Do you know which style your masthead was sheaved for? This mixing of halyard types, makes me wonder if the sheaves were correct. If the wire was run over sheaves made for rope that may explain why/how they were broken. If the rope is run over sheaves made for wire, that fit is not good either. The rope will wear sooner and the sheave it's self will break along the walls of the groove. (rope will be too thick)

Please understand, I'm not trying to cause you alarm, or more work, I'm simply trying to answer your questions with some supporting info.

Edited by - Mark Maxwell on 08/20/2004 03:36:26

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 07:41:12

Take this opportunity to change over to all rope. Ever had the the wire thimble and rope knot get caught under a shroud tang? BelPat makes the better sheave product. I think enough of us have them to attest to that, there is no filling needed. The spacer comes from CD for a couple of dollars. Changing to rope was the first thing I did after sailing my boat for a few weeks. It is a safety issue for me. I single hand a lot and unfouling the halyards in a blow while trying to get my sails up or down was very dangerous. Call layline.com and talk to them about halyard for your boat.

Edited by - on

jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 11:09:57

My main halyard is rope, the jib halyard is rope/wire. The boat came with a roller for the jib, not a proper furler just a spool that attachs to the deck, the jib attaches to it and to the jib halyard. Not sure what it is called. Since the jib does not attach to the fore stay I figured the wire halyard would be stiffer than rope. Does this roller setup change the recomendation to go to a rope jib halyard? I want to order the parts ASAP but need to decide on what sheaves to order.

I plan on upgrading to a proper furler for next season, any recomendations? Thanks to everyone for their input.

JD

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 21:40:46

IMHO No, Modern rope is stronger and stretches less than wire. You should have a swivel at the top of the sail as well. It sounds like a dingy rig. Call Layline and talk all of this over with them, they are experts.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/21/2004 : 13:16:38

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2487604517&category=31281"]swivel on ebay[/url] (click on link)

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 08/21/2004 13:17:19

jdonahue
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2004 : 17:35:59

I got a swivel on the top of the jib. I will drop the mast sometime soon to add the sheaves. I'll order four and replace them all while I'm at it. I will also make the change to an all rope jib halyard. Thanks for the advice.

Is there a standard line diameter for the halyards? Do the sheaves only support that diameter or will there be choices.

JD

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2004 : 20:36:42

I use 1/4" I think the sheaves will go one size larger, ask BelPat. I use a halyard that is one step down from Spectra, what did layline suggest? I used http://www.layline.com/prodinfo.asp?number=UT14

Edited by - on

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