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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Attaching Handrail to Overhead

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B.Jones
1st Mate

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39 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/25/2004 : 09:30:45

Any suggestions on attaching a teak handrail to the overhead to assist with getting in and out of the V-berth? It has to be secure enough to hold my 210 lbs while pulling myself in and out. Could I just use 5200 and a couple of screws into the overhead or would I need to bolt through to the deck surface? Could I fiberglass a piece of wood to the overhead and then attach the handrail to the new piece of wood? Any help here would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bruce
"BellaSera"
'83 #3538 TR/FK

Edited by - on

PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 10:00:32

Just a thought. You might try to coordinate your handrail below with something on deck. Say, a stand up block for example. That way you could put a teak backing plate on deck with the fitting and secure the handrail to that from below. Maybe some variation of that idea. I don't think screwing directly into the overhead would be a long lasting solution.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 10:13:12

I've pondered this issue myself... I think grab handles mounted high on each side of the bulkheads may work well. They will be easier to install, and less likely to become a head knocker.

If you're going overhead, you might get by with epoxying a piece of 3/4" teak to the ceiling and then use some hefty wood screws through it and partway into the overhead sandwich. Of course, the really 'skookum' way to attach the grab handle is to through-bolt... which means you have to put backing under the screws up there and seal them to prevent water penetration.

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lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 17:51:55

I would exhaust every other alternative before through through-bolting, for the following reasons:
1. Every additional hole in the deck is one more place for water to penetrate and cause dry-rot in the core.
2. Putting hardware on the foredeck reduces the available space you can walk on.

I would suggest one way of through bolting that would give you benefits both above and below deck: Match the holes for your handrails in the V-berth with the mounting holes for a pair of 6" or 8" cleats. I have often wished that my boats had more cleats up on the foredeck, especially when rafting up with other boats. This way, one set of holes does double duty. But think long and hard about placement of those cleats-will they cause unforseen problems like snagging of jib sheets? Will they really be useful in the location you are planning? Will they cause interference with crew movement and operations on the foredeck? The foredeck on the Catalina 25 isn't very large to begin with, and a good part of it is already taken by the anchor locker hatch, so your choices in placement of any additional deck hardware are kind of limited.

Edited by - on

eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 20:55:17

I think Paul and Larry had good suggestions: mount something else on top using the same holes. I wish I'd had bigger cleats during Ivan, so I would vote for that solution. One other thought: consider a loop of webbing inside as the handle so you can't bang your head.

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 22:02:35

Hi Bruce,

Have you decided where you would like to put the handrail? It seems to me that if you want to use it to pull yourself in and out of the V-berth, it wouldn't likely be in a good place if it were through-bolted to a cleat on the deck, or visa versa. In other words, an extra cleat is a good idea, but I don't think you'd want one in the center of the foredeck where you'd stub your toes on it, catch the jib or sheets, etc. (as others have noted). I also concur that it would be nice if you could install the handrail without drilling any holes through the deck.

So, I'm wondering if epoxy alone would be strong enough to bond a handrail to the ceiling of the V-berth without having to drill holes ... I just don't know. You could try it with epoxy (or "Gorilla Glue," or equivalent) and see if it holds ... if not, then you can through-bolt it.

I recently read a good technique in "Good Old Boat" for holding things in place while epoxy cures. First you mix the epoxy and apply it to the surface to be glued, then simply use a hot glue gun to put a little blob of hot glue on the piece, then stick the piece to the surface and let the epoxy cure. You might try something like that and see if it works ... 'just a thought ...

Good luck!

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2004 : 23:24:40

I vote against epoxy, especially with no other fasteners. If it doesn't work it's going to damage something when things come apart--it could be the gelcoat, or if you're lucky, just the teak handrail. Also, the oil in teak might prevent a really good bond, even with epoxy.

Thru-bolts... Hmmmmmm... We already have plenty of holes in the boat--what's four more or so?

I'd think hard about Clam's idea--putting them on the bulkheads.

How about a "bridge" to form a main-cabin queen-sized bed? Easy in, easy out.

Edited by - on

B.Jones
1st Mate

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39 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2004 : 09:52:17

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm not sure if I want to put any additional items on the deck just to correspond to the thru-hulls for the handles, but that does seem like the best solution if the handles are used.
Eric - I like the idea of a loop of webbing mounted somewhere at the aft end of the V-berth to use for getting in and out.
Dave - This is my second attempt at using the V-berth for the sleeping area. I did have an arrangement to provide a big bed in the main cabin but am going to give the V-berth one more chance. I prefer not to have the full cabin taken up by the bed.
Thanks again to all.
Bruce
"BellaSera"
'83 #3538 TR/FK

Edited by - on

PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2004 : 10:40:18

I think the webbing is an excellent idea. It could run clear athwart ships and be attached
where the deck joins the hull. I have put in some extra cleats about a third of the way back from the bow at that joint, so it can be done. Add a fitting or just thru bolt something to hold the strap. No head knocker, and handhold available from all positions.

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Catbird
Deckhand

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20 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2004 : 12:44:00

Aside from the post a week or two ago, does anyone have a design for a bridge to make a sleeping arrangement in the main cabin? I have a wing keel with longitudinal settees. Pictures would be great, too.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2004 : 16:15:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Catbird
 Aside from the post a week or two ago, does anyone have a design for a bridge to make a sleeping arrangement in the main cabin? I have a wing keel with longitudinal settees. Pictures would be great, too.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I use the table sections as a start. I took all of the hardware (leg too) except for the piano hinge, off the table sections. I also took the table hardware off the bulkhead. I then copied the larger of the two table sections in 3/4" plywood. I made two of the new large sections. With the original table sections and one of the new sections I can have a double bed

With the second new section as well I can have a queen size bed.
The first new section sets behind the original table sections against the bulkhead. You would never notice it unless I showed it to you. The second section sets under the starboart settee because there is no accessable storage under there and neither it nor the cushions have ever moved while sailing. I sail hard.

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