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First passage

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PeteD
Deckhand

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Australia
6 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/03/2024 : 04:29:52

Hello all
For those interested I have now delivered the yacht south to the marina where she will be kept over winter. I had never lowered the mast on a Catalina previously, neither had the help I roped in. This involved lowering the mast by hand, bow into a dock with the forward halyard, onto a crutch I constructed, each leg of the crutch fitting onto the gunwhale just aft of the quarter chairs and forward of the mooring cleat. Worked well. This was necessary as there are 3 bridges between the city of Perth on the Swan River and the port of Fremantle, each being around 8 metres air draft clearance.
The marina I was heading for is approx 100 NM from Fremantle, weather forecast easterlies around 12 knots which is perfect for the run south as this is an offshore breeze so close to land is fairly flat water. The forecast was correct for the first 6 hours or so however then the wind turned south and built to around 20 knots, also the seas built with the swell and a long fetch coming from the south. This of course was not ideal, especially when the port side genoa winch would not move, the lower rudder gudgeon broke (was just hanging on by the steering arm and 1 bolt), the genoa retrieving line got caught and was freyed to breaking point, the light was closing in and we were approx 5 miles from shore.
The solutions. On a port tack the jib sheet was led around the broken port winch onto the starboard winch, worked well. Rudder gudgeon we just took great care not to over stress this or create weather helm. I furled the genoa by hand by sprawling on the fore deck and winding in by hand. On a double reefed main and engine we headed for shore and a fortunately placed marina for shelter.
2 days later (St Patricks day in between created some fun shore side) and repairs to all of the above, the remaining 60 NM was completed on a double reefed main and genoa in approx 15 hours, breaking only the furler retriever again.
Summary- after my first longer passage on the yacht. Dry boat - hardly got wet at all even in head winds and seas. Sailed well on a combination of main and headsail reefed and double reefed, also just on a full headsail. Rudder system is tough (I have the helm wheel version) and fortunate there are 3 bolts in each gudgeon. Does anyone else have a problem with the furler line catching on the stainless steel cup that sits around the spool? It looks like its catching on this edge. I have seen other furlers which have a fair lead eye as the line passes through just before the furler. I had a new gudgeon made at a local fab shop which they completed exactly the same as the original in a day. The original had many hairline cracks around the 2 small gussets which support the top half - worth checking. I also ordered a new gudgeon from Catalina Direct which was about half the price of the one I had made. When this arrives in Australia I will fit this to the upper pintle and keep this original as a spare. I replaced the 5/16th phillips heads (I dont like these) with 8mm hex head bolts, I had to drill out the 5/16th threaded inside aluminium plate on the transom for 8mm to fit, secured with flat washers and nyloc nuts. Since arriving I have fitted a Garmin chart plotter sounder into the starboard side cockpit bulkhead, securing the transducer under the forward fresh water tank with toilet seal wax as has been suggested, seems to work well. I also put 10 x 10 litre fresh water jugs as far forward as possible under the vee berth, handled well and altered the boats trim to suit the anti foul lines.The other weight aft I was concerned about was the waste tank which was full (from PO). There are no vacuum pump out facilities at my marina and I was surprised there is no other way to empty this tank. Has anyone made a modification to the transom mounted whale bilge pump pipework so this could be used when offshore to pump the waste tank? Anyway I used my shop wet vac to empty this and disposed of in the marina toilets. This also helped with the boats trim.
I hope this is of interest to some and hope to see some feedback on the above issues.
Safe sailing.
Pete

Thankyou,
Regards,
Pete
2008 Catalina 250 WK HN-969

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9014 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2024 : 13:12:11

Interesting passage, and good job dealing with the complications (the last seeming to be the worst)! It is normal to have a block or fairlead positioned to set a proper angle of the furling line into the furler drum--that is, perpendicular to the drum axis. This is not just to eliminate chafe from the cover, but also to help the line coil evenly on the drum, not bunching up toward the top or bottom as the sail is pulled out. (Light tension also helps.) Assuming you have the original CDI furler as on most C-250s, I'm surprised the appropriate block or lead wasn't there.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

PeteD
Deckhand

Members Avatar

Australia
6 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2024 : 16:30:53

Thanks Dave
The furler is the original CDI with the stainless steel cup. There are the fairlead eyes over the coach roof, the most forward one being just aft of the anchor locker latch. I just assume this is correct and original?
I also would like more luff tension on the headsail, I have not seen this type before where the halyard runs back down the foil.
Next time I have the sail out I will have a close look at the furler as someone else rolls it away, I will also check the luff tension and see if I can get a bit more on the halyard, any tips on this?
Thankyou.
Pete

Thankyou,
Regards,
Pete
2008 Catalina 250 WK HN-969

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2024 : 17:19:20

I can't speak specifically to the C250, but generally there are two ways to increase tension on a forestay. You can either tighten the forestay turnbuckle or the backstay turnbuckle. If you tighten the backstay turnbuckle it will slightly increase weather helm. If you tighten the backstay turnbuckle it will slightly decrease weather helm. If the forestay is too slack, it will limit the ability to eliminate forestay sag by increasing halyard tension.

The C250 manual recommends that the mast be raked 4". I suggest you adjust either stay as needed to maintain a 4" mast rake, while tensioning the forestay properly. The stays should never be bar-tight. I have always used the standard that a 50 pound push should deflect the forestay about 1" at shoulder height, but, after you sail the boat in about 10-12 kt winds, look at the forestay. If it is sagging too much, tighten it a bit.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

PeteD
Deckhand

Members Avatar

Australia
6 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2024 : 17:45:13

Hi Steve
Thankyou for your reply, the forestay does not have a turnbuckle, however I think you misunderstood me. Forestay tension is fine, it is the luff tension on the headsail I want to increase. I suppose this could be done by pulling the tack down further or by increasing headsail halyard tension (normal way). I just havent seen this type of furler before with the halyard running back down the foil of the furler to the furler drum and just tied off.
Pete

Thankyou,
Regards,
Pete
2008 Catalina 250 WK HN-969

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2024 : 20:08:18

Here's a link to the owner's manual for a CDI furler. On page 12 there's a paragraph on "Luff Tension." Maybe that will help. According to the manual, luff tension doesn't need to be adjusted, because the luff tape and the foil will prevent scalloping. I haven't had a CDI furler but I have had other makes, and it's true that the luff tape and foil significantly prevent scalloping. In fact, for racing, sails on a foil can't be powered up for light air and off the wind as effectively as hanked on sails for that reason.

There is a turnbuckle under the furling drum, so mast rake can be adjusted. To access it you have to disassemble the furling drum.

https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/FF2-Online-Manual.pdf

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9014 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2024 : 11:57:23

Yup, CDI's internal halyard is sort of the brand's unique feature, I guess with at least one benefit being the elimination of halyard-wrap issues that can damage the forestay. I never had a CDI, so I'll drop out here. (But my C-25 had that damage when I bought it--apparently somebody had misrouted the halyard to the furler swivel.)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/04/2024 11:59:01

Dave Brown
Navigator

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USA
174 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2024 : 15:53:55

Hi,
Nebraska here, a land lock sailor I be.

The boat sits nose up from the factory, a friend bough one of the first boats, and had a long
conversation with the factory about this, and how the rudder needed to be changed.
AKA, the difference in rudders and handling. He was told to rake the mast Forward, not aft,
To improve the handling. Well, being in the Midwest, we did it our way. Gen 3 rudder, ( its kicked
Under the boat ). Kinda like you do on a Hobie to make them steer easer..
Mast, keep it straight, And add Ballast to the front of the boat. Anywhere form 80 to 160 lb.
Ballast counter acts the number of people in the cockpit, and keeps the boat on its water line.
But don�t over do, otherwise, water runs into the boat when it rains. It�s a dance, to find
out what works for your boat. With the forward nose now in the water, and the boat on its
water line, the boat now will stops wallowing in the water, and sails a straight line.
As for the rest of your Q. Seems like you have them figured out.
DB. #411

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