Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have hull number 3495 build in 1983 and has the aluminum porthole/window frames. When I got the boat I found them leaking - I tried the Catalina kit but do not like the design of the portholeand wondering if anyone has replaced them with something new
Modern sailboats commonly come with acrylic lenses that are glued in place in the opening. They are frameless. My C&C 35 had them and Catalina installed them in the last year or two of production. I never installed them, but I watched them being installed and think they would be a reasonably easy DIY project. Here's a link to a video showing how to replace aluminum framed windows on a Catalina. Based on my limited knowledge, don't try to make them fit too perfectly into the opening. Acrylic expands and contracts and they need space to do so. If they don't have enough space they'll crack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzJlmtQBXEw
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Steve - you may be onto something here with your idea. While it seems like a good plan, if you have to fabricate the acrylic panes yourself, that could be a challenging operation. You could remove the glass panes and trace each one of them around onto pieces of 1/4” or 5/16” acrylic sheets using a scribe or permanent marker. Based on your advice, you’d have to cut inside the lines to shape the panes. Then you’d have to fabricate some window frames out of teak or mahogany to cover the seams, both inside and out. You’d have to secure the panes in place using a material like butyl tape, polysulfide, or gasket material. I would NOT recommend silicone caulk or 3M 5200, since these typically result in a poor seal and are not durable. They’d fail after a few years and they’re devilishly difficult to remove completely. The window frames can be installed using 3M two-sided grip tape. It has a grip strength of about 30 pounds per square inch. But you only get one shot. If you can remove your glass windows in one piece, you could clean up and build up the openings with thickened epoxy. You could rebed them with butyl tape or polysulfide, and fabricate new window frames and stick them on with double-sided tape.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
I had the portlights on my C&C 35 professionally replaced. It was a two day process. The first day involved removing the old portlights and grinding out all the old adhesive. Removing the old Catalina portlights on a C25 will be relatively easy. There'll be no grinding, just removing old caulk and a light sanding. Installing the new portlights is the easy part. Each of us has our own comfort level working with power tools and doing this kind of work. I hired it done because I was living aboard, had never done the type of job or seen it done, and I needed to get the job done quickly so the boat would be livable. Without windows, heat and AC were unavailable and rain and dampness were problems. Everyone needs to decide his comfort level with the job.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Does anyone know if after removing the window frame, other than removing any residue sealant, are the surfaces configured so that an acrylic/plexiglas panel will seat flush on the surfaces? I am just not that familiar with how the surfaces are configured for the window frame and if identical to surfaces made up for acrylic/plexiglas w/o the frame. If no issues, then you may find the below link to info I have on my website helpful. My CAT25 has the acrylic/plexiglas panel installed directly onto the port surfaces and at time of boat production, the panels were held together by sealant and screws. Many years ago, I accidentally leaned my knee on one of the panels and a vertical crack resulted. I called up Catalina (Mfr) and they provided the necessary info, an acrylic/plexiglas panel cut to my tracing and the sealant. They indicated screws were no longer required and were more problematic developing cracks and so the sealant is only used, .
I found that the silicone sealant I initially sealed the crack has held up and so I never installed the replacement panel - It's still tucked away in my cabin in case I ever decide to use it.
Below is the link to the info on my website regarding re-installing the acrylic/plexiglas panel and contains the technical drawings provided by Catalina.
If the port surfaces on a Cat25 that has window frames is same configuration/surface finish/prep as those with just acrylic panel, then this info may prove useful. Note the drawings specify the Dow sealant utilized....not sure if product is still available.
I thought it was an acrylic panel but reviewing the drawings, the drawings indicate plexiglas. I believe acrylic is more brittle? I am going to check out that panel piece tucked away in my cabin (by next week) - see what material it is and I'll also compare to my existing ports/windows.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.