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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Sliding Hatch Teak
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Monomachos
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/04/2019 :  19:08:43  Show Profile

Hello all,

I've been tracking down and repairing a few topside leaks. I have one leak coming from the forward-most screw going into my starboard teak hatch sliders. I thought I might pull off both pieces (they need refinishing), but they are proving quite hard to get off the pop-top. Any advice on removing them OR any advice on locking down this leak while they are in place (epoxying hold, redrilling, or sealing around the teak externally?

Thanks all!

JLC

James Loxley Compton
C-25 SR/WK #5999 Erebus
Orange Beach, AL

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
8996 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2019 :  21:36:37  Show Profile
Removing and re-bedding is the long-term (all things being relative) solution--and take your experience as a lesson not to use a polyurethane caulk. But when all else fails, there's Captain Tolley's...

It's clear, watery co-polymer sealant that, by capillary action, seeps into a tiny crack and sets up to a flexible seal. It's not a penetrating epoxy that will permanently bond things together.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/04/2019 21:42:05
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5208 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2019 :  07:13:21  Show Profile
Dave, thatís a nice stop gap remedy however I did something a little different when I had that same exact problem (same screw in fact).

I knew that I needed to pull off all my teak the following spring but I wanted to stop the water leakage ďnowĒ. I couldíve used a pry bar on the inside of the track to remove the piece to re-bed it, but I thought it would be better to do it in the spring altogether with the rest of the teak.

I noticed water pooling up on the inside of the slider board, in the track. And quite a bit.

Waiting until a few dry days in a row, I got a small tube of Life Seal polysulfide caulk, cleaned out all the debris in the slot with spray cleaner and paper towels, dried it with acetone and put a 1/4Ē bead of Life Seal caulk in the inner corner between the cabin top and the teak rail the entire length of the slider.

I wet my finger and formed a fillet in the joint to make sure the caulk worked its way in and protected the gap.

A few days later the caulk skinned over and cured and I could use it just fine.
That stopped the leak dead in its tracks.

Later in the spring, the rails came right off once I removed the screws. I used a paint scraper to pull the boards and remove the caulk.

When I refinished and remounted the rails, I favored a bead of caulk near the edge on the high side of the bottom of the rail. This squished out into the track slot area once I screwed them down.

Again I filleted the caulk with my wet finger. Knock wood the seal is still good after 3 seasons.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 01/05/2019 13:04:12
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Sailynn
Navigator

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USA
178 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2019 :  21:39:53  Show Profile
remove screws. take a skinny piece of wire (think piano string) and attach each end to a pulling device (wrap around a wrench or piece of wood) and insert wire at one end and saw back and forth to break bond. clean area re-drill larger holes and seal with epoxy. Drill new holes and use butyl tape as sealant. No need to goop up the entire rail as it is better let the standing water leak out away from holes and wood.

Lynn Buchanan
1988 C25 SR/WK #5777
Sailynn
Nevada City, CA
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
8996 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2019 :  09:13:20  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

Dave, thatís a nice stop gap remedy however...
...which is why I said "When all else fails" ...or if he wants to stop the leak now and do the project later. I'm famous for that--have been thinking about going to a Procrastinators Anonymous meeting some day, but...... (There'd probably be nobody there.)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3989 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2019 :  11:29:33  Show Profile
LOL, You think nobody would be there?? Heck I'll save you a seat.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5208 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2019 :  17:26:41  Show Profile
When I get around to it!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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Monomachos
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2019 :  17:37:51  Show Profile
Thanks, folks. Y'all are great. I took the pop-top off to try to be able to work on it more easily (in a shop at night). The teak sliders didn't want to budge even with a heat gun and some pressure. Eventually I'll have to use wire, I think. I think they were polyurethane'd or 5200'd mounted. I filled in the visible gaps with silicone, ran a nice little bead around each slider, then put screws back in with silicone on them. We'll see how it goes. Some of the dripping had gotten behind the plastic liner that covers the edge of the cabin at the deck when the pop-top is up. I pulled that to look at the plywood coring and it seemed fine. I did see a few holes in it (nothing from rot or spongey; just the way plywood is pressed) and filled those with some JB Weld plastic wood. Going to sand that down, seal it, and put trim back up. Spent the rest of the day chasing a leak at the bow. I think I have it narrowed down to a pulpit leg . . . I do not want to have to rebed a pulpit.

Also, over the weekend I fashioned some stainless steel backers for my jib sheet cleats (one was loose) and rebedded those. One bow mooring cleat was a bit loose and I noticed from below that they lack backers as well. Kinda surprising. I'll make some backs for those too. Onward and upward. Thanks, as always, for the help!

James Loxley Compton
C-25 SR/WK #5999 Erebus
Orange Beach, AL
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
8996 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2019 :  21:29:25  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by islander

LOL, You think nobody would be there?? Heck I'll save you a seat.

Thatís an indication you donít need it.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
820 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2019 :  06:52:04  Show Profile
quote:
One bow mooring cleat was a bit loose and I noticed from below that they lack backers as well. Kinda surprising. I'll make some backs for those too. Onward and upward....


James, I'd suggest a quick search in the archives for postings by Leon Sisson on making up backers from fiberglass mat and fitting them to the contour of the boat. Top-of-the-mark work.

Gerry & Leslie; Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972
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Erik Cornelison
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2019 :  12:10:01  Show Profile
Not exactly what youíre doing, but how to fill holes. I like Boatworks Today.

Link to his specific video. He may have one video on your exact problem, but I didnít search.

https://youtu.be/a1VUAaDKQ9c


Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234
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cat25
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2019 :  06:11:30  Show Profile
Used butyl tape to secure the hatch rails. Its going on three seasons since and no leaks.

Ken
Chenango~
1990~TR~WK~C25~#6022
Candlewood Lake, Ct
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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2019 :  06:51:41  Show Profile
I agree, if you can ever detach them. Butyl, Butyl, Butyl. Huge fan. The factory used it and it is still probably going strong on some boats.

Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

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