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Outboard shaft lenght

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buddha
Deckhand

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5 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/24/2026 : 12:32:31

I am replacing the outboard on my 250 and the manual recommends an extra long shaft. There is much more selection in long shafts. How important is having a extra long shaft?

Thanks
John

Catalina 250 hull 42

Ellen254
Deckhand

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15 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2026 : 12:37:21

You definitely want a longer shaft. Because the outboard mounts so high up on the transom, a shorter shaft isn't going to sit low enough in the water.

2004 C250WK #750 Waco, TX
"Ba-de-ya"

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 07/24/2026 : 21:09:46

I am not familiar with the mounting for a Cat250, however, based on what you indicated that the manual recommends an extra long shaft and also Ellen's comments, I would only consider extra long shaft outboards. My Cat 25 also has an xtra long shaft outboard.

The issue is that a shorter shaft outboard used on a sailboat, the outboard may not sit low enough in the water to ensure that adequate water is pumped for water cooling - It may suck in air. Also, while the prop may be fully in the water at the dock, it may not be low enough and then when applying the throttle, the prop will start to cavitate. This is also a real concern when you trying to make forward progress but have to deal with a wake, waves and whitecaps and the prop momentarily comes out of the water or cavitates in the water.

If you know for sure that the outboard you are considering does not have an xtra long shaft but has been used by others on a Cat250 and in similar waters as you, I would not consider it.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 07/24/2026 21:11:39

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 07/25/2026 : 06:36:06

When you're motoring to windward against a significant chop, the waves roll under the bow of the boat. As each wave rolls aft and under the stern, they lift the stern and that lifts the prop out of the water. The longest shaft will enable you to continue motoring to windward in bigger chop.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Voyager
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Response Posted - 07/26/2026 : 06:26:31

Honda, Tohatsu, Yamaha, Mercury, Suzuki, and a few other four-stroke 8 and 9.9 outboard brands come in XL shaft length.

In the parlance, Long Shaft generally means 20� (51 cm) while Extra Long Shaft means 25� (63.5cm).

Also, most 8 or 9.9 HP 4 stroke outboards weight around 100-120 pounds, while 2 stroke engines (gas mixed with oil) weigh much less and are easier to carry and mount. 2 stroke disadvantages include smoky operation, oil sheen on the water, and having to mix gas and oil in the correct ratio (e.g.: 25:1 or five oz of oil per gallon of gas).

Defender Marine stocks several brands, and may be a good guide for browsing features. These include electric start, powered tilt, etc.

In my experience, a good adjustable motor mount with an XL long shaft outboard will provide you with reliable power in almost any sea state conditions without fear of prop cavitation. When every second counts to avoiding disaster, you should never have to worry about your outboard not delivering for you.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 07/26/2026 06:36:15

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 07/26/2026 : 14:25:13

People tend to overestimate the importance of horsepower for a sailboat motor and underestimate the value of light weight. Because a sailboat has a displacement hull, a motor that is more powerful than is necessary to push the boat to hull speed is wasted. A Tohatsu Sailpro 6 is a 6 hp motor that will push a 25' boat to within about 1/2 kt of hull speed. It's a single cylinder motor and it's very stingy on fuel. 8 and 10 hp motors are 2 cylinder motors, cost a lot more than a Sailpro 6, use more fuel and weigh over 100 lbs compared to 59 lbs for a Sailpro 6. Its light weight means you can unmount it by yourself and carry it to your car for servicing. I had one on a Cal 25 on the Chesapeake Bay and it never failed to get me where I needed to go. There will be rare occasions when you won't be able to power to windward against a severe chop, and you'll have to turn and go back or go to shelter, but when it's that rough, you won't want to be out there anyway. I had to turn and go back once on a 28' sailboat with an inboard engine. That's the nature of small sailboats. A few people need that extra 1/2 kt, but most really don't.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Voyager
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Response Posted - 07/27/2026 : 06:09:53

Steve, you make a very good point on the 6HP Sailpro engine.
The power to weight ratio compared to an 8HP is a huge selling point.
Fuel economy is correspondingly better too.
With an 8HP, I can run at 5.2 kts for 1 hour and 15 minutes on a gallon of gas. I�d imagine that with a 6HP, you could run about 2 hour plus.
I definitely need help mounting and unmounting my 8HP. At 59 pounds, the Sailpro would be very manageable.
You can�t beat the price savings: $1800 vs $2900, smaller is smarter.
But it all comes down to trade offs - do you need that little bit of extra power in the most critical situations? Probably not very often. It�s really a judgment call�

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 07/27/2026 06:29:42

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 07/27/2026 : 07:03:15

I usually motored at about 5.5 kts (just shy of full throttle). The distance from my marina to Annapolis Harbor is about 30 nm. That used about one 3 gallon tank of gas. On a long passage I carried one or two extra 3 gallon tanks with quick disconnect fittings, so I didn't have to refill the tank from a jerry jug on the rolling boat. A 9.9 hp will drive the boat about 6 kts, but that extra speed will only help when motoring downwind or in smoother water. When motoring to windward against a chop, there's a point when the waves will lift the prop out of the water. That point will be the same for a 9.9 hp with XL shaft as for a 6 hp with XL shaft. When the prop lifts out of the water the extra hp will mean nothing. In that situation it's time to abort your plan, turn downwind and return to your starting point. In a day or two the conditions will change and you can complete the trip. The people who find the extra 1/2 kt most useful are people who sail on a river against a strong river current.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

buddha
Deckhand

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5 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2026 : 11:09:53

Thanks Ellen, Larry, Steve, and Bruce for all the good information on outboards!

Catalina 250 hull 42

Voyager
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Response Posted - 07/28/2026 : 05:41:04

You�re welcome John. Good luck with your decision.
Stev - my marina is upriver from the Sound, and the river current occasionally gets up to four knots! The 2 miles or so is a tough slog even with an 8 HP kicker.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 07/28/2026 : 06:16:36

quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

You�re welcome John. Good luck with your decision.
Stev - my marina is upriver from the Sound, and the river current occasionally gets up to four knots! The 2 miles or so is a tough slog even with an 8 HP kicker.

After our reservoir lake was closed in the fall, some of our sailors launched their sailboats in the Ohio River at Cincinnati to extend the season. They told me on a light air day the current could carry the boat faster than the sails could drive the boat, and the sails slatted. I saw commercial tugs use powerful engines to work against the current there and wondered how a sailboat could make much progress against the current. From the shore you could watch floating debris in the river and see how fast the current was. I suppose they stayed in shallower water where the adverse current wouldn't be as strong. I sailed on some rivers off the Chesapeake Bay, but never experienced currents like that.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Voyager
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Response Posted - 07/30/2026 : 05:56:21

Steve -
I�ve been sailing and docking Passage through that 2-mile stretch of river since 2006. It has some good and some bad features. Once I transit the river, then I�m out into Long Island Sound, where current is rarely greater than 1 kt.

The good is when you�re going WITH the tide, you can easily move at 8 kts so the passage takes under 15 minutes. When opposing river and tidal currents are the strongest, it can take almost an hour.

The river has taught me how to maneuver the boat in almost any docking situation, especially when winds are strong. That�s when it�s essential to have an outboard, since you can steer with both the rudder and the engine.

It�s not for the meek of heart, but once you learn it, it�s a great comfort.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
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Response Posted - 08/02/2026 : 13:25:47

Definitely get the Xtra Long Shaft, Yes they cost more but you would regret having just the long shaft every time the prop pulls out of the water going over a wave or a wake. just my opinion.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

GaryB
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Response Posted - 08/07/2026 : 01:07:47

Do any of you have the Tohatsu Sailpro 6? Toying with the idea of replacing my Suzuki.

Just curious what your experience is when backing up. Does it have a good bite in reverse? My 1989 - 8HP Suzuki has almost zero bite in reverse. Forward is great.

Overall opinion about the quality?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/07/2026 : 06:19:55

GaryB - Steve Milby described the many benefits of th 6.0 Sailpro in his 7/26 and 7/27 posts above. For anyone who�s in a lake or reservoir, it�s a perfect answer.
If however, you�re on a tidal river or something like Puget Sound with lots of 3+kt currents, it could be a little challenging�. But a totally viable solution.
I have a friend with a Wharram 26 ft catamaran who has the Sailpro. He sails out of Mystic CT. This week he�s out in Martha�s Vineyard. He loves the engine.
When he�s at his dock, he has to back out a few hundred feet into the main channel (since catamarans notoriously do not like to spin 180�). He�s never had a problem backing.
Sometimes with my Honda, if I try to back up too quickly, my aged engine mount will allow the prop to swing up out of the water. I can usually control it just by managing the throttle. Does your engine mount do this too, or is it something about your propeller that doesn�t quite work in reverse?

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 08/07/2026 06:28:15

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 08/07/2026 : 06:49:29

Small outboard motors typically don't have much thrust in reverse. It's the nature of the beast. Inboard motors have props with bigger blades. So-called hi thrust props are sometimes available, and I had one on a Merc 8 and didn't really think it helped. You can't use an outboard very effectively to serve as "brakes" because, if you increase the revs too much in reverse, the prop just cavitates. The remedy is to keep speed slow when docking so you don't have to brake hard with the motor, especially in reverse. As you can see from my posts, I'm an advocate for the Sailpro 6.(Not paid or connected to Tohatsu in any way. I just really like them.) They do everything you realistically need them to do, but most people don't really appreciate the value of their light weight until you have to mount or unmount them and carry them somewhere. It's a real convenience to be able to do it yourself. On a sailboat, horsepower is not king. Other qualities matter more.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Edited by - Steve Milby on 08/07/2026 10:37:12

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/09/2026 : 06:50:48

While Steve, you speak from your experience, I�ve found that my Honda 8 with a four-way propeller does a great job in reverse for my purposes.
Passage is berthed in a very tight marina, where my slip is way up at the end of a long fairway. When returning to the marina, I generally come about halfway up, then I need to spin the boat 180� in a small turning basin, then back the boat the rest of the way up into my slip.
I rarely proceed above idle speed within the marina, but when I turn the boat around, I need to maneuver the boat very precisely to avoid the nearby boats.
Once I get to 90� I have to slip the transmission into reverse, steer the engine tiller hard to starboard, then rev the throttle quickly to complete the turn. I also steer the rudder parallel to the engine direction.
Once the stern is pointed 180�, I can resume backing at idle speed into my slip.
While this is my standard move now, I still get interested onlookers watching boat throughout.
Like my car, I generally only use reverse for parking, but without a solid reverse on the outboard, I don�t think I�d be able to dock the boat as easily.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 08/09/2026 : 09:16:17

Each of us not only have different experiences, but we also have different expectations. Some expect their motors to turn tighter, back faster and cruise faster than their motors can deliver. We have to figure out how to get our motors to do what we need them to do, despite their limitations.

The slip for my Cal 25 was similar to yours. The fairway was so narrow that, when pulling out of the slip bow-first, I had to spring it out against the port side piling to be able to make the turn into the fairway. If I didn't I would hit the boat on the other side of the fairway.

Let me suggest an alternate procedure that might make it easier for you. This is how I returned to my slip, often singlehanded. I simply motored slowly, bow-first, down the fairway to a point just slightly past my slip. I put the motor in neutral, grabbed the piling at the entrance to my slip with a boat hook, and pulled the boat into the slip stern-first. Your rub rail will rub against the piling as you pull the boat into the slip, but that's what the rub rail is for. You don't have to rotate the boat or back under power. By using the boat hook, you have complete control over the speed and direction of the boat. The next time you leave the slip, you'll go out bow-first, when you can easily control the process.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 08/09/2026 : 18:05:03

Thank you Steve - I would do that if I had a finger slip with a piling at the end.
Instead, I have a boardwalk slip that runs parallel to the channel.
It would be possible for me to motor into the area next to my slip, stop the boat, and pole the boat to rotate it 180�, then push it over to the dock.
I could probably also use the engine to spin it in place next to the slip, but the space is a lot tighter than the turning basin down the way.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 08/10/2026 : 06:28:56

One other thought that might or might not be useful, In making a tight rotation in forward gear, if you steer the rudder in the opposite direction of the engine tiller (e.g. push the rudder tiller hard to starboard while pushing the engine tiller hard to port), the rudder will resist the boat from moving forward while the motor turns the boat.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Edited by - Steve Milby on 08/10/2026 06:33:15

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/10/2026 : 08:59:44

Nice!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 08/10/2026 09:00:35

GaryB
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Response Posted - 08/11/2026 : 04:13:33

Thank you guys for your input. I have the luxury of sailing in Clear Lake where my marina is located or I can go out into Galveston Bay. It all depends on the wind and how much I really want to travel the extra 15 minutes or so to get out into the bay. I can be sailing in 7 or 8 minutes if I stay in the lake.

My 8HP Suzuki will barely (and I mean barely) move my boat in reverse IF there is no wind. I've tried it at idle and then at other engine speeds and it just won't bite. I would love to be able to back into my slip but I can't. I have to push the boat out, jump on, try not to trip over anything, and quickly throw the motor in gear while turning it down the fairway. At 72, it's getting harder and harder to do.

Returning, I approach my slip slowly and a couple slips before mine I go to neutral and coast in. My fairway is decently wide but I've found if I stay closer to the side where my slip is located I can turn in as I get to my slip and IF I time it right I can turn and drift in without touching the finger piers, grab my port dock line, and stop without touching anything. It does help that I have a 12' X 32' slip with full width finger piers on both sides. LOL

The motor runs really well and pushes the boat great. I barely use more than half throttle most of the time.

My engine mount does not lift up and the motor is locked down in reverse so that's not an issue for me.

Steve - Do you feel your motor has more reverse than what I described above for mine? I'd really like the lighter weight of the Sailpro but if it doesn't do much better in reverse I don't want to spend the money.

It might just be time to admit I'm getting too old to single hand and move over to the dark side!

Ohh, one last thing... has anyone used Online Outboards? If you read their shipping info it sounds a little iffy as they don't seem to want to have any responsibility if the motor is damaged in shipping.
They won't allow you to refuse the delivery and it sounds like they won't get involved in helping you with the claim against the freight company, so if it is damaged and the freight company decides not to make it right you're stuck with a damaged motor.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 08/11/2026 04:22:43

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 08/11/2026 : 05:35:28

quote:
Originally posted by GaryB

Steve - Do you feel your motor has more reverse than what I described above for mine? I'd really like the lighter weight of the Sailpro but if it doesn't do much better in reverse I don't want to spend the money.

I can't compare the reverse thrust of your motor with a Sailpro 6. Tohatsu claims it is equipped with a high-thrust specialty propeller (8.375" diameter x 6.0" pitch) with larger blades and shallower pitch for better forward and reverse grip in water. I don't know if that's true or just sales talk, but I found my Sailpro 6 to have satisfactory reverse thrust and that I could back it in or out of a slip or brake with it within reasonable limits. It worked well for me on the Chesapeake Bay and on my local Indiana lake. I can't say whether it will work for you in your location.

Price-wise, they're considerably less expensive than any 8-10 hp outboard. The 8-10 motors have 2 cylinders and the Sailpro 6 has a single cylinder, which not only accounts for their light weight, but also for their lower cost.

FWIW, Mercury 6 and Nissan 6 motors are re-badged Tohatsu 6s, and Evinrude 6 used to be Re-badged Tohatsu 6s.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 08/11/2026 : 21:39:07

Gary,
I always back into my slip with my 2006 Honda 9.9hp. XLS. I believe it is a high thrust model. What I do know is that it has a 4 blade prop and the shaft is a thicker diameter than the some of the other 9.9 Hondas - When I change the water impeller, I have to make sure it is the larger diameter impeller.

I normally travel w/forward speed idling going past my slip and then coast a bit in neutral before switching to reverse - Definitely has reverse speed. Depending on the wind and direction, I may increase reverse speed a bit just so I stay in the middle waterway between finger slips and boats on each side and then back into my slip. When I initially go into reverse in the waterway, I rev the engine perhaps double idle speed (which is really pretty low) and soon after I am traveling in revers, I cut speed to idle speed or a tad higher and this is just a for a very short period (seconds), then as I am entering my slip, I switch to neutral and sometimes just shut off the outboard since my reverse momentum will bring me alongside.

Regardless if you have a 9.9hp or even down to a 6 hp, I would think that you should be able to affectively travel in reverse. It's not like revving the engine is necessary in reverse gear to travel in reverse even if against some ripples.. So, perhaps as Steve indicated, it has to do with the prop that is normally furnished with your Suzuki - 3 versus 4 blades, blade size and the pitch angle.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 08/11/2026 21:53:11

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/12/2026 : 06:21:55

Steve and Larry, good advice on your engines.
GaryB - being about your age myself, I feel your frustration getting into and out of the slip. Jumping and gymnastics, especially at the dock, is for the young�ns. No point breaking an or a leg, since that�ll end the boating season pretty quick.

Here are two suggestions for you to consider:

1. Replace your prop. It�s possible that you have a prop with an aggressive pitch on your current Suzuki outboard. Check the prop center hole inside diameter and the prop�s outer diameter, and see whether you can replace it with one that will better suit your purposes. At a few $100, it�s worth giving this a try, plus it comes in a much smaller box than a new outboard engine.
Steve, perhaps you can advise Gary on prop pitch, size, 3-blade vs 4-blade, etc.

2. Buy a Push Pole - you can largely eliminate the drama of entering, turning, hopping on, and maneuvering your boat at the dock if you use a push pole. You simply stand in the cockpit, or up on the deck, and you use the pole to push off the shallow bottom of the marina to move your boat in a more controlled manner. Depending on wind conditions, it should be a pretty low-stress way to position yourself at the dock.
It also helps to have a 12ft telescoping boat hook to grab the dock as well.

If your engine still has plenty of power and life left, then it�ll be better with the right prop.
If you�d prefer an extra long-shaft, by all means swap it out.
If your only reverse �use case� is docking, try the poling method.

It couldn�t hurt to try.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 08/12/2026 06:31:02

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/12/2026 : 06:50:06

Bing Co-pilot offers the following advice on Suzuki prop options�

Suzuki 8-HP Outboard Propeller Options
For the Suzuki DF8A 4-stroke (10-spline), there are several propeller choices from Solas, Rubex, and OEM, each with different blade counts, materials, and performance profiles.

Main Propeller Types & Models
1. Solas Amita 3 Aluminum � 3-blade, squeeze-cast for strength and performance.
Diameters: 9.25"
Pitches: 7R, 8R, 9R, 10R, 11R, 12R
Part numbers: 4111-093-07A through 4111-093-12A
Features: Thru-hub exhaust, pressed rubber bushing, no spacer needed Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

2. Solas Amita 4 Aluminum � 4-blade for better midrange and handling.
Diameters: 9.25"
Pitches: 7R, 8R, 9R, 10R, 11R
Part numbers: 4113-093-07A through 4113-093-11A
Features: Thru-hub exhaust, pressed rubber bushing Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

3. Solas Amita 4 High Thrust Aluminum � 4-blade for heavy loads or kicker use.
Diameters: 10"
Pitches: 5R, 7R
Part numbers: 4113-100-05A through 4113-100-07A Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

4. Solas Saturn Stainless � 3-blade, durable, efficient.
Diameters: 9�"
Pitches: 7R, 8R, 9R, 10R, 11R, 12R
Part numbers: 4121-093-07A through 4121-093-12A Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

5. Rubex 3 Aluminum � 3-blade, squeeze-cast, high acceleration.
Diameters: 9.25"
Pitches: 7R, 8R, 9R, 10R, 11R, 12R
Part numbers: 9111-093-07 through 9111-093-12
Note: Requires RBX-A40 hub kit Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

Choosing the Right Propeller
Acceleration vs. Top Speed: Lower pitch (e.g., 7R) improves hole shot; higher pitch (e.g., 12R) boosts top speed www.suzuki-outboard.com

Blade Count:
3-blade for speed/efficiency;
4-blade for stability and midrange www.suzuki-outboard.com

Material: Aluminum is lighter and cheaper; stainless steel is more durable and efficient in rough conditions www.captainpropeller.com

Load & Use: Heavy loads or kicker use benefit from higher thrust props (e.g., Amita 4 High Thrust) Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

Tips for Selection
Match prop diameter and pitch to your boat�s weight, hull shape, and intended use (cruising, fishing, watersports) www.suzuki-outboard.com

Ensure the prop fits your engine�s gearcase (2.5" for DF8A) and spline count (10#8209;spline) Solas and Rubex Boat Propellers.

For best results, have a marine propeller expert check your engine�s RPM range and load profile.
If you want the most performance for a lightweight boat, a Solas Amita 3 9.25" 8R or Rubex 3 9.25" 7R are strong choices. For heavy loads or kicker use, consider the Solas Amita 4 High Thrust 10" 5R or 7R.

Based on the advice given above, you�re looking for a four-blade with more thrust for a heavier boat.
Steve can probably suggest the best one.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 08/12/2026 07:42:17

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.