Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Pulled the windows out of my boat today to replace the seals. 5 of the windows popped out with minimal muss & fuss. The last one, the one that had been leaking, was a bear. Looks like the previous owner had attempted to solve the leak by pulling the window and slathering an entire tube of 3M 5200 in the hull/ frame joint. This thing did not want to come out. The one window took about hour to remove, and yes, I broke the glass. Please, be kind to the next owner and use the proper stuff!
5200 turns to silly putty with the 'prudent' use of a heat gun... gotta be careful though. There's a fine line between the melt point and causing damage to the gelcoat.
Maybe there should be something in Tech Tips about the the use of 5200 and its <u>VERY</u> limited uses. It might save future owners from these type of headaches.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Doug</i> <br />Looks like the previous owner had attempted to solve the leak by pulling the window and slathering an entire tube of 3M 5200 in the hull/ frame joint. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Before I started reading this forum, I was not aware of how strongly adhesive 5200 is, and I rebedded all the deck hardware on #1205 with it. Knowing what I now know about 5200, I would use 4200 or a polysulfide product like Sikaflex or Boatlife. Fortunately for Debbie Behling, I did NOT use 5200 on the windows, so she won't have an impossible task to get them out if she ever needs to.
Don't know where I got this, but this is how an 'expert' said to remove 5200 (plus some other info):
UNCURED Clean surfaces with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (part number #08984) or acetone. DO NOT use alcohol-containing solvents, which will inhibit the cure of the sealant.
CURED Polyurethane adhesive sealant must be removed mechanically if cured. Use a knife, razor blade, piano wire, putty knife or sandpaper.
Heating to remove 5200 and 4200 is not recommended because of the vapors given off and possible damage to the substrate.
5200 is meant for permanent applications. If removability is important in your application and you still need adhesive qualities use 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200. Think of 4200 as being the same as 5200 but it is half the strength of 5200 and you would have removability.
If you only require sealant qualities in your application, then use the 3M Marine Sealant Fast Cure 4000UV.
Spent a touch over six hours removing the old caulk from the cabin today. In the past I've used acetone, but this time I tried 3M General Adhesive Remover. The stuff worked great. Slower evaporation, much less fumes, and I think it also cut through the caulk residue better. The stuff is still toxic and flamable, but looks to be much less so tha acetone. Another tid-bit: The local glass place is charging slightly less than $40 to cut a new large window for me.
There is a new product on the market I saw in Good Old Boat for removing 5200. Debond2000 see it at debond2000.com (561) 575-4200. Have not heard reports on its use yet.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.