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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Jiffy reefing

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Initially Posted - 04/18/2002 : 12:24:16

Would someone please explain how I rig the jiffy reefing set-up on my C25 1985?
Thanks a lot!

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 13:01:41

If you can get into the Tech tips or manual section there are good pictures or how its all set up.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 13:16:12

. . . and if you can't get into Tech Tips the West Marine catalog has a nice diagram of the Harken system . . . a picture is worth a thousand words on this rigging . . .

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ (ode to Joy)

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 13:38:43

Which segment of the tech tips are you referring? The closest I found was Bill Holcolmbs Flattening reef system. I two would like more info on a jiffy reef.

dw

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 15:05:40

Kathleen,

I sail SF Bay, often single-handed, jiffy reefing is necessary. In fact, this year I had a second set of reef points installed. Yesterday, in 25mph winds, I used them both.

If you have a single reef sail, start a line (3/8in. minimum) near the clew. Attach a small Eye Strap to the side of the boom. Tie a stopper knot in the line and run it up through the Leech cringle and back down to a Cheek Block that you mount on the opposite side of the boom from Eye Strap. Run the line forward to nearly the gooseneck. Mount another Cheek Block, run the line up to the Luff cringle, down the other side. So, right now, if you lower the main halyard to a certain point (mark it on the halyard so you know), you can pull this line and the two cringles will be drawn toward the boom. Voila! Reefed. You can run some 1/4 line through the three or four reinforced reefing string holes, roll up the excess sail, and have a neat, properly shaped mainsail again. I leave my reefing strings installed by having a knot tied on each side of the grommet.

Now, you must decide where to secure the end of the line you just pulled to make the reef happen. Do you install another cheek block at the forward end of the boom and run it back to a cleat at the cockpit end of the boom? Or, do you tie it off to a cleat on the mast. Or, do you take it to the base of the mast, through a turning block, back to the cockpit and tie it off to a cleat, or a cluch? I'm sure there are other ways to do it.

I followed Bill Holcomb's lead and installed two pivoting-exit-cam- cleats, one for reefing, one for the clew out-haul, at the base of the mast, so my reefing line runs down, through the right angle block, over the cam cleat and back to the cabin. Drop the halyard, jerk the reefing line and its done in a few seconds.

Yeah, I know what you are thinking, too easy. Well, right, when you need to reef the wind is bouncing you around, you need to ease out the main sheet, drop the halyard and fight the sail down. Then go up and tie the reefing strings. Practice before you need to use it! But in the event, it is quick and safe, even for me single handing. (yes, I tie the reefing strings, too.)

If you need two reefs, just repeat the rigging with the hardware flip-flopped on the boom. I really needed them yesterday!

Jim Williams
Hey Jude
C25fk 2958

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 18:32:19

Sorry its not in Tech its in the older parts manual (19)

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John Mason
Admiral

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687 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2002 : 18:40:25

Kathleen,
If you're referring to the factory set-up, here's the picture that shows it - http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/4-1-9.gif

At the back of the boom there should be a small padeye (loop of metal) on the port side and a cheek block on the starboard. On the boom, close to the gooseneck, there should be a jam cleat. Tie a figure eight knot in one end of one of the reefing lines and thread it through the padeye, up through the reefing grommet at the back of the sail (about two or three feet up from the foot), down through the cheek block and through two small fairleads (more loops of metal) forward to the jam cleat. The jam cleat should have a hole in it. Run the line through the hole and tie another figure eight knot.

On the mast, below the boom, there should be a padeye on the port side and a jam cleat on the starboard side. Take the shorter reefing line and tie a figure eight, thread it through the padeye, up through the reefing grommet at the front of the sail and down through the hole in the jam cleat and tie another figure eight knot.

If you don't find all of this hardware, then you're missing something that might need replacing<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>.

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290

Edited by - John Mason on 04/18/2002 18:41:33

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Rick Heaverly 86 C25 5382
Navigator

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Belize
206 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2002 : 07:39:05

I printed off of tech tips "Nth Degree - Lazy Jacks" (http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/nthdegre.html) complete diagram with mounting instructions. I plan on installing sometime.....

Rick Heaverly

Edited by - Rick Heaverly 86 C25 5382 TR-FK on 04/19/2002 07:43:17

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3323 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2002 : 13:38:25

Kathleen - I agree almost entirely with JW's description. However, I use 3/16" line (I've found it to be perfectly adequate) and when it comes down the port side of the mast, it goes thru' a simple block (attached to the mast step by it's becket), thru' a triple deck organiser (which also holds the lines for the vang and the cunningham)and then back along the cabin top to a simple CLAM cleat alongside the pop-top. It really is an easy set-up to do, and even easier to use.
Derek on "This Side Up" '81 C25 TRFK #2262

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