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preparing for single-handing

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 20:46:47

Q - I don't have a tiller pilot, should I turn off the motor when I raise the sails?

A - In light air I'll shut the motor down and fully raise/tilt it. In heavier air I leave it down (but shut off) until I get the boat sailing and trimmed.

Q - The boom is supported by a "pigtail" hanging off the backstay.

A - I really advocate a topping lift. It's a CHEAP addition that will enhance your single handing a lot. If you leave the pigtail attached, you can take off sailing while putting all sorts of bad strain on your backstay. If you disconnect the pigtail without a topping lift, you're dumping the boom on top of the coachroof.

I always single hand around the bay with the 110... visibility is so poor with the 150 that I don't use it without a second pair of eyes on the boat that can look around it... too much traffic, markers, kayakers etc. Last thing you want to do is run into something/somebody.

If you want to build your singlehanding confidence, just take crew along... and have them DO NOTHING but sit and enjoy the cruise. You do everything from start to finish. After a couple times out that way you'll feel comfy doing it on your own.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5913 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 10:56:34

When I raise my sails singlehanded, I raise the mainsail first. (My boat has a topping lift, but none of the control lines are led aft to the cockpit.) To raise the mainsail, I put the boat on a course dead to windward with the motor running just barely fast enough to maintain reasonable steerageway, and set the tiller tamer amidships. Then I go forward and raise the mainsail, adjust the luff tension and put light tension on the boom vang. (While going forward, I keep my weight as close to the centerline of the boat as possible, to keep the boat from wandering off its course dead to windward.) Now that the mainsail is up, the boat will sail slowly on the mainsail alone, and you don't need the engine anymore. I turn off the engine and raise it clear of the water, bear off the wind onto a course about halfway between a beam reach and a beat, and set the tiller tamer to hold that course. The tiller tamer will hold the boat on that course fairly reliably, giving you enough time to go forward and raise the jib.

While you're raising the sails, always keep a sharp eye out for other boats in the vicinity.

If you have roller furling, and an electronic auto pilot, and your control lines are led aft to the cockpit, it will make everything easier, but you can get by just fine with hank-on sails, factory stock control lines, a tiller tamer and a topping lift.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 12:22:32

I would feel much better about leaving the line runs stock with all rope halyards.

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 13:57:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I would feel much better about leaving the line runs stock with all rope halyards.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Why?

The only time I need to touch the wire part of the halyard is when it has no tension at the dock, anchor or mooring, when attaching it to the head cringle.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 14:13:13

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RichardG
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I would feel much better about leaving the line runs stock with all rope halyards.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Why?

The only time I need to touch the wire part of the halyard is when it has no tension at the dock, anchor or mooring, when attaching it to the head cringle.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

last fall when I got my boat, it had rope to wire halyards. The wind blows hard quite often here. The first several times I went out and often until I pulled for the winter, I would have to go to the mast and "work" the halyard to get the wire thimble at the rope knot, un-wedged from under the shroud tangs. I found this to be very dangerous as I was single handing. I made a promise to myself that the first thing I would do on the hard would be to change over to rope halyards. I have not had a single halyard foul since.

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 14:38:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The boom is supported by a "pigtail" hanging off the backstay.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

John, I think it would be very helpful (and cheap) to install a topping lift. It doesn't need to be anything fancy, just a line of appropriate length tied at one end to the masthead and at the other to the end of the boom. I also have a pigtail, but it only gets used to hold up the Sunshower and is much less convenient for holding the boom out of the cockpit than a permanent topping lift. For calculating the appropriate length of the topping lift, raise the main and fully tighten the mainsheet -- when installed, the line should be slightly loose (i.e. not too short to interfer with sailshape, but not so long to let the end of the boom to drop too much when you lower the main.

I still believe most cruisers (non-racers) of boats like a C25 would enjoy the luxery of a tillerpilot, even for cruises of moderate duration on a inland lake or river; but if you like to steer all the time, then clearly you would not. Budget considerations may also dictate your choice. As others have said, there are other cheaper, non-electronic self-steering setups (Tiller Tamer, Helm Handler, bungies, etc.), but I don't think they are quite as convenient or versatile.

Also, Steve Milby's advise is fantastic (as usual).

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 14:50:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I would have to go to the mast and "work" the halyard to get the wire thimble at the rope knot, un-wedged from under the shroud tangs<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If your lines were not led aft (i.e. stock), you would already be at the mast when raising the main and would quickly learn how to do so without catching the thimble on the shroud tangs. It makes sense that aft run halyards benefit from being all-rope.

Edited by - on

John J.
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 14:51:27

Next Question: Is the only purpose of a topping lift to support the boom prior to raising the mainsail, or does it serve some other purpose,(other than the obvious use as a lifeline for novice single-handers to grab as they are falling into the water)?
Next Question; Is the roller furling a fairly easy installation or does it require a certain amount of technical expertise which I freely admit I'm short on?

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2004 : 15:25:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RichardG
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I would have to go to the mast and "work" the halyard to get the wire thimble at the rope knot, un-wedged from under the shroud tangs<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If your lines were not led aft (i.e. stock), you would already be at the mast when raising the main and would quickly learn how to do so without catching the thimble on the shroud tangs. It makes sense that aft run halyards benefit from being all-rope.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You are mostly right, my boat did have the two halyards led back last fall. I still think it would be difficult to have a headsail downhaul and keep the thimble under control. You would need to keep tension on the halyard while you hauled the downhaul. It seems that would be tough to do even at the mast.

Edited by - on

bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2004 : 11:54:50

Hey everyone - this topic has been very helpful and inspiring! I bought my C25 in May after taking lessons and getting certified the US Sailing way. Ever since buying "Wind Dancer" I've been thinking 'I need this' or I need that' to go it alone. After reading this yesterday I went out and did it. Thank you for inspiring the confidence in me to do it.

I went out about 4pm. Everytime I pointed into the wind to raise the main (in gthe marina harbor) another boat or two would round the bend coming into the marina. I wanted LOTS of space for doing this the first time. After about 3 tries I had enough time to get it up. Then I reset and raised the jib. The Halyards are at the mast, and since I was rushed by the traffic the lines were a mess but I was sailing. Once I got on a good close reach I tied off the tiller and cleaned up the lines. From there everything was fine. Winds were pretty light so it was a good conditions for the first time.

After dodging a few freighters I decided to go back in - plus the fog was coming in and it was getting late. Once I got back in the marina I hove-to and put on the fenders and lowered the main. I kept the jib up and sailed into the slip. It was great fun.

Do all you other single-handers use a tether all the time or just when you have to go forward? (I forgot mine - left it in the car. I'll remember that next time for sure).

Bill B
Wind Dancer C25/FK/SR/4036

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2004 : 12:23:30

I always wear a pfd when leaving the cockpit while sailing single handed. The mainsail should always be raised first as close to dead into the wind as possible. The jib should be raised after setting a course slightly off the wind. When lowing sail, I run a course downwind so that the genny is depowered bieng somewhat blanketed by the main. The main is of course, lowered when back in irons. I usually leave my outboard running; sometimes in gear or very low revs, or at times, in neutral. I've found that in confused seas, running the outboard in gear, slightly turned to starboard or port, helps maintain the course I need to raise the main.

I tie off the tiller with two 1/4" lines attached on either side of my pushpit. The lines are wrapped around the tiller with loops consisting of rolling hitches so I can adjust the tiller as needed.

It's very important to make sure that your lines are straightened out so they don't tangle or snag if you need to lower sail in a hurry, and to maintain some tension on the halyards so they don't fly free and leave the mastead rollers or snag on the stays.

I have hanked on sails with lines leading to the mast and the process for raising the main takes about 1/2 minute. Same for the jib.

This is they way I've been going about it without problems since '83 but I'm sure others have their own favorite ways that work well for them.

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2004 : 13:11:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is the only purpose of a topping lift to support the boom prior to raising the mainsail, or does it serve some other purpose<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If it's adjustable, you can shorten it to loosen the leech of the mainsail. While I have been basically satisfied with my non-adjustable topping lift due to its great KISS properties, I've considered making it adjustable. Under what sailing conditions is it shortened, and what specific benefit could I reasonably expect (i.e. what amount of additional boat speed, all other things being equal)? Does it have any other uses?

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is the roller furling a fairly easy installation <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Regarding the CDI furler, while I've not done a full installation, I replaced the lower drum unit, which was reasonably easy. I understand the key to installing the extrusion part is cutting it to the correct length. In any case, I would think that recruiting a helper would be beneficial. Also, the guy who runs the company seems to be helpful and readily available for advice via telephone. Further, your jib may need some work by a sailmaker to make it work with a furler.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2004 : 14:19:12

John: I, too, had a semi-permanent smile after my first sail with my roller furler--probably mostly from rolling up the sail (while it was filled and under way--actually the best way to do it).

Given that the furler is probably the biggest investment and involves the most effort to install of the various mods discussed here, you could, in the short term, add a dousing line for the jib with the same hardware you will use for the furling line: a small block clamped to a pulpit stanchion, a couple of small swivel blocks shackled to lifeline stanchion bases, and a little cam cleat on the coaming. This will help you get the jib all the way (or 95%) down, even in a strong breeze, which can try to push it back up if you're not on the foredeck. The only holes in the boat are for the cam cleat.

For the dousing line, position the forward block as close to the forstay as possible and use a small snap shackle to attach the line (as small as you can find) to the first hank (not the head of the jib)--that prevents pulling the head over sideways and jamming the top hank. When you choose, buy, and install the furler, you can use the block on the pulpit to establish the lead angle to the roller to help the line to wind evenly on the drum. Then the furling line runs back the same way as the dousing line.

Another very minor thing I'm doing now... I don't have self-tailing winches (like the monsters Jim B. has), so I'm installing some cam cleats for the sheets. But the problem is the angle from the winches, which will pull the sheet out of the cam. I decided that the KISS solution is to position the cams so the I can hook the sheet under one horn of the standard cleat (AFTER trimming) and then snap it into the cam. That makes easy setting and releasing of the sheets when doing single-handed tacks.

BTW, the tabernacle is apparently mounted differently on the various vintages of the C-25. Some are screwed into the compression post--mine is bolted fore and aft of the post. Catalina Direct's base plate has holes for one of those configurations, but not for mine... After removing the tabernacle (and cleaning up all the goop), I took the tabernacle and plate to a shop and had them drill two new holes in the plate--it was much to heavy for my equipment.

Lots of ideas... Lots of options... Lots of fun!

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/28/2004 00:37:44

jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2004 : 12:04:11

John J.,

"Is the only purpose of a topping lift to support the boom prior to raising the mainsail, or does it serve some other purpose,(other than the obvious use as a lifeline for novice single-handers to grab as they are falling into the water)?"

Yes, an adjustable topping lift supports the boom, but it does it anytime you release the main halyard, like when you reef or douse the main. In addition, you can trim the sail shape. When you need to spill the wind from the head by increasing twist, you raise the topping lift. This is very important to me because I have a lot of weather helm, and have just learned this trick to decrease heel. (I have the topping lift line led aft to the cockpit.)

"Next Question; Is the roller furling a fairly easy installation or does it require a certain amount of technical expertise which I freely admit I'm short on?"

If you can follow instructions and can use simple hand tools you can install a CDI FF4 like I did. We didn't even drop the mast. The system comes with good instructions. Just plan to do it on a hot day, so the luff extrusion (long plastic thingy that goes on the forestay that the sail slides into) can flatten out, since it comes rolled up tight. It took just a few hours.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958
SF Bay

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2004 : 08:29:13

My short list of singlehanding necessities:
1. Roller furling
2. Self-tailing winches
3. Tiller pilot
4. GPS and VHF on swing mount, accessible from inside and outside the cabin
5. Lazy jacks
6. 5-rung swim ladder to replace the inadequate factory 4-runger.

Edited by - on

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