Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello Everyone, I have been reading your post with much interest lately. Last week I bought a C25 sr fk at a public auction for less that 2 weeks pay (don't hate me)! I also found a trailer and now have the boat parked next to the house where I will spend the next 8 months (yes I'm counting) preparing it for launch next spring.
My first question (of many, I'm sure) is: While the C25 should be great for cruising the San Juans with my small family (wife and 2 small kids), how does it behave when club racing? What modifications should I make? For several years I have been crewing for others on Yankees, Ericsons and Thunderbirds, now that I have a boat of my own I can't wait to skipper it !
PS- for the new name I am thinking <i>Independance</i>
Congratulations on your new C-25 ... you're going to love it!
I'm not a racer, but there are quite a few of our membership who really know how to make the old C-25 perform competitively. Derek Crawford regularly races (and cleans up!) on Canyon Lake ... he is traveling to the National Regatta at the moment, so he probably won't be able to reply for a while. Steve Milby is an avid racer, as is Gary Bruner (who lives in your area), and there are several others.
Anyway, I'm sure there will be some racing suggestions for you ... you might also search the archives and see what you can find.
BTW, I like the proposed name for your boat ... but ... are you sure you want to spell it like that?
As to the original question... Sure, C25's are still raced, mostly under PHRF in beer can and club regattas.
What to modify? Nothing, unless you want to 'upset' your PHRF rating. As far as racing instrumentation, all you will need (in IMHO order of importance): 'windex', compass, knotmeter, WAAS-enabled GPS, hand held wind speed instrument. Every boat should have a depthsounder too, racing or not.
Squeaky clean and fair bottom, set of fresh sails, good cordage, take all the extra weight off the boat and/or relocate it to the cabin sole when racing. That's about it. You may have to decide on spinnaker or no spinnaker... in many areas this changes your class, ask around.
adjustable backstay all lines led aft (I have 10 plus 2 jib sheets and 2 spinnaker sheets) the traveller lines can be greatly improved rake mast back race tuned standing rigging get rid of wire/rope halyards self tailing jib sheet winches vang preventers outhaul cunningham whisker pole (including lift and downhaul) spinnaker pole (ditto the lift and downhaul) balanced rudder mid boom sheeting head sails (60, 110, 135, 155, drifter, spinnaker) main (full batten, loose footed, flattening reef and 2 reef points with racing numbers and draft stripe) tiller extender epoxy encapsulated, computer faired keel, jacklines, harness, tether
I have all this but the cunningham and am saving my pennies for a new Ullman racing main and a drifter. Oh yeah, my 135 and 155 headsails are laminate racing sails.
I am US Sailing #97992
I outpoint and pass most any sail boat 35 feet and under. The C25 can really beat its 228 PHRF rating.
Hey Jim... Your DQ'd from Nationals by that mid-boom mainsheet, right? (Did you add that since I was out with you? ...You know, the day we "smoked" the Norgans in more ways than one!)
To race, you need a clean, smooth bottom, keel and rudder and a good racing bottom paint. You can't win races with a boat that's slower than the competition. Also, you need good sails. North sails are always good. The mainsail should have a racing shelf foot and flattening reef. You also need a 155% genoa and a 110% jib. For 25 foot boats, dacron sails can serve as well as laminated sails in most conditions, if you take their stretchiness into consideration when trimming them. Those sails will be sufficient in most windspeed ranges that you will race in. Sails of other sizes might be useful on relatively rare occasions, but the expense really isn't justified in most racing venues. All lines should be led aft to the cockpit so you can power the sails up and down with every puff and lull. You should have a boom vang, backstay adjuster, and a cunningham and outhaul with enough mechanical advantage to make them easy to adjust on the fly. You should have a strong whisker pole for downwind sailing. You need telltales on the stays and on all the sails.
Those are the real necessities. Other hardware and electronics are good to have, but you can win races without them.
The are still raced, especially on a lot of inland lakes. In general they have a favorable PHRF rating in Heavier air. The the really light stuff, 5 kts or less, its sometimes not even worth leaving the dock if your looking for racing.
Keep her light and tune her for the weather at hand and take advantage of every possible thing you can. Clean smooth bottom, little weight aloft. Get the table off the boat and the motor off the transom if your local rules allow for it.
And have fun - its going to take a little time, but you'll soon be competitive as you begin to learn what the boat can do.
My advice is to just get out there and start racing. You probably won't do very well at first, but you'll start your way up the learning curve. Learn the rules. Practice your starts. And of course, get your bottom nice and clean. Upgrade your sails and hardware as you can afford it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.