Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
In salt water, I chose not to do an "elegant" external connection. The newer Honda has a hardwired cable with O-terminals, so the cable must go with the engine when you remove it. I drilled a hole in the transom, covered it with a small rubber boot, and fed the cables into the quarterberth area where I mounted two terminal studs with wing nuts. The studs connect the motor to a cable that goes to an On-Off switch in the galley (reachable from the companionway), and from there to the battery. Since I only remove the engine once a year, disconnecting it in the aft end of the berth is no big deal. But it's not "elegant."
Mark, I have a Tohatsu 8HP mounted on the port side. It has permantly attached cables that stay with the motor. I ran a pair of wires ( #6 AWG is big enough)from the Positive and Negative buss bars on the back of the original switch panel to a pair of surface mount terminal posts (West Marine) mounted on the back wall of the port cockpit locker above and to the right of the fuel tank. I ran the motor wires in thru the cowl vent mounted on the port rear coaming and attached to the terminal posts. My fuel hose is also routed thru the vent. There is a fuse in the motor, but I have thought about adding a battery on/off switch a small mega fuse between the switch and the battery in the positive leed. You can usually find nice battery cables with attached terminals for little money on ebay. Search for cables,outboard.
Larry Knobel - 1980 C-25 #1657 Sailing Cayuga Lake,NY
My motor is an 8 hp Honda with electric start. I trailer quite a bit so I needed a way to easily disconnect the motor from the battery. I bought a flush mount plug from West Marine that I think is normally used as a plug in for a trolling motor. The male end on the motor leads fits into the plug then locks in place with a quater turn. It has an o-ring seal so once locked in place it's watertight. When not in use there's a cover to snap over the plug. I did have to drill a 1-1/8" hole in the transom.
It works well and could be considered "elegant", I think.
I agree with Frank and Lowell. My Evinrude 9.9 is connected over the transom to a trolling motor plug, then to a selector switch, and then to my two battery banks. The plug is mounted on the seat bulkhead just forward of the transom, starboard side. My only regret is mounting it too low. I occasionally bump into it with my foot. The plug is very strong and flexible so no damage has occurred however.
I don't disagree with those external connections for the folks sailing in fresh water lakes... I only suggest that, in salt water, external plugs can have a tough life--my boat came with one that was totally trashed--the PO didn't know it because the motor didn't have an electric starter. Similarly, I am fairly certain that if I ever intend to use my shore power connection on the outside of the coaming, I'll have to replace it, in which case I will move it to a less ridiculous location.
I mounted my plug on the back of the transom. Be aware that there are different kinds of trolling motor plugs. I used the Marinco twist lock plug as it has O ring seals, and I believe a higher amperage rating. I also sealed the end of the plug where the wire goes into it with several coats of liquid electrical tape.
I sail mostly fresh water, but with two trips to the keys behind me I have noticed absolutely no corrosion on the plug. Of course I keep the plug well greased.
This arrangement makes removing the motor easier (or as easy as a heavy Honda can be) and keeps the plug out of the way.
My 9.9Johnson has electric start ... an inelegant hole had been drilled through the transom ... I've thought about a trolling motor plug, the reality of the situation is thaat the only time it needs to be unplugged is when removing the engine. I don't plan to do that but once a year. The complication of a plug is that shouldd it become disengaged while the engine is running thee rectifier gets fried. That comment from the Evinrude/Johnson shop manual. That's not for me.
Here is the setup on my C250, but would work just as well on a C25. The plug locks in with a quarter turn so it won't fall out. It is a Marinco Trolling motor plug WM model 1422591 on page 646 of the 04 catalog.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.