Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK, OK, I admit it, I still have one. But it's for our dinghy, 1990 Evinrude 9.9 short shaft.
I replace the spark plugs every time we use it, which is once very six months.
I know the old sawhorse about the amount of time that a piece of mechanical equipment gets used is directly proportional to its ability to work.
Our problem is hard starting when it's cool out. Took it up to the Delta this summer, and in the 90 heat it was fine. Once we got back down closer and into to the cooler SF Bay, it takes 60 (yup, that's right 60) pulls to get it going once it's cooled off, overnight. Once it first starts, it's just fine and dandy. Fires right up.
Bought the motor about 5 years ago at a swap meet for a good price, had it checked out at the Outboard Motor Shop in Alameda (before they were bought out by Sea Power), and everything was fine then. Haven't done anything "bad" to it.
Any "historians" out there who know these critters and can help? Any idiosyncrasies with 1990 Evinrudes?
Stu
Stu 1986 C34 #224 "Aquavite" Cowichan Bay, BC Maple Bay Marina (formerly San Francisco) (formerly C25 #2459 "Capricorn Two")
You can check the power pack strength by holding one of the plug wires as you crank...if it stops your heart it isn't weak...etc, etc. Val on Calista # 3936
If the spark is a dull yellowish orange it's weak. If its bright white/blue its strong. That use to give me an indication that my coils were going bad when I was able to work on cars. Don't know if the same philosophy works on outboard power packs.
I'm beginning to get the idea: it is getting the spark to the plugs. Can you describe the "power pack" in more detail? I pull the cord, it makes the thingy rotate and should make the sparks fly! Is there something more specific inside that's accessible and can/needs to be replaced, or is it more complicated which would tend to recommend taking it in with that diagnosis and requesting a repair?
I had the exact same problem with my 2 '96 stroke Johnson, it wouldn't start cold without an enormous amount of cranking but after it warmed up it would start instantly. I brought it in to my mechanic and he replaced the power pack. Since then, I've had no problem and the engine starts immediately. Apparantly the power pack had enough "oomph" to ignite the gas in a warm cylinder but not in a cold one.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.