Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm finally getting around to re-connecting the wiring to the mast, and I have a question. The wires from the battery are red, white and green. The last seems to be the ground and the other two positive. On the mast side, I have green, white and black. How do I dtermine which goes with which?
The wire colors at your mast plug are the colors from your control panel. They are not related to the battery colors. Look at the back of your switch panel to see the color code of your mast plug. There is also a very good chance that the colors in the mast don't match the deck plug either. You may need to confirm the color code of the mast by looking at the terminations at the lights.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fredhillmann</i> <br /> The wires from the battery are red, white and green. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
There should be four wires, not three. 1. Ground 2. Anchor light, 3. Deck light 4. Bow (steaming) light. The Bow and Deck light wires go halfway up the mast, and the Ground and Anchor light wires go all the way to the top. The deck plug should have 4 connector pins in it. Does your switch panel have separate switches labeled "Anchor", "Bow", and "Deck"?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by lcharlot</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fredhillmann</i> <br /> The wires from the battery are red, white and green. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
There should be four wires, not three. 1. Ground 2. Anchor light, 3. Deck light 4. Bow (steaming) light. The Bow and Deck light wires go halfway up the mast, and the Ground and Anchor light wires go all the way to the top. The deck plug should have 4 connector pins in it. Does your switch panel have separate switches labeled "Anchor", "Bow", and "Deck"? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Nope. My panel switches are labeled "Running" , "Bow light" and "Anchor" (in addition to "Cabin" which works fine). I'll probably have to wait until sunset some day to see which is which.
Bow light = steaming light, faces forward on your mast close to the spreaders. Anchor light = masthead light with 360 degrees of visibility. Running = hull navigation lights, stern white and red + green on the bow
You have the old stock configuration. I think most boats were probably ordered with the upgrade for a deck light. Do you have blanks on your switch panel?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br /> You have the old stock configuration. I think most boats were probably ordered with the upgrade for a deck light. Do you have blanks on your switch panel? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
So, the deck light (and the wiring for it) was an extra-cost option from the factory? Now that I think back, when I first got #1205, it had only a 3-pin deck socket! I added a circuit for the deck light, installed a new 4-pin socket, and re-wired the mast and upgraded all the nav lights. That was 9 years ago; I spent the whole summer of '96 working on that boat, fixing and replacing worn out equipment. Adding a whole new wiring circuit is a pain on these boats since the factory wiring is sandwiched between the inner and outer deck shells, forcing the owner to run any new wiring wherever he can.
My '84 has a 3-prong fitting and no deck lights. I have an Anchor light and a Steaming light only. Because of what Larry said I decided against re-wiring.
My 81 has a four-prong deck connector. You can purchase an identical one new from any marine supply store. One of the prongs (the ground) is slightly fatter than the other three. On my boat the wire colors never have matched. I just experiment and when the various lights work, that's the way I go. The actual lights never matched what the panel said, so I simply re-labeled.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by lcharlot</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fredhillmann</i> <br /> The wires from the battery are red, white and green. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
There should be four wires, not three. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Not necessarily true Larry - Earlier boats did not have a deck light. We replaced our three prong deck connector with a four to install the deck light.
The electical panel and lighting configurations vary somewhat by boat and year and factory options. There was a good thread in April that helped me quite a bit, see it at:
My connector is 4-prong plus a wedge-shaped plastic peg. I got a precise replacement from Catalina Direct. I'm going to put the wires on it exactly as they are on the old one without worrying about what's what.
I just finished my deck connector installation today and hopefully it will hold up better than the previous one.
I used the standard 4-prong connector as a replacement, but I made a modification to prevent water infiltration and corrosion which plagued the previous connector.
The first mod consisted of routing the mast wires through a foot long piece of automotive rubber tubing. The function of this hose is to provide both a grommet for the mast hole and to help protect the wiring between the mast and connector.
Since the wires wouldn't fit through it anyway, I removed the top cap and rubber grommet of the new connector and discarded them. In its place I used a small piece of automotive fuel line that was large enough to snugly accommodate both the hose on the mast wiring and the threaded top portion of the new connector. (When I say it snugly fit, I mean I had to use a little liquid soap as a lubricant)
I finished the installation with a boot fashioned from a dishwasher/garbage disposal adapter. This adapter fits snugly around both the connector and the short fuel line.
With the snug fit of all the pieces, I'm sure that this setup is weatherproof and will provide additional protection and strain relief for the mast wires and connector.
The best part is the tubing cost only a dollar or two and the dishwasher adapter I think was 5 or 6.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.