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Wanted - ideas for making boat prep efficent

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/27/2005 : 07:59:57

Exhausted from this weekends launch.
We trailed down to black point, launched Saturday noon, returned sunday noon. Slept (tried to sleep that is) on board alone except for the mosquitoes (all of them!) alongside of a bunch of guys-n-gals from BPYC (black point yacht club) who invited us over for a -BQ if we could find them.

Exhausted because of inefficient prep and derig routines.
Ideally I would have the jib on the furler during the trail down there and back. But have to contend with potential wet sail upon return.

I now have a the securing of the lines on the mast and the shrouds down pat. (looks pretty neat) and it's easy to lash and unlash them (lot's of rubber bungees, neatly spread out)

Things that grated: those damn keyrings! great if you are stood and can clearly see them, otherwise they are a pain. Luckily we carry spares!

Putting the jib on at the staging area. Has anyone made a sock for the jib on the furler (CDI) for trailing (we travel for 1 & 1/2 hours)

If we had just raised the mast once, it would have saved an hour of prep time. (please don't ask.)

I'll post some of the other issues seperately for clarity.

Things that worked well... The soft link, much improved steering under motor.
The new GPS on the RAM mount was great, easy to allow helm or crew to play with it.
The princess stove, awesome.
The porta-potty, what can I say. Glad we had it onboard.

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 10:19:33

Paul, mentally consider that settup and takedown are part of the sailing experience. Resist any temptation to consider them an inconvenience that intrudes on the sailing. To go there will be to become frustrated, with the end result that mistakes will be made in the settup or takedown.

And...as the Captain, ensure that the crew grasp this as well.

Consider the time as part of the whole weekend outing. Learn to do it well and if others assist, learn to do it as a team. If crew is assisting, use a checklist. It could be handled by a youth if the wife were assisting with settup or vice versa.

One thing that works well for me is to use it as a time to get involved in short chats with others. Don't do this however if it annoys the wife or kids. Sometimes the chat can take place while the settup continues and the chat will erase any time concerns.

It helps to position the boat away from the intensity of the launch ramp, get as far as possible from the ramp for settup (watch for power lines).

Don't become a contestant in launch ramp rodeo. Contestants can be spotted because they hurry, bark orders or curse themselves, others, or the equipment. Those who participate, demonstrate how to destruct their boats, trailers and tow vehicles.

Play a favorite (calming) CD during settup.

Children should be occupied with a game or activity. Don't allow them or anyone to pressure for a quicker settup or launch.

Try to pick a launch time when the ramp isn't crowded, but regardless of when you launch... don't allow anyone to intimidate or distract from a relaxed, methodical, and deliberate launch routine.

If it is hot, keep a towel handy to wipe the brow. If frustration starts to come on... take a walk about. Get something to drink or seek some shade for a moment.

I'm not suggesting to avoid tricks that can ease or shorten the task... those will come, just find a peace with it or ... rent a slip.

Edited by - on

At Ease
Admiral

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Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 13:22:34

Arlyn said it all...rent a slip.

It goes like this:

-Drive to boat.
-Put cooler on boat.
-Park truck.
-Cast off and motor toward lake as crew removes sail covers, etc.
-Start sailing.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 17:24:43

Thanks guys,
our choice of boat (C250WB) was partly based upon costs, we could save a bundle by not leaving the boat on a slip. (Of course, we would also save a bundle if we didn't tow it with a gas guzzler) A wing keel has more headroom, needs a tougher trailing vehicle and needs consistantly deeper water (it gets pretty skinny down around SOFLA)

It gets really special when the high humidity means not wiping your brow, but drying of the drenched body.

So, we have a swing keel and the slip is the grassy yard next to the house. With the explosion of new homes down here, wet slips are going to skyrocket.

Making the boat prep efficient (less work!) will imrpove the sailing experience.

Some of the things we have done to help:
Figured out a neat and reproducable way of lashing the standing rigging and halyards to the mast. The bungees make a big diffence (no knots to play with)
Having the boom rigged and secured to the deck.

The checklist is a must, and I'm building one from experiences so far. And you are absolutely correct, speading the load makes a huge difference. Peggy was a terrific help this weekend, learning fast.

Now if you want to talk about ignoring onlookers, you should have seen them watching the recovery on the very shallow ramp! Thanks to this forum I was well prepared.

Realised that we could not back the trailer in far enough to get the bow over the bow saddle. So I pulled the trailer out, chocked the trailer wheels, unhitched from the truck. Then attached a web tow line from the trailer to the truck hitch (30' line trailer to hitch and back so about 8' of extra length). After pulling the trailer off the chocks, were able to back it into the water. Now depth was not an issue. The crowd were gathering (a truck on the ramp had floated away just a few days earlier).
Boat onto trailer, snugged up to the bow rubber with the winch. Then haul the rig out. No sweat. Dissappointed the crowd though. Once clear of water, we chocked the wheels again so that we could re-hitch. Easy, though it took a while to get it all together.

Other things we learned:
Don't raise the mast until you have checked all lines and shrouds. Make sure the halyards are not out of reach at the top of the mast before raising it. (each should be a specific check off list item)

Oh, one more thing.... If you have the coffee perculator, make sure you packed coffee!

Edited by - on

Keith D.
Navigator

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Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 20:25:27

The checklist is what will help the most. I have put quick pins in most places to make setup a little faster. It still takes me an hour 15 minuets to set up the boat and an hour to get it ready to trailer again. I have set up the checklist for 2 people but so far it has never worked and it’s like one person setting up the boat. One reason for that is every time I have gone out I am with someone different. Have multiple copies of the checklist so when one blows away there is another one around. Also they tend to get crumpled up with one use. Here is a copy of mine, I have tried to keep it to one page, numbering the steps may also help. This one is still in a state of change; I see a few things I am going to change from the last setup.
One other thing, I keep all of the sheets, ropes, blocks and baby shrouds in a small duffel bag so I only need to go below for them once. All of the tie down ropes go into the same duffel as I take them off so I can find them when I put the boat back together for trailering

1 REMOVE TIEDOWNS AND SAFTY CHAIN FROM TRAILER
2 INSTALL WINDEX
2 UNWRAP MAIN HALYARD, TOPPING LIFT, JIB HALYARD AND BACKSTAY
1 ATTACH JIB RAISING ROPE ON FURLER AND RUN TO TOP
2 RELEASE SHROUDS FROM THE LIFELINES
1 RAISE REAR MAST CARRIER
2 MOVE MAST BACK AND PUT INTO MAST STEP
1 RUN BACKSTAY THROUGH BIMINI
2 ATTACH BABY SHROUDS PIN DOWN
2 TIE FURLER DRUM TO LIFE LINE
1 ATTACH MAIN HALYARD/SLING TO MAST RAISING POLE
2 INSERT RAISING POLE INTO MAST
1 TENSION MAIN HALLARD
2 ATTACH WINCH TO EYE IN ANCHOR LOCKER
1 RAISE MAST 7/8 OF THE WAY UP
2 CHECK SHROUD LINES TO SEE IF THEY ARE STRAIGHT UP
1 RAISE MAST ALL THE WAY UP
2 CLIP OFF RAISING POLE WITH ROPE IN ANCHOR LOCKER
1 RELEAS WINCH
1 WINCH DOWN FURRLER DRUM OPENING TOWARD THE BACK
2 PIN FURRLER DRUM
1 RELEASE WINCH LOOSEN MAIN HALYARD REMOVE POLE FROM MAST
2 REMOVE BABY SHROUDS
1 ATTACH BOOM TO TOPPING LIFT AND THEN TO MAST
2 ATTACH MAINSHEET TO BOOM AND SWIVEL BASE MOUNT
1 ATTACH BOOM VANG TO BOOM AND MAST
2 TIGHTEN CENTER BOARD ROPE
2 TIGHTEN BIMINI ROPES
1 RAISE JIB, REMOVE RAISING ROPE
2 RUN JIB SHEETS THROUGH BLOCKS AND FURL THE JIB
1 ATTACH MAIN SAIL TO BOOM AND ATTACH OUT HALL
2 ATTACH MAIN HALYARD AND PUT SAIL SLIGS INTO MAST SLOT
1 ATTACH JIFFY REFFING ROPE TO THE MAIN SAIL
2 BRING RUDDER AND TILLER TO COCPIT
2 PLUG IN MAST LIGHTS AND RADIO ANTANNA
1 PUT FENDERS ON LIFE LINES
2 PUT DOCK LINES ON CLEATS
1 PLUG FUEL LINE INTO MOTOR AND PUMP UP
2 TURN ON BATTERY INSERT SAFTY KEY ON MOTOR
1 LAUNCH BOAT AND TIE TO DOCK
2 INATALL RUDDER AND TILLER
1 CLOSE BALLAST TANK INLET VALVE AND VENT CAP
1 RAISE MAIN SAIL AND TIGHTEN OUTHALL

Edited by - Keith D. on 06/27/2005 21:26:02

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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1913 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 20:27:14

10-4 on the coffee

I replaced the use of bungee cords that I used to secure my rigging with plastic zip ties. They don't take up much room, secures your rigging tight, easy to undue - just cut them off with snips. Saves me a little time.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 06/27/2005 20:44:44

atgep
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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 21:49:37

With the B&R rig can the stays stay connected and adjusted? If they can, just leave as many shrouds connected as possible. I don't have that luxury on my 25. I do screw my turnbarrels down on the lower t-bolt about 10 turns before I put the shroud into it. That way, if I want to disconnect the shroud, the turnbuckle will stay on the lower t-bolt.

I hate the circlips as well. I use a ss bolt and locknut on the forestay. It is very secure and quick to rig. With the 250, the ONLY thing to keep the rig from crushing the cockpit is the forestay. I would never use a pushpin in such a critical application.

And for the gas guzzler. Unless you get something with a diesel expect horrible gas mileage.
Tom.

Edited by - on

Keith D.
Navigator

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233 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2005 : 22:07:47

I leave all of the shrouds adjusted and connected but you have to winch the furling drum down to get it connected. Here is a shortcut to that post.

http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6352

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 06/28/2005 : 06:47:17

Thanks Keith,
my check list is rapidly approaching yours, except that we use the trailer winch to raise the mast and that saves a lot of actions.
Saving a trip into the cabin and back out again using duffle bags is a good idea.

Here's how we are securing the rigging prior to trailing, it's neat and very easy to remove. Reproducable is a the key here.
<center>
Method of securing shrouds to the lifelines.

Preventing the spreaders from rotating down, just a comfort thing.

Bungees along the mast

</center>

I really want to figure out how to have the jib on the furler during the trip to the marina, still looking for jib-sock ideas.

Edited by - on

bear
Admiral

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909 Posts

Response Posted - 06/28/2005 : 07:48:15

I don't know what facilities you have at your Marina in So. Fla but I always wait to put the jib on when the boat is in the water and at a dock where I can easily attach and raise the jib. Also, I'm not sure I didn't see the mast attaching hardware still on the attach block on the deck. Perhaps the newer boats have different hardware but I leave the bolt and nut inserted in the mast all the time and just back off the nut a turn to slip the mast in/out of its base. Also,is there no chance of dryslipping at your Marina? "Just my two cents" "Bear" C250 WB

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/28/2005 : 08:44:36

Putting the jib up on the water is viable (as long as we don't screw up again and leave the lower end of the furler halyard at the top of the mast

)

The mast step is pretty simple on our boat.
<center>

Just a bolt with wingnut, passes thru the base plate, mast, base plate.
(It would be easier if the mast had a thru tube where the bolt goes through)
The mast can be raised by one, but feels safer if there is someone on the cabin top.

</center>

Dry slipping is available, but it would only save us raising the mast and that is really not a big deal with the new trailer system.

We're heading out again this weekend from the same marina for a two night trip. Peggy intends to take some pics of the process.

Edited by - on

bear
Admiral

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Response Posted - 06/28/2005 : 17:36:13

I gather the jib pulled the halyard to the top of the mast. Did that last year when the line slipped out of my hand. If you have a CDI setup I always tie another line to the halyard before the jib was lowered, except for last fall when the wind helped the genoa pull the halyard out of my hand.

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 06/28/2005 : 18:36:19

If you plan on sailing only from the trailer, do yourself a favor and get a spare set of everything that comes apart and goes back together. A real show stopper would be arriving at the ramp with the mast pivot bolt missing

You seem to be making great progress. It does get easier. The "sock" could be made for cheap out of a poly tarp. That stuff sews just fine. If you like it, you could then make one out of Sunbrella$$$$$$. A 10x15 tarp would be plenty. The only downside of leaving the sail on, is the added weight. Since I always do the mast alone, It is an issue for me.

Pretty soon you will be the expert!

Tom.

Edited by - on

jcfordham
Deckhand

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8 Posts

Response Posted - 06/29/2005 : 00:12:17

Right or wrong we leave the jib on the furler. Our dealer said it had uv inhibitor on the exposed area.

Do we have the only C250WB with a Schaefer furler?

Our setup and breakdown have become pretty quick EXCEPT for attaching the headstay. No matter what it seems to be about 1/2" too short due to the locking or antirotation strap bottoming out on the chain plate. Unfortunately the Schaefer doesn't have the cleats described in other threads about this issue that can be used to pull the headstay. Hopefully I have a solution in a d-shackle to bridge the short gap between the chain plate and turnbuckle. We'll see if it works this weekend!

Thanks to all for the great pointers for us noobs!

Jack

Edited by - on

jcfordham
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Response Posted - 06/29/2005 : 01:13:13

Forgot to mention we use lots of electrical tape, also recommended by our dealer, in addition to bungees. The benefit of the tape is that it generally won't come off as a bungee might and you can use it almost anywhere without leaving a mark.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/29/2005 : 05:37:57

Jack, On Joint Decision (CDI Furler) we raise the mast by pulling on the unused jib halyard (ie from the top of the mast) rather than the strap at the middle of the mast that is explained in the handbook. That and the back stay being detatched prior to raising makes it pretty easy to attach the furler base attachment. The shrounds stop the mast coming forward in absence of the backstay. I was amazed at how easy it was to attach after reading of the difficulties expressed here on the forum.

Basically...
<ul><li>after attaching the baby stays,
</li><li> we rig the winch strap up over the top roller on the trailers mast raising extension and aft to the Danger sticker near the lower end of the mast.
</li><li> Attach it to the jib halyard, take up the slack on the halyard and make a good job of securing it to the cleat on the mast (there seems to be a shortage of cleats, ie only 1) </li><li> Then we take up the slack with the winch, wind in under ratchet and the mast pops out of the rear mast support. </li><li> We keep raising checking the shrouds and lines etc. to make sure nothing is out of place/tight/misaligned until the mast if fully up. </li><li>Next we pull the furler drum towards the bow connector plate, then tighten up using the winch till it's easy to pop in the furler pin. </li><li> Finally we curse a little at that danged key ring thing to secure the pin in place. </li><li>Slacken off the winch and unhook the winch strap from the jib halyard. </li><li>A final check of the stays (angle of mast, tension of stays not changed (not yet))
</li><li>then we can stand up the bimini and pass the backstay through the zippered hole of the bimini and attach the backstay turnbuckle (soon to be replaced with a block-n-tackle)</li>
</ul>
We did it three times (ok, didn't finish it except for the final time) on Saturday, got that bit down now.
Because we had the jib in it's bag, we used the messenger line attached to the decored furler uphaul to raise the jib.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
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Response Posted - 06/29/2005 : 09:46:47

Paul, I trailer with the jib halyard in place on the CDI furler without any problems or concern with raising the mast and having the halyard unreachable.

The halyard on the CDI can be described as a three part halyard. The main section leads from the car internally up the luff and over the head block and down to the head cringle of the jib.

A short pigtail section is attached to the car externally and is just long enough so that when the jib is hoisted and the car is at its lowest point, it can be cleated to the drum with about six inches (explained later) of excess line.

A third section of halyard is a temporary line that is removed after the jib is hoisted. It is made to the pig tail line with a square knot and after hoisting the jib and having the pig tail in reach is removed to allow the pig tail to be cleated to the drum cleat. It is stowed in the sail bag where it will be ready when the jib is removed. When the jib is dropped, don't forget to make the temporary line to the pig tail first.

The length of this temporary halyard should be such that a loop is made by the three sections of halyard long enough to go through the drum cleat. After removing the sail run the temporary halyard through the drum cleat hole and using a square knot, make it to the halyard end removed from the sails headboard.

This leaves the halyard in a continous loop which will trailer easy and won't leave a problem of where the halyard is after the mast is raised.

Interstingly, the halyard on the CDI is a very poor performer at setting the sails luff tension. Because of this deficiency, it is much better to simply haul the sail fully up and cleat the pigtail and use a downhaul to tension the luff. For the downhaul, use a very small nylon line about 3/32 and five feet long and make it to the tack grommet with a bowline where it can be left permanently. After hoisting the sail and cleating the halyard pigtail to the drum... run the tack line three turns around the drum slot and the tack grommet... the result is a six part purchase block and tackle that allows very easy tensioning of the sails luff. After tensioning, simply wrap the remaining line around the loops and tie off. While the line is small, there are now six runs to carry the load.

This is a much better method of tensioning the luff of the jib compared to using a shackle at the tack or a fixed length tack line and fighting the poor performing halyard on the furler.

The last tip concerns the halyard pig tail and why the six inches of excess line. This allows a choice of hauling the jib fully aloft for lighter air or down about six inches for heavy air sailing. Fully aloft, the sail interacts less with the life lines and shapes better. On heavy air days the sail downhauled very near the drum will reduce heeling moment.

Most riggers will probably have the CDI settup this way, but we've seen reports of some who aren't. If yours isn't, it's clearly the way to go.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 06/29/2005 11:21:31

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/29/2005 : 18:56:38

Arlyn,
I'll take a pic of my Jibs downhaul this Saturday.
We pretty much followed your plan except for the downhaul.
After raising the jib to the top of the furler (thanks for the insight on heavy/light wind options) I remove the messenger and secure the bight of the halyard on one of the shackles on the top of the CDI furler drum. Then pass the rest of the halyard pigtail around the furler drum to the second shackle on the top of the furler drum. Now the pigtail is run through the lower ring of the jib and the 2nd shackle a few times as you descibed using the thin 5' of line. However, you method highlights the problem with using the pigtail (end of the halyard) to act as a downhaul... it's too thick and not long enough. So I'll use your method to tension the luff with the thin line downhaul.

Edited by - britinusa on 06/29/2005 18:58:19

coldducks
Captain

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Response Posted - 06/30/2005 : 22:35:28

DITTO "AT EASE".

HAHAHAHAHHA....our biggest labor intensive chore is putting the pop top up for the weekend....

seriously, we admire all the work and effort you trailer sailors go through to get on the water. after all is said and done, it is all worth it. enjoy your summer.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/30/2005 : 23:00:39

guestimating that it will only take us around 30-40 minutes to prep the boat this weekend (baring snafus). Longer if we take pics of the process.

Edited by - on

Capt. Kurt
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Response Posted - 07/01/2005 : 14:16:03

It seems like those quick stay adjusters that racers use would speed up rigging after trailoring.
Anyone have experience with these? They look very easy to adjust.

http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/h-stamaster.htm?E+scstore

Kurt
#818 C250WK 'Tortuga'

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 07/04/2005 : 21:36:58

It's amazing what a bit of planning does.
We had Joint Decision rigged and ready to leave the staging area within 45mins.
The biggest assists were..
<ul>
<li>Storing everything in the boat and nothing in the truck before leaving home.</li>
<li>Working from the front of the trailer to the back of the boat we cut down the number of trips up and down the ladder.</li>
<li>Replacing most of the 'bits of string' with rubber bungees that held everything to the mast in transit, hence nothing to untie.</li>
<li>Having the furler on the mast</li></ul>

It took another half hour to fill with water, head to the ramp and get the boat in the water (had to wait in line)

So we're getting better.

The unrigging was at 9am this morning, but took two hours in the heat (95F+) But much of that time was being over tired from not sleeping last night.
(We woke at 2:30, I asked in jest if Peggy wanted so coffee, so we had coffee!)
The weather looked bleak so we motored from Sands Key back to Black point to keep the sails dry.

Edited by - on

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