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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have a scheme for lifting the boat 2-3 inches to paint under the bunks? My trailer has fixed bunks, not rollers. Will the hull strength permit applying a verticle jack first forward, then aft for a few hours each to paint. Alternately I would have to trail to a yard and hire a travel lift probably for a couple hundred dolars.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Steve, if you're gonna tell him to roll it back, don't forget to tell him to secure the tongue! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> When people start reading my mind, it makes me think I've been hanging around here too long!
The only way I have ever rolled the boat back is with the trailer connected to the tow vehicle's hitch, and that prevents the tongue from lifting when the boat rolls back. Some guys have disconnected the trailer from the tow vehicle and attached a come-along or similar device to a tree and used it to roll the boat back. I'm sure they're careful to balance or prop up the trailer in some way, but the thought of it scares the heck out of me.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">How do you roll the boat back on the rollers.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I lower the keel support, loosen the safety chain about a foot, loosen the trailer winch cable about a foot, and then put the tow vehicle in reverse and back up. Then apply the brakes suddenly. Repeat the procedure until the boat is back as far as you want it. Be sure your bow eye, winch cable and winch are in good mechanical condition. When you want to move it forward again, just winch it forward and raise the keel support. It's so easy to roll it back and forth that I do it for each coat of paint.
I have a fin keel and non roller bunks. I was thinking of drilling a series of holes on the bunk supports, raising it up 4 inches and strapping a 4X12 to the keel rest. Load the boat and drop the bunks one at a time to paint under them. This still leaves a bunch of stuff in the way of the keel, but not as much as normal. The two center bunks are normally at the lowest level necesitating the lift of an extra few inches. Do you as a group think that this will give me enough room to paint the bunk areas??
Dude, Here's the deal; Put the trailer someplace where you can put your truck 30ft out to the side of it. The Catalina 25 keel is mammoth with a huge flat bottom. You are going to tie your boat off to the hitch on your truck, (out thirty feet to the side for a nice low angle, less will work but you will be more confident with a lower angle). I would run a line from the bow, the primary winch and the stern. Now go to the other side of the boat and drop the bunks, paint reverse, repeat. This is how I used to paint my Spirit 23. It works well because so much of your weight is resting on the keel anyway and all you need to do is keep it pulled over to the side that still has the bunks up.
I've lifted my C25 using three hydraulic jacks and blocking... one jack went under the flat portion of the hull just forward of the keel trunk (on my swinger) and two jacks were positioned just aft of the keel trunk and set about halfway outboard for stability. Short sections of 4x12 spanned the trailer frame to serve as a base for the jacks themselves.
At each lifting point I used pieces of 2x12 about 12-16" long as lifting pads... with some scrap carpet between the wood and the hull as a cushion. Scrap metal plates between the wood and the jack prevented the jack head from crushing into the wood.
The hull on my boat is nearly 3/4" thick at those points and there didn't appear to be any flex at all. Not that you'd want to jump around in the boat too much with it like that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by seastream</i> <br />Frank, how do you paint the bottom of the keel supported by the cradle? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by seastream</i> <br />Frank, how do you paint the bottom of the keel supported by the cradle? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I cut my 98% of my keel cradle off as the keel was only touching in one small spot.
My trailer has rollers so I don't know if my method will work with your setup. With the trailer wheels blocked on level ground I lowered the front of the trailer as far as it would go. I then built a stand out of 4x4's that fit tight to the hull just aft of where the keel is attached. With the stand in place I cranked the front of the trailer up. As the front of the trailer goes up the back comes down but the boat rests on the stand. It gave me just enough room to paint between the rollers and the hull. I did the opposite to paint the front. When doing the front you will probably have to loosen the winch line a little to let the trailer settle away from the bow. My boat is a wing keel. I was wasn't able to get to the bottom of the entire wing but I got a good protion of it. It's pretty safe because the trailer is always under the boat.
Here's how the pro did it when I had my bottom painted. Park the trailer on a hard stand, block the hull fore and aft, loosen the nuts supporting the bunks and drop the bunk board assembly away from the hull. If blocked properly both sides can be dropped at once.
ONce the hull is painted, raise the bunks and retighten the locking nuts. The critical factor is "hardstand". You cannot do this on your lawn. The blocking material will sink, making it inlikley that the bunks will fit under the boat properly. Secondarily, the paint dust and new paint residue will kill your grass.
I bought an adjustable house jack and placed a 4"x4" (horizonatlly) under the aft "hull keel" and lowered the (in my case) roller racks. Used the same hardware up front (placing the jack under the bullkhead.)
It's easier to lower the rollers or bunks than it is to raise the boat.
<font color="red"><b>Just make sure the jack is centered and vertical before to place any weight on it! </b></font id="red">
House jacks sound better then trying to fit blocks under the hull. Two questions though. Did you use one jack in the stern and one in the bow, and balance the boat or would two in the stern be better? Was there a need to install wedges in the stern support to account for the shape of the hull? I'll need to gather the materials to try this and I want to have the right stuff on hand when I start.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.