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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Teak finishes

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gmcdent
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/12/2004 : 23:16:49

I just used a teak "sealer" this year and liked the results, but I would like that deep shiny look without all the work that seems to go with it. Has anyone tried the product by Bristol--- I believe its a polyurethane. They say guaranteed for five years. Cost is $52/ quart, but supposedly it pays for itself by not having to treat the brightwork for so many years.

George C. on At Last

Edited by - on

MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 08:55:25

I used Pam cooking spray last time I refinished. Took about 5 seconds to apply and looks great, for now. Cost just a couple of bucks.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 09:49:06

Learn to love natural teak, I have. As long as the splinters are sanded off it's all good. I never treated my decks at my past houses either.

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 11:40:45

Hi George,

I applied Bristol Finish eighteen months ago. The POs used teak oil for the sixteen years of their ownership, but the last PO had let the brightwork go untouched for the last five years of his ownership. Therefore, when I purchased her the teak was grey and beginning to split pretty badly, especially the tops of the handrails.

I applied teak cleaner and brightener and spent four days sanding all the brightwork using an orbital sander and a sanding block, and progressively moving from 60 grit to 220 grit sandpaper. (Applying the cleaner and brightener before sanding was a wasted exercise, and I recommend spot treating after sanding.) When the sanding was complete, the brightwork was extremely smooth and a beautiful light tan. I had chosen Bristol specifically to retain the light tan finish that I prefer, as well as for the "five year" claim.

After taping all adjacent surfaces with 3Ms blue painting tape the night before, I mixed up the Bristol using the recommended amount of slowing agent for the temperature and humidity forecasted for that day. Bristol Finish allows you to apply multiple coats without sanding in between, another distinct advantage over other products. I was able to apply seven consecutive coats in one day by starting early and waiting a little over one hour between coats. The resulting finish was looking really good and I was thrilled with what I had acheived. However...

I ran into some problems at the end of the day, and eighteen months later have developed some more. Some are easier to avoid than others:

I completed this project in May, that is at the end of the rainy season in Oklahoma, and the moisture content of the unfinished teak ended up being substantially higher than I expected. Application day began, and was forecasted to remain, with dense cloud cover and stable temperatures around 70 degrees. Everything was going perfectly until I began the sixth application at around three in the afternoon, when the cloud cover disappeared, the temperature began rising quickly and the sun began beating down on the brightwork; even though I had erected a boom tent.

As I was applying the sixth and seventh coats, little varnish bubbles began to form on every surface that had the sun shining directly on them. This was caused by the moisture in the wood evaporating and trying to escape from the open pores underneath the partially dried varnish. Of course, there wasn't anything that I could do to prevent or stop the process at that point.

This occurred on a Sunday afternoon and I was required to leave that night. I let the cribboards dry for five hours after the final coat before closing up the boat and heading home. Upon my return the next weekend, I found small, barely noticable pockmarks on all the surfaces, as a result of the bubbling. Also, I noticed that the finish on one of the handrails had turned cloudy, obviously a result of dew formation on the not completely dry varnish after my departure the previous Sunday. Finally, I discovered the bottom two cribboards completely welded shut, which required taking a sharp knife to the seams and slightly marring the otherwise perfect finish.

All in all, however, I was very pleased that summer with the results and the appearance of the finish. Eighteen months later, I'm not as pleased. Through this past winter and spring, water wicked up under the varnish everywhere that the brightwork touches an adjacent surface. Unfortunately, this is an issue that was identified by Practical Sailor after I had completed the project. The wicking has caused the varnish to separate from the wood, although it remains intact, along all those adjacent surfaces resulting in a yellow candle wax appearance. The only solution to this problem is to completely remove all the wood and completely seal all the surfaces before reinstallation.

This past winter I refinished my tiller, which I keep covered, with West Marine's Skipper's Varnish (now called Admiral's Varnish). This is also a clear varnish that allows multiple applications, every 24 hours, without sanding in between. My tiller turned out beautifully and I am very pleased with how the product is holding up. However, the tiller had already been finished (low moisture content), was finished in the garage, complete sealed, and remains covered. Although, I intend to begin applying the same product to the exterior brightwork once per visit after completing some required prep work. The Cetol proponents may win me over yet.

Edited by - on

clayC
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 12:29:03

I have just finished removing every piece of teak from the outside of my boat and plan to finish with cetol. so far it looks wonderful. I am finishing both sides I hope that will keep any water from getting to the wood. It looks so good I am thinking of getting inside and hitting all the wood there. natural teak is ok but I am really enjoying this off season project.

ClayC

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At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 16:37:39

IMHO, old/aged natural teak does not look natural, it looks uncared for and neglected. I thought about leaving it alone, but could not stand to look at it. Three coats of cetal usually lasts two years...with the boat sitting out all year uncovered. Plus, it's a good project and way to stay out of trouble for a while.

Edited by - on

gmcdent
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 19:17:13

JB ,

Thanks for the detailed description of your situation. It gets very humid in CT but if I can do the Bristol in the spring when the humidity is low, maybe it will be OK. I am concerned that the grab rails and "frame" around the companionway would get the yellow look and separation near the fiberglass. Thanks again for your very helpful email..

Edited by - on

gmcdent
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2004 : 19:18:55

Clay and "at Ease" Thank you also. Sounds like Cetol is the way to go

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2004 : 01:10:11

One key characteristic I have read about Cetol is that it is "permeable"--allowing vapor pressure from the wood to pass through without separating the finish from the surface. Another characteristic to which I can attest is that, as a "soft" finish, if it's damaged or worn in a spot, you can sand the area gently (or scrub it lightly with a Scotch pad) and touch it up--the result will be smooth. If a hard finish like polyurethane is chipped or cracked, you'll generally have to remove it and re-finish. I don't know about Bristol Finish...

I don't remember the exact process, and am not home where I can read the instructions, but I recall applying several coats of Cetol in a day. My initial four coats took no more than two days. I had removed all of the exterior pieces except the "wings" next to the companionway (which are pegged). I don't expect to ever have to remove it again--a light coat every year or two and occasional touch-ups on worn spots (which barely takes a minute) should be all it needs.

My experience and observations with "natural" (untreated gray) teak is that it deteriorates and eventually cracks and then breaks as the heat "pumps" the oil out, sun breaks it down, the softer part of the grain deteriorates, and mildew develops in the voids. How many years it takes depends on the climate and exposure, but curved (stressed) hand rails are especially vulnerable, as are hatchboards made of several glued pieces. See how many gray hatchboards and bent handrails you see that are cracked and broken in any marina.

Besides that, my gut says that when I walk through a marina, the boats that stand out to my eye are those with finished brightwork. It doesn't have to be furniture-quality finish--just a nice color satin that makes the boat look cared for and adds a nice highlight. I get many comments on how nicely my boat is maintained, and the brightwork is not the meticulously finished, but it's finished. (The other three C-25s in the club are not.) But that's just my taste.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/14/2004 01:13:19

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