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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2002 :  08:41:20  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


After reading Don's reply, I remembered that when I looked at the "lower" post (by inserting my head in and looking up) on my Catalina the top didn't even go all the way up to the bottom of the bench. It doesn't go all the way down nor does it reach all the way up.

Why not call Catalina and ask them what this secondary post is for BEFORE doing a bunch of work?

Albert Iturrey

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

That's a good point Albert. Don and others, can you verify that the post does/doesn't go all the way up, ours was too trashed to even tell! I did call catalina, but they were pretty blaise about the whole thing and the only thing he did say was not to step the mast until repalaced.

dw

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2002 :  08:53:50  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
Thanks to all of you for pictures, suggestions and a little humor...

Just to keep you all up to speed, here is the current solution that we will work with.

1. Using fiberglass R=roving and west system we are closing that limber hole. We plan on doing this with two coats, max.

2. During that process, we will be coating the wood (right now oak is in the lead, however I received a quote from Thai Teak Marine, the price is good 52 bucks for a 4x4x24", but the shipping is a bitch $60)

3. With a small bottle jack and a piece of 1/2 x 2 we are going to attempt to raise the glass and post about 1/16th of an inch, then we are going to slide the post into place and remove the jack.

4. After some screws with finishing washers (which were there from the previous piece) are put into place, we are going to take some finishing fiberglass cloth and epoxy the entire area.

5. We will be installing an inspection plate in the area to monitor the keel trunk. (check out Ken Caves Keel trunk reinforcemtent tech tip...this could also be a problem so we need to inspect it.

6. Get back to the rest of the damn projects on our list!!!!!


dw

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2002 :  22:43:18  Show Profile
Duane,

I was down at the boat today and I looked at my post and it is intact and glassed in and goes down to the hull. The top does come up a little short(1/2") and it looks like it was filled in with some sort of hard goop, leading me to believe that this post was designed to reinforce the fiberglass that the compression post sits on and not to transfer the entire compression load to the hull.

Don Lucier, Northstar
C25 SR/FK

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2002 :  23:25:22  Show Profile
Duane,

Mine is the same as Don's. As you can see the bottom of the post is in contact with the hull (though it was cut back considerably) but the top fell short and is filled in with a hard 'bondo' type material.

I think your plan is solid except I'm concerned about the jacking part. I understand you want to lift the deck a tad to pre-load the post, but how do you know it needs it? Are there any indicators that lead you to believe that it has drooped? Also how do you know you will lift the deck and not push the hull down?

I know, It's your boat <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> but I'd hate to have you post back that you punched a hole in the hull without me stating my concerne. I wish you the best of luck.

Mark-
<img src="http://personal.jax.bellsouth.net/jax/l/c/lchaplin/unkarock/usflagwav.gif" border=0>
'Impulse'
C25 #533 DINN/FIN ~_/)~

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2002 :  22:27:44  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
NEWEST UPDate.


Instead of contouring my piece of douglas fir...(got a cured, untreated fencepost...a true 4X4...free) we went with a new route.

After crying about the problem for a week, we decided that the easiest thing to do was Dry the area, close the hole with fiberglass and resin and replace the post with a new post. However, the post would have to be contoured to work its way around the keel trunk. that calls for a lot of cutting, and a lot of swearing, and usually blood (resulting from a splinter, some idiot getting his fingers in the way of the saw. A good uppercut..etc.)

We installed an inspection plate similar to the location of Ken Cave's in his swing keel reglass project, and sucked out around 8 gallons of water that was unseen, and never made its way to the bilge...Thankfully, after a call to Catalina yachts I was convinced that there was nothing other than that post that could rot, (or at least shouldn't). We still have more water to get out and will be using a shop vac to get at it. there are some hills and vallies under the cabin sole and we essentially got everything out we could with sponges and a manual hand pump. The water was cleaner than lake erie so the thought is it was rain water from over the years...

On Saturday, Harvey and I went to the Local Boat US and made the Gouggeon Brothers just a little bit richer. We purchased some epoxy resin, some roving, some matt and some finish. After filling the hole, we realized that we had enough colloidal silica, roving and mat left over to build the area up until it was a 4x4 mass of thick Fiberglass, so that is what we did. 1 gallon of resin later ..

This next week we will be cutting the post to size and coating it with Resin (wet coats on wet coats until the thing is saturated)and screwing it into place.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. By the Way, Douglas fir is what They said was originally used on the boat.

DW

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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