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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm getting ready to repower with the Honda and a Catalina Direct bracket. The question is should the outboard be fastened to the bracket with bolts and the clamps with a cable. Pros and cons of method considering security, travel, overkill or damage to hardware. Am using suggestions for everythings else but bracket doesn't have enough width to use bolt holes in outboard mount without modification. Outboard has remote hookups including shift and throttle.
I just have the old two stroke 9 horse or so. When I rmemeber I wrap the bike lock around the handle and the motor brackett. If I could find the key I might even lock it. I do tie a lanyard from motor to brackett. The old British seagull Had that advice printed on every page around the boarder. Had that one till someone snipped the lock and took it our of my parents yard. I kind of go by the assumption that a lock if present will keep the honest person away, the dishonest person will take it anyway. Same reasoning I don't lock the convertable. Rather not deal with a cut up top, way too expensive.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sweetcraft</i> <br />bracket doesn't have enough width to use bolt holes in outboard mount without modification. Outboard has remote hookups including shift and throttle. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Just wondering, why did you buy an outboard with remote controls for a Catalina 25? I was under the impression that the remote control models are meant for installation on powerboats with consoles and steering wheels. And what horsepower is this outboard. that it is too wide to fit the bracket mount plate?
As for bolting the motor bracket to the base plate, it is a good idea as long as you have determined that you are willing to trailer the boat with the motor on the bracket. If you want to remove the motor and haul it in the back of your truck when trailering, don't bolt it to the bracket. If you do bolt it, it is more secure against accidently coming off, and the bolting will at least slightly deter theives, who generally go after whatever can be stolen with the least effort and most speed.
You know those bars that supposedly lock your outboard? I've had several of the locks freeze up from the salt water and had to pry them off. It takes me a minute or so. A determined thief could beat that time I bet.
If memory serves me, my Mercury has carriage bolt holes (square) on the outboard's motor mount, but I've yet to drill a corresponding hole in the motor mount pad for a bolt.
I bolt my motor on the bracket and use a cable lock too.
Bolting removes any worries about the clamping screws coming loose at a real bad time and is a (minor) theft deterrent. If you used left-handed bolts with a torx or allen head you might be able to really slow them down.
The cable lock can be cut in a few minutes, but it will slow a thief down and might encourage them to look for an easier target.
I haven't found bolting/unbolting the motor for trailering to be a real big issue, in my experience, it only takes an extra minute or two to get the bolts in and out of the mounting plate. (Your mileage may vary.)
Larry, I don't know what Jim's reason was for buying remote controls, but in our case it was essential. Judy is only 4' 10" tall and, with the O/B in the down position, was unable to start it using the pull cord. Now she just turns a key and away we go! (I did have to bolt a crossbar on the turning bracket so we can use it to turn the motor in tight places.) Derek
My 6 hp Suzuki is close to 20 years old and is not locked or bolted to the bracket, although it is insured. I suppose I'd put a simple lock on it if I had a newer, more expensive engine (to prevent opportunity theft), but it also wouldn't cost much more to increase the amount of insurance on it.
when you tighten down those handles that turn the mounting screws on your outboard, notice that there are holes in the handles. After you get them tight, tie a string between the holes. It prevents them from ever getting lose. Suppose you could use a wire tie.
I have a bike lock and cable from my OB to the stern pulpit.
Theft has never been a problem at our marina. Bad people do not target 25 year old Catalina 25s right next to $75000 Blackman 26 sportfishers and across from $65000 Parker pilothouse offshore sportfishers.
My Tohatsu 9.9 motor's handles have holes in the end. If you align them pointing inward a lock can be run thru both holes to lock down the motor. It wouldn't stop a thief but it will slow them down. Also mine has remote start and throttle/shift mounted on the angled edge of the starboard cockpit locker (C250). Makes docking/undocking easier. No gymnastistics needed to shift direction like some configurations I've seen. I have taken the manual shifter arm (non fuctional) and bracket off the motor to give it more turning radius. It's stored in the bilge in case it is needed.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.