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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by existentialsailor</i> <br />Al, Frank, I read the article in Mainsheet and that's exactly why I covered her, to be able to work under the cover, though as I just said, I haven't accomplished much. Thanks for using my picture as an example.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> You have been a great addition to the site, I hoped you would like it. The real secret to winter success is BRING IT HOME!
You have a special problem with the pines that unfortunately only moving your boat may solve. I have a similar problem in the spring under the maple trees. The little "helicopter" seeds fall on the boat and leave a nasty stain that is difficult to get up. In the fall it's the wet leaves. Perhaps a combination of Frank's method and mine - wood frame/tarp over the cockpit area and tarps with noodles over the rest, would work for you. My tarp survived unscathed with two feet of snow and ice on it thus far this winter. If you don't drape it over the life lines the force of the falling snow will be directed down and away from the support structure.
Al, I asked that specific question about the stains from the maple tree "butterflies" and someone responded that the ultra violet rays from the sun would take care of those stains and I believe the sun did last late last spring.
Look at the photo of Frank's boat. Notice how high he elevated his mast under the cover. The slope is so steep that snow can't pile up very deeply on it before it slides off. That's one of the keys to making a cover work. If the slope is steep enough, you won't have to rake it off.
The other key is to support the tarp just enough to prevent gusty winter winds from ripping it to shreds. I use the polypro lines because they're quick and easy to put on, after you string them between two pieces of PVC pipe. Then I put an old, tattered tarp over that, because it provides some additional support. Then I put a new tarp over all. If you don't provide some support to the new tarp, the wind will whip it so violently that it will rip out the grommets, and it won't last the winter. The polypro lines and old tarp provide enough support to reduce the load on the grommets of the new tarp. When I can find them, I also use extra heavy-duty tarps, because their grommets are stronger.
As for the problem with tree sap and similar stains, I found a product this year that works great. "Krud Kutter" is available nationwide at most home centers. Last year I used it on an accumulation of pine sap on my tow vehicle according to the instructions on the bottle, and sprayed it off with a power washer, and it took all traces of it off. It also works without power washing, but may need more applications and some light scrubbing. I haven't used it on leaf stains on my boat yet, but believe it would work as well.
The unstepped mast on my C250 uses the factory supports and a 4x4 on the cabin roof supporting the middle of the mast and WM platic tarp I have been able to work under the tarp on select days all this winter. Also,what I did was throw a 1/2" rope I had laying around over the top of the tarp and lashed it down to the trailer. I believe there was enough rope to go over the top of the boat three times. That eliminated the tarp from whipping in the wind, Also used about sixteen bungee cords holding the the tarp eyelets to the trailer.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.