The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Here is info on another winter project. I replaced my lifelines.
Last fall, before covering the boat I removed just the lifelines on the port side. I figured making two identical sets would do it.
I was very methodical in making my two sets and when I went to install them this spring I ended up about one inch short on the forward starboard section. Thankfully, I had a neat little twisted stay extender from a previous boat I had parted out. This was the perfect size and if I don't blab all over the internet about my error, nobody will probably ever notice.
Anyhow, fair warning to all. These boats are not symmetrical.
I reused the turn buckle barrels and Pelican Hook bodies. Below is my parts list and a photo. I purchased these from Defender Marine.
Before replacing the life lines would you have considered using "Dyneema", instead of coated stainless steel wire.
I thought about it, but there is different expense involved in going that way. I did not want line lashings at the connection points. So, I would still have fittings to buy to be able to use Pelican Hooks for the gates, etc. It just seemed easier to stay with stainless steel lifelines. I already own the tools, so I did not have that kind of cost to add in.
Additionally, I had an experience with non wire lifelines. I was racing crew on a Melges 24. I was in the forward position. Two guys aft of me and then the skipper. The three of us crew were sitting facing out with feet hanging over the side. We were leaning hard against the lifelines to get as much body weight over the side as possible. I commented to my friend who was sitting in the next position aft of me, "We are putting a lot of faith in these lifelines." Just as he acknowledged my comment the lifeline broke and he and the guy aft of him went overboard. I thankfully was seated at a stanchion and had something to grab on to.
I know the C25 is different than the C250, but gotta ask why coated vs regular stainless? I replaced my life lines several years ago and was advised not to use coated as it contributed to by trapping water that could not evaporate and then hid corrosion. My solution was to use coated between the gates at the cockpit where someone might be leaning back against a life line. If I were to do it again I would go 100% non coated stainless and then use floating pool "noodles" only when sailing.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
The only good answer I have would be, personal preference. I figure what I had has been on the boat for 20 years. For longevity, regular stainless would probably be better. While some rust was showing. I replaced mostly for cosmetic reasons.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.