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Bedding Compound

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gracer
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/07/2005 : 09:34:04

I pulled the teak from the frame around companion way to refinish it, as I have already completed the hatch boards.

There is a seal of what my local marina calls "bedding compound" - VERY expensive!

Does anyone know a substitute. After 20 years (boat is an 85) the stuff was still soft and pliable.

Bob

PS Thanks to the forum users that suggested a way to remove the hand rails by using a puddy knife to loosen the seal - it worked great

Bob Grace
Castleton, Vermont
1984 Swing Keel "Sara"

Edited by - gracer on 04/07/2005 09:37:39

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2005 : 09:51:25

I've heard that the 'high-end' exterior butyl caulking compounds available from hardware and home improvment stores can be used for bedding above the waterline. About 1/3 the price of the marine grade components. Haven't used them on a boat myself.

I use 3M 101 for most of my bedding... I think the last cartridge I bought was $13.95. I have seen the price on marine caulking inflate rapidly over the last 5 years or so.

Put a screw into the end of the spout when you're done to seal out air/moisture and the leftover caulk will keep for awhile.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2005 : 12:08:49

When I finished my teak the other day, (A phrase I thought I would never say!), I pulled the headboard off the hatch, man was that caulk shot! It was dry, hard white stuff that was mostly missing. I am sure that if I did not use my cabin tarp it would have been letting rain in. (From under the seam/joint you could see a huge gap.) So check that area out, I put it back with 4200 and a very wet finger.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 04/07/2005 20:54:01

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2005 : 19:37:20

I found that plummers puddy makes an excellant bedding compound. I used 100 grit sand paper to rough up the gelcoat and back side of the teak. Then took a wad of puddy rolled it out like a large piece of rope, stuck it on the gelcoat then screw the teak on and peeled of the excess puddy. It never did get hard and best of all no leaks. Tip, when I sanded the gelcoat I tape off the area with duct tape so I did not scratch the area that wasn't cover by the puddy. I used duck tape because it would hold up under the 100 grit if I overlaped a little.

Edited by - on

ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2005 : 22:49:45

I suggest caution/care when trying to use auto parts butyl tape. The stuff is great as far as sealing and flexibility, but will run and migrate when it gets real hot (like in Fla) which I learned to my sorrow. But the window has never leaked! Ron srsk Orion SW FL

Edited by - on

Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2005 : 07:35:42

For the last four years I have used latex plus silicone for above water bedding compound on our boat, lumber yard $3.35, and its worked fine except if it gets rained on in less than a couple of days if cold. For underwater I use 3M 101 or 5200. Dave

Edited by - on

ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2005 : 12:16:08

I,ve refinished all my teak off the boat and recently rebedded the companionway threshold and hatch rails.Here are some observations:

I've used all sorts off caulk on my house and nothing compares to 3M's marine products.This is after all your boat,why scrimp? After some researh I went with 3M 4000UV.It appears to be better suited to teak than 4200,it's a lot easier to spread,it won't start curing in the tube as soon as you open it and West Marine rates it more versatile than 4200.

If you will be bedding lots of teak and hardware use the large tube and a caulking gun.It's alot easier than squeezing the small tubes,it won't cure in the tube if you seal the end and it' cheaper.

IMPORTANT! When you remove,refinsh and rebed companionway teak things change!I learned the hard way that you should fit the threshold and side rails without any sealent then slide in the hatch boards and make sure everything looks right.The position of the threshold over the wall changes a lot the way the hatch boards sit.In my case I had dry rot under the threshhold and after repairing with epoxy I screwed it down with sealant parallel/square to the wall.Big mistake.For the hatchboards to sit right and have the sliding top clear the threshold needed to be at an angle to the wall.Even if you use the same screw holes I would check first without sealant,it's a lot easier to make adjustments.

Edited by - ct95949 on 04/08/2005 14:26:12

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2005 : 14:13:29

I agree that 4000 is preferable to 4200, the only local boat store only carries 5200 and 4200 so I use 4200. The 4200 will cure in the tube after you open it and I often throw away large amounts of it. I really need to order some 4000.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2005 : 17:20:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 I agree that 4000 is preferable to 4200, the only local boat store only carries 5200 and 4200 so I use 4200. The 4200 will cure in the tube after you open it and I often throw away large amounts of it...

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

To avoid throwing wasted caulk away, I buy the small toothpaste sized 3M caulk from the boating section at Walmart.

Edited by - on

JB007
Deckhand

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USA
20 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 11:55:16

Frank,

Thanks for the photo. Your Teak looks Great!

I still have to do mine. Did you use a stripper or just sand or a combination?

Also, did you use Cetol?

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 12:12:41

Working at Boeing we use all types of sealants. Here are a few tricks of the trade. Keeping sealant once open 3M 4000 4200 5200 etc can be thrown in a freezer. It stops the cure process and can be thawed out and used again. Cap and wrap. Cleaning up can be done with WD40. WD40 is a solvent not a lubricant. Never But never use silicone. Silicone will actualy absorb water and loose it's bond over time. It also contaminates any area or tool it comes in contact with. Spreding or fairing can be done by masking off and smoothing with a seal spoon or using your finger with water. When using a soft caulk I agree with finding a good puty from the hardware store. Glazing puty or plumbers putty but high quality. If you have a few extra bucks use Life Caulk from the maine store.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 12:51:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JB007
 Frank,

Thanks for the photo. Your Teak looks Great!

I still have to do mine. Did you use a stripper or just sand or a combination?

Also, did you use Cetol?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks. My Makita orbital and my Black and Decker Mouse did everything I cared to do and did it all in less than an hour. I left everything on except that head board. I had Starbrite teak oil on hand and I do not like any Cetol I have ever seen. Years ago I used DEKS OLE` but is smelled awful and certainly had no real benefit to it over any other oil. I am more motivated by a desire for smooth teak rather than bristol teak so I am not concerned about the longevity of the oil. Almost everyone on this forum is a better expert on teak than I am.

Edited by - on

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