Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I got a new winch, handle, cable, ball, hose & clamps from CD and put them all on yesterday.
Lowering the keel seems a LOT STIFFER, much more difficult. It cranks up nicely but I'm surprised how much effort it takes to lower it. My old winch had some (brake) resistance when lowering it, but the new one really has a lot of resistance.
The cable is going straight okay and wraps nicely.
I know this is difficult to communicate and is subjective, but any comments will be appreciated.
I need to call CD because the new handle doesn't fit the winch worth a crap. I don't know why it wouldn't. My old handle fits much better.
If anyone who has replaced their winch would comment I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks
Did you by any chance do a partial disassembly of the new winch during installation? There is an adjustment of the clutch-plate assembly, as I recall. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL
I replaced the winch on #1205 in 2003, and had the same experience. The effort to "break loose" the clutch and lower the keel is much higher than it was on the old winch. The answer is obvious: the friction plates on the new clutch are "new", they haven't had any wear on them yet and the friction surface is still rough. After a few dozen cycles, the friction discs will start to wear smooth and it won't be so hard to turn the crank in reverse.
I did not adjust the winch at all. (Thanks Ron) And it makes sense that the new friction plates would have more friction (being new), so Thanks Larry.
Since the picture (illustrated on the instructions) with the new winch showed the tail of the cable exiting the drum and going around the axle (outside the drum) before being clamped, I wondered if that was creating a little drag. But that's what the picture showed so that's the way I routed the cable. I put a little grease on the cable where it was rubbing the support housing (again, this is outside the drum very near the "tie-down" clamp.) The rubbing is not serious. The cable is nice and taught. I got someone down below to hold onto the cable when I first cranked up the slack to get nice wraps around the drum. The cable wraps on the drum look perfect.
It seems to operate fine. I only wish the new winch handle fit !! That's one reason I bought a new winch.
With respect to the winch handle "fit", I have a question: when I replaced Orion's winch, it came with a round fitting that attached to the winch shaft with a setscrew affair (as I recall) and the new winch handle had a slot to fit (the fitting has a male key end). If by any chance they sent you the winch without the attachment, your new handle might not fit. (Reading this, I am not sure I made myself clear). My new winch sticking out more,required that I put the tennis ball on, due to the attchment, so as not to tear up legs---the old winch didn't really need that. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion, SW FL
I am not sure what "doesn't fit" means. Some people replace the winch and forget to put the wedge back under the step. It causes alignment issues with the handle. Do you have the wedge like the one in my picture?
Yes I have the wedge in (and by the way your pictures are very nice). The new winch handle doesn't fit over the key as it is intended to do. I didn't see any spurs in the female part of the handle. I know if I try to turn it it would slip off and begin to round the key. I just need to call CD and have them issue a "call tag" and replace it. My old handle works fine, but I'm being very careful with it because of its age it is a little "rounded" on its female key. The set screws don't keep the "key end" really tight on the winch. I wonder if I should use something like loc-tight on the set screws.
I also put the new end on the shift for the winch handle. The set screws should be tightended and locked in place with a punch. This is not a place where something coming loose is a good thing. If you need to replace the winch in the years to come the area can be filed a little and the screws removed.
I put a new winch in last year and it still unwinds tightly. I don't move her that much but I assume it will loosen up a bit over time. Do you guys keep boats on the mooring with the keel up, or down? I can't decide whether to worry about the cable snapping if up, or the rocking wear if down; I tend to leave it half way. Comments?
>about the cable snapping if up, or the rocking wear if down; I tend to leave it half way. Comments<
Salt water or fresh? How much wave action is in your marina?
I think that the original intent of the designer was to moor the boat with the keel up. All the swingers I've seen sit even 'on their marks' with the keel cranked up and bow down with it lowered. Sitting with too much bow down attitude will keep the decks and cockpit from draining properly.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.