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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Keel Cable Replacement

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Esteban
Navigator

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139 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/09/2005 : 13:10:27

Greetings folks,

Im planning on replacing my keel cable and all the associated hardware except the actual bolt fastened into the keel itself.

I could not find any instructions in the tech section other than some excellent drawings from the factory.

Question for those of you who have undertaken this project; are there any "Warnings - Cautions or Notes" or this as straight forward a job as it seems? Any tips would be appreciated.

Esteban Diaz
Tally Ho!

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 18:39:15

If you bought the clamps, hose ball and cable from CatalinaDirect.com then it is straight forward as it seems. If not you need to be careful to get serious hose, (marine exhaust grade) and clamps that have thread tracks that do not go all the way through, (they will chew your hose). It really is a piece of cake. Picks of some of it at my site.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 20:16:16

Should be some other threads with instructions.
All IMHO, 2 cts worth, follow at your own discretion and peril.

Remove the cabin stairs to service/replace the keel pipe, turning ball etc... feed the cable through from below just far enough to get it fastened onto the winch drum and then replace the stairs to complete the spooling.

When spooling the new cable have somebody hold as much tension on the cable as they can from below the hull... have the helper use gloves, rags whatever to hang on. Try to get the cable spooled on the drum as neatly and tightly as possible... and hold the tension until the keel itself starts to lift, otherwise the cable will 'spring' out and can wrap under itself. (not good)

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 20:34:35

Clam always knows what he is talking about.

However

If I were replacing the winch then removing the stairs would be considered, but I weigh 300 lbs and had no problem changing out the ball with the stairs in. That is to say they did not hamper my range of motion.
Just my second two cents.

Love ya Clam.

Edited by - on

ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 21:35:44

Last haulout replaced winch, cable, ball, hose, clamps. No removal of steps required, at least on Orion. Cannot speak to other years or
configurations, fair winds ron srsk 1981 #2343 SW FL

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 21:43:39

>"Clam always knows what he is talking about."

Heh... only because I've already made most of the mistakes.
I'll add some commentary.

The 'remove the stairs' decision was driven by the situation I was up against on my boat.

I was having a devil of a time back in the hole... the little bolts that hold the tail of the cable were rusted to the winch drum... I was sweatin' bullets trying to get them loose. Beyond that, the keel hose didn't want to come off the bronze pipe... the PO had used some sort of adhesive on it. The project was quickly turning into one of those epic struggles.

Since the stairs were only held in by 3 'easy' bolts I decided that getting them out of the way was the best bet. Once I had the stairs leaned forward, things went much, much better. I finally used some nippers to cut the rusty cable bolts off and then since the winch was 'hangin' right there, I removed it and and did a clean/paint/lube job.

(Note: lube only the appropriate parts)

Without having to face the the 'deferred maintenance' problems, I might try the cable replacement with the stairs in place next time... but having them out made the job so easy I'm not sure which is the quicker route overall.

The older I get, the more I tend to get obstructions out of the way, even though it may mean a few extra steps. I'm finding that in my 50's I'm not as flexible as I used to be.

------------
One other 'advice' comment... the tail of my keel cable had a permanent hook from being bolted into the winch for so long... despite some serious tugging with a vise-grip clamped on the cable, it would not go past the turning ball (pulling the cable from the outside). I finally just cut off the old swaged end fitting (cutting the cable close to the fitting is pretty easy) and pulled it through to the inside... came right through.

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Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2005 : 23:12:54

ClamBeach wrote: <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">in my 50's I'm not as flexible as I used to be.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Maybe you need to remember to lube the appropriate parts.

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Esteban
Navigator

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139 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2005 : 08:26:27

Thanks for the tips folks - one last question: I'm I supposed to used some type of adhesive/sealant between the hose and the bronze pipe?

Thanks a million!

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2005 : 11:59:38

I honestly don't remember. The PO had quite a but of silicone at the base but not much on the pipe.

Our boats are pretty much hand made at that level of construction. I could well imagine some needing it and some not. My guess is that it is your call when you see it.

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ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2005 : 21:12:36

I am doing the same thing on my boat now.
I started to remove the stairs, but when the bolt holding the top (starboard side) didn't want to come out ... I had second thoughts.
My boat is on jack stands now and I thought, hmmm ...maybe the boat isn't sitting quite level like it does in water, and maybe that pressure is transferred to the hull in a torque which is putting pressure on the steps and bolt.
So I thought, what if I can get the bolt and steps to line back up.
So I left the steps in place and really didn't have that much difficulty removing the winch,
or hose, or turning ball.
My little bolts holding the cable tail also broke off.
That's when I decided, "screw it" I'm buying a new winch cause it's probably 19 years old and the handle slips off when I crank it.
I know I could have replaced the little tail holding bolts,
but I will also feel better with a new winch.
I better fell better 'cause it cost over a boat unit.

Anyway, it wasn't hard to work around the steps. And I'm 52.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2005 : 21:54:01

Esteban,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I'm I supposed to used some type of adhesive/sealant between the hose and the bronze pipe?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Yeah, I'd recommend it. That joint is under water, you don't want it to leak, and you sure don't want that hose to slip off! That piece of hose around the keel cable could really ruin your day if it failed. As for which adhesive/sealant, I have a couple suggestions about what NOT to use. Silicone sealant, a close relative of bathroom tub caulk, is very slippery stuff. In other applications, I've seen hoses pop back off smooth (unbarbed) pipe after the clamps were tight, because the silicone sealant acted as a lubricant. Another catagory I'd avoid is anything real permanent, such as 3M 5200 polyurithane adhesive. Keep in mind the hose needs to come back off every couple of years for replacement, and to service the turning ball. I use a polysulfide adhesive/sealant such as 3M 101 or the BoatLife brand equivalent. 3M 4200 might be a reasonable choice as well. I haven't used it enough to say with confidence what it's like to get back apart.

In addition to installing two marine grade stainless steel hose clamps, I leave a third hose clamp hanging loosely around the hose or pipe so it's handy if I ever look in there and see that one of the tight hose clamps isn't looking so healthy. I also spray greasy waxy metal protectant into the screw housing of the clamps before installing them. That seems to be where a lot of them fail, and it's about impossible to inspect once they're installed.

-- Leon Sisson

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Esteban
Navigator

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139 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2005 : 19:14:57

Ok... still waiting on CD and off I go this weekend. Last project before splash. thanks for the tips gang!

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steephen
Navigator

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100 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2005 : 11:34:07

One advantage of removing stairs is that you can take them home and refinish them like new. otherwise the cable is cake except be sure to keep drum tension as mentione.
#1667 Stephen Z.

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