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Owners Manual (New)




4.0   YACHT SYSTEMS

4.1   RIGGING:

         STEPPING THE MAST:

         Caution: The mast and other metal parts conduct electricity.
         Coming in contact with or near an electrical power line or lightning
         can cause severe injury or death. Stay away from overhead electrical
         power lines when sailing and/or launching the boat.

         When trailering your boat always try to undo as little rigging
         as possible. Before lowering the mast, it is only necessary to
         undo the two forward lower shrouds and the forestay.

         1.    Before raising the mast, make sure halyards are neatly
               tied down and that they are on proper sides of the spreaders.
               You should never attempt to raise the mast unless the upper
               shrouds (those that pass over the spreaders) and the aft
               lower shrouds, are attached to the deck fittings and the
               turnbuckles are well "started· into their barrels by at
               least 3/4 of an inch. The turnbuckles must not be completely
               tightened however, because slack is needed in the shrouds
               to enable the mast to be fully raised. The backstay should
               be attached to the transom chainplate.

               The upper shrouds, aft lower shrouds, and backstay will
               keep the mast from falling over when it is raised. therefore,
               all of these must be attached to the chainplates before
               the mast is raised.

               Check that the spreaders are secure and that spreader boots
               or tops are secure.

         2.    Make sure that the shrouds and stays are not fouled. Backstay
               should lie clear of the transom. You may step the mast
               on land or while the boat is in the water. It seems to
               be easier on land because the boat is stable. Also, it
               keeps other sailors from getting impatient while they wait
               for you to move out of the launch area.

         3.    Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the tabernacle
               located on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center
               line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut.

               At this time. you should check that all the mast lights
               are functioning properly.

         4.    One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to
               the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks
               from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach
               the forestay and forward lower shrouds.


                                                
               IMPORTANT:  Be careful not to twist the mast or allow
                           it to move to one side of centerline while
                           raising the mast, as this may cause the mast
                           step to break.


   4.1.2  TUNING THE MAST:

         Your mast is help aloft by the standing rigging (forestay, backstay,
         upper shrouds, fore and aft, lower shrouds). The term "tuning"
         refers to adjustment of the standing rigging so that the mast remains
         'in column" (not bent) when under load. This is accomplished by
         following the procedure outlined below:

         AT THE DOCK:

         1.    Adjust forestay and backstay so that the mast is straight
               up and down. Tie a holt to a 6 to 7 foot long piece of
               light line to make a quick plumb bob, and tape the free
               end of the line to the front of the mast as high up as
               you can reach. This device will help you to determine
               whether the mast is perpendicular or not. Otherwise, sight
               your mast with a corner of a building.

         2.    Adjust upper shrouds so that the mast is straight up and
               down athwartships. That is, from side to side as opposed
               to bow to stern.

         3.    The upper shrouds should be firm but not far apart. A
               50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about 1"
               at shoulder height.

         4.    The lower shrouds (4 of them) should be adjusted so that
               they are looser than the upper shrouds. While at dock.
               they should have no slack. but no tension either. No lower
               shrouds. when pushed. should deflect the mast more than
               any other shroud when pushed equally hard. If this cannot
               be achieved, the upper shrouds are too tight. Back off
               one half turn at a time on the upper shroud turnbuckles
               until the tension of the lower shrouds is brought into
               balance.

               IMPORTANT:  Final tuning of the mast depends on local con-
                           ditions and the cut and set of your sails.
                           Consult your dealer or sail maker for advise.
                           More detailed information on this subject can
                           be found in Wallace Ross' ·Sail Powero, published
                           by Alfred A. Knopf in New York.

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4.1.8  MAIN SAIL REEFING:

         Reefing should always be done before it becomes necessary. Some
         sailors use the rule of thumb, if the thought of reefing occurs
         to you, it is time to reef. Sailing at extreme angles of heel
         - 25 degrees or more, is not efficient. fast or comfortable.

         The Catalina 25 is equipped with jiffy reefing (also called slab
         reefing) for reefing the main sail. The system consists of a cheek
         block mounted on the starboard, outboard end of the boom. A cleat
         is located on the mast below the gooseneck. for reefing the luff
         of the main.

         Run the reefing line through the cringle (grommets) in the luff
         and leech of the main sail in preparation for reefing. Per illustration,
         one crew stationed in the cockpit and one crew at the mast are
         recommended for fast, safe reefing.

         REEFING PROCEDURE:

         1.      Take up slack in main boom topping lift, cleated to port
                 side of boom.

         2.      Release the main halyards to a predetermined point. Marking
                 the halyard with ink or a colored thread woven into the
                 line is helpful. Re-cleat the halyard after lowering.

         3.      pull the luff cringle down to the gooseneck by pulling
                 the luff reefing line through the cleat on either side
                 of the mast. By pulling the line up through the cleat.
                 a 2:1 purchase is created on the luff. Tie off the luff
                 reefing line when the cringle meets the gooseneck.

         4.      Ease the mainsheet and boom vang.

         5.      Pull the leech cringle down to the boom by pulling the
                 leech reefing line on the starboard side of the boom, and
                 make the line fast

         6.      Trim in the mainsheet and boom vang.

         7.      Snug up the main halyard, as required, to flatten out the
                 main sail.

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4.2 ELECTRICAL;


    4.2.1  BATTERIES:

         Your electrical system is powered by a marine grade 12 volt, deep
         cycle. 90 amp hour battery. Attention should be given to maintaining
         the proper level of distilled water. Do not overfill. The batteries
         are located behind the companionway stairs.

         The batteries are provided with a tie down to prevent tipping over
         at extreme angles of heel. Be sure these tie downs are fastened
         securely.

         with proper care. the battery installed in your Catalina 25 will
         provide long and satisfactory service. Proper care is not difficult.
         if a few basic points are kept in mind:

         Your battery should be examined periodically for any cracks or
         breaks in the case or cover, and any cracks in the sealing compound.
         If there is any damage, the battery should be repaired at once.

         WARNING     The electrolyte in a battery is a solution of sulphuric
                     acid. If any should enter the eyes, rinse immediately
                     with large amounts of fresh water and seek medical
                     attention. Electrolyte spilled on skin should be rinsed
                     well with fresh water also. Even a small amount of
                     electrolyte spilled on clothing will destroy the clothing.

         ELECTROLYTE LEVEL:

         The electrolyte level in a battery should never be allowed to fall
         low enough to expose the plates. This not only results in a loss
         of battery capacity while the battery is low, but will cause hardening
         of the active material on the battery plates. This will result
         in a permanent loss of battery capacity.

         CAUTION!    Use only pure distilled water to replenish electrolyte
                     levels. The water from many city water supply systems
                     is unsatisfactory for battery use.


                                          
CHARGING THE BATTERY:


         Before adding water. a hydrometer reading of the battery should
         be taken. If the reading shows the battery to be above 1.225 specific
         gravity, the battery has a sufficient charge. If the reading is
         below 1.225, the battery should be removed for bench charge.

         IMPORTANT:  Do not leave your batteries on charge for more than
                forty-eight (48) hours. If there is no rise in voltage
                or specific gravity in a period of two hours, further
                charging is useless and may damage the battery beyond
                repair.

         Once charged. the battery should have a specific gravity of at
         least 1.260. If this cannot be reached, the battery should be
         inspected by a battery supplier.

         The batteries should be checked often to ensure that they do not
         run down. Check that all battery cells keep an even fluid level
         and that the fluid is about 3/8" above the top of the separators.

         If one or two cells have lower fluid levels, it is a good indicator
         that something is wrong with the battery, and it should be checked.

         DISCHARGED STATE:

         Leaving a battery in a discharged state for any length of time
         can also result in a permanent loss of capacity for the battery.
         Since it will freeze at relatively low temperatures, leaving it
         in the cold can destroy the battery.

         CLEAN CONNECTIONS:

         Keep the battery connections clean and tight. A cupful of strong
         baking soda solution and a toothbrush will clean corrosion from
         the terminals and neutralize any spilled acid. (Do not allow any
         of the solution to enter the battery cells). A coating of petroleum
         jelly on the battery terminals will inhibit corrosion.


4.2.2  ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:

    The Catalina 25 is equipped with a standard 12 volt DC system and
    an optional 110-115 volt AC system. The wiring is run to prevent
    chaffing or contact with water, where possible. and is supported
    as needed. we recommend that you check all the connections at
    least once a year for corrosion. loose fittings. etc.

    DC - 12 VOLT SYSTEM:

    The DC system is powered by one deep cycle battery located under
    the forward part of the aft quarter berth. The optional battery,
    when ordered, is located next to it. The DC electrical system
    is controlled by a main breaker panel with switches for running
    lights, interior lights and accessories. The interior lights are
    also controlled by individual switches on the lights themselves.

    The Catalina 25 with outboard engine has no method for recharging
    the battery. Always ensure that your battery is fully charged
    before setting out on a trip. See section 4.2.1 for more informa-
    tion on care of your battery.

    MAIN DC CIRCUIT BREAKER:

    Operating switches for lights and accessories are located on the
    main switch panel. The main circuit breaker will automatically
    trip to the OFF position in the event of an overload to the circuit.
    If the breaker trips to OFF, the cause should be determined and
    any necessary repairs should be made before repositioning the circuit
    breaker switch to ON.

    Before purchasing any electrical accessories for your boat. ensure
    that they are compatible to a negative ground system.

    The electrical panel is located at floor level, adjacent to the
    galley. It is attached with screws which can be easily removed
    for maintenance access.

    IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batteries before opening
           the panel, or severe injuries may result.

    All wires, terminals and connections should be checked periodically
    for loose connections or corrosion which could cause high resistance.
    electrical sparks or fires. The engine accessory wiring should
    also be checked at this time.


    NAVIGATION LIGHTS:

    Navigation lights should be used in accordance with the rules and
    regulations of the waters in which you intend to sail.

    Generally, navigation lights should be used from dusk to dawn in
    all weather conditions. It is advisable to use the navigation
    lights any time visibility is poor.

                                           
Your Catalina 25 is equipped with the following navigation lights:

         (a)   Red and Green 112.50 combination lights mounted on the
               bow pulpit.

         (b)   White 1350 stern light mounted on the stern pulpit.
         (c)   White 225" steaming light mounted on the mast.
         (d)   White 360" anchor light mounted on the masthead.

         (a) and (b) are wired to the bow light switch on the panel. (c)
         is wired to the steaming light switch, and (d) is wired to the
         anchor light switch.

         When underway by sail. the bow light and stern light must be used.
         When underway by power, the steaming light, bow light and stern
         light must be on. At anchor. the anchor light should be on.

         AC - 110-115 VOLT SYSTEM:


         The llOV AC power system depends upon the boat being connected
         to a 110V-30 amp shore power connector. The factory option offers
         a 25' shore power cable which should be plugged into the 110v inlet
         on the boat (located in the cockpit) and into the shore power connector
         on the dock.

         IMPORTANT: TO MINIMIZE SHOCK AND FIRE HAZARDS

                 1.  Turn off the boat's shore connection switch
                     before connection or disconnecting the shore
                     power cable.

                 2.  Connect the shore power cable at the boat first.

                 3.  If the polarity warning indicator is activated,
                     disconnect the cable immediately.

                 4.  Disconnect the shore power cable at the shore
                     outlet first.

                 5.  Close the shore power inlet cover tightly.

                 6.  DO NOT ALTER THE SHORE POWER CABLE CONNECTORS
                     IN ANY WAY. SEVERE INJURY MA'I OCCUR.

         Care should be taken to support the shore power cable at both ends
         to allow sufficient slack to avoid pulling. Remember to allow
         for the tide.

         The AC panel is located next to the DC switch panel. This panel
         controls the llOV switch outlets. The master circuit breaker controls
         AC flow in the boat. When no llOV AC is in use, or when connecting
         and disconnecting the shore power cable, this circuit breaker must
         be turned OFF.


The master breaker switch is 30 amp, two pole. There are two (2)
llOv outlets, one located by the quarter berth and the second located
in the galley. Be certain that all 110 volt appliances, other
than lamps, have an adequate grounding connector. Wet feet or
moist atmosphere increases the potential shock hazard.

There is a reverse polarity indicator on the panel. With all switches
off, attach the power cable to the inlet. Next, attach the power
cable to the dock outlet. If the reverse polarity light comes
on, DISCONNECT THE CORD IMMEDIATELY! This indicates a reverse polarity
situation which is very dangerous.

WARNING:  Do not open the electrical panel for any purpose with
      the shore power cable connected to the dock. 210 volt
      wiring is exposed when the panel is open. Contact with
      110 volt wiring can cause electrocution. Electricity
      is dangerous. Even when safety devices are present,
      handle with care and use reasonable caution.

GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTER:

G.F.I. receptacles are designed to provide protection against electrical
shock hazards due to line-to-ground faults. Although the G.F.I.
receptacle does not limit the magnitude of the fault current. and
therefore cannot prevent electrical shock, it does limit the duration
of the shock to a period considered safe for normal healthy persons.
G.F.I. receptacles will provide protection against ground faults
only. They will not protect against overloads or short circuits.
There is no known device that will guard against the electric shock
hazard resulting from contact with both the 'hot' and neutral wires
of the electrical circuit.

The llOv AC outlets in the Catalina 25 are protected by the G.F.I.
receptacle. If there is a power failure which does not affect
the fuse or breaker serving these outlets, unplug all cord-connected
appliances from the protected outlets and restore power by pressing
the red RESET button on the receptacle. Push the RESET back in
and reconnect the appliances one at a time. Any defective appliance
will trip the button and should be repaired at once.

If the appliances are all disconnected, and the RESET button will
not stay in. call a qualified electrician. If the RESET button
does not pop out when the blue TEST button is pressed, PROTECTION
IS LOST. Do not use any of the outlets and call a qualified elec-
trician immediately.

IMPORTANT:  Your Ground Fault Interrupter Circuit should be tested
       regularly. Use the following steps:

       1.  Push the blue TEST button. The red RESET button
         should pop out. Power is now out at that outlet
         indicating that the circuit is operating properly.


                                      
2.  If the button does not pop out when testing,
                     do not use that outlet. Protection is- lost and
                     a qualified electrician should be called.

                3.   TO restore power, push the RESET button.
         PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
         This consists of periodic inspection and protection against any
         damage created by the elements. Electrical systems are adversely
         affected by moisture and a salt-air environment.

         The system can be protected by the application of aerosol sprays
         such as WD-40 or CRC. All wire harnesses and connections should
         be checked periodically to ensure that fastenings are secured and
         that everything is clean with no sign of damage or corrosion.
         It is extremely important that all connections be kept clean.

         WARNING:  Do not perform any maintenance or repair on a live circuit.
               Do not turn the main DC switch off while the engine
               is running. This could cause damage to the alternator.

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4.3.2  MANUAL BILGE PUMP:

       The manual bilge pump is located in the port cockpit locker. Insert
       the handle through the water-tight fitting in the cockpit to operate
       the pump.

       The pump intake hose (1" inside diameter) is in the bilge under
       the main cabin sole.

4.3.3  SEACOCKS:

       All underwater through hull fittings are equipped with seacock
       1/4 turn valves. It is good practice to close all seacock valves
       when leaving the boat. especially for long periods of time.

       To close seacocks. turn clockwise 1/4 turn. To open, turn counter-
       clockwise 1/4 turn.

       It is good practice to operate the seacock valves at least once
       a month to keep the seals lubricated.

4.3.4  MARINE TOILET OPERATION:
       USING THE HEAD:
       1.    Read the instructions supplied by the toilet manufacturer
             for operating your marine toilet.

             These instructions are also printed on the toilet pump
             housing. Be sure everyone who will be using the head is
             familiar with these instructions.

       2.    Immediately before using the head, the inlet valve "A"
             must be opened. This provides flushing water to the toilet.
             The valve should be kept closed when the head is not in
             use. This will prevent water from flooding the boat if
             the valve in the toilet pump should fail.

       3.    waste will be pumped directly into the holding tank when
             the bowl is emptied. A minimum amount of water for every
             flush should be used in order to take best advantage of
             the tank's capacity between pump-outs.

       4.    The condition of the holding tank should be checked from
             time to time. Overfilling can cause the tank to burst.

       5.    To clean the head, use hot water and soap. High strength
             cleaners may cause damage to the valves and seals in your
             pump system. If there is any problem with the head, it
             should be corrected immediately.


                                        
EMPTYING THE TANK THROUGH THE DECK DISCHARGE PLATE:

         1.    The holding tank should be emptied via the deck discharge
               plate only at approved shore-based pump-out stations.

         2.    Remove the cap from the deck discharge plate. The threads
               on the plate cap should be periodically coated with silicone
               spray or petroleum jelly to ensure a good seal.

         3.    The pump-out station suction hose should form a seal at
               the deck plate.

         4.    Be sure inlet valve "AO is closed when the tank is being
               emptied.

         5.    After the tank is empty, you may wish to open valve "A"
               and pump some water through the toilet and into the tank
               to dilute residual sludge and rinse the tank and lines.

         6.    Close all valves after the tank is emptied, and recap the
               deck plate.

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4.4.1  RECOMMENDED OUTBOARD ENGINE:

       An outboard engine of 7.5 to 15 horsepower should be adequate to
       propel the Catalina 25 at hull speed under usual conditions.

       n larger engine will not increase hull speed and may add additional
       unnecessary weight in the stern.

       Long shaft engines are preferable, however, standard length shaft
       engines should be adequate for most conditions.

4.4.2  OUTBOARD BRACKET:

       The factory installed outboard bracket is spring loaded to assist
       lifting and lowering the engine. It locks in both the up and down
       position. To release the lock in either position, a downward pressure
       is applied to the handle while lifting or lowering the engine.
       The motor should not be lifted clear of the water while it is running.

       While under sail, the motor should he kept in the raised position
       and tilted forward so that the propeller is clear of the water
       to eliminate unnecessary drag.

       The motor bracket manufacturer recommends that an 18 H.P. maximum
       engine should not be exceeded.

       Danger - the spring assisted bracket must not be raised or lowered
       without an engine in place. Should the bracket be released without
       an engine the upward force of the bracket could cause serious injury.


                                          
4.4.3  GENERAL ENGINE INFORMATION:

           For a complete description of your engine, please consult the guide
           supplied by the engine manufacturer. This can he found in your
           owner's packet.

           Two points are worth special attention. Firstly, marine engines
           work under conditions tougher than those of automotive engines.
           Your marine engine faces constant torquing not encountered on the
           highway. For this reason, you must change your engine's crank
           oil as recommended in the engine manufacturer's guide. Secondly,
           before using your engine. the shaft coupling must be adjusted within
           a tolerance of .003 (thousandths of an inch) T.I.R. after launching.
           This is done during commissioning of the yacht. se sure that your
           dealer has made this adjustment before using your engine.

           Change the oil regularly. Keep spare parts and alternator belts
           on hand and use only 2/3 to 3/4 throttle on long passages. Keep
           your fuel tank full whenever possible to prevent water condensation
           in your fuel tank.

           To retard electrolysis. we recommend installing a zinc collar immediately
           on the propeller shaft when the boat is to be used in salt water.

    4.4.4  FUELING:


           The fuel system of the Catalina 25 is illustrated. and consists
           of fuel tank, fuel suction and return lines. a fuel filter on the
           engine, and an electric fuel pump controlled by the engine key
           switch, a deck fill plate, and an overboard vent through the transom.

           Refer to the Universal Engine manual provided for recommended fuel
           type. A diesel engine does not require an ignition system and
           is superior to a gasoline engine in dependability.

           This depends on the clean fuel being supplied to the engine since
           the close tolerances required by the engine's fuel delivery system
           make it intolerant of dirt or water contamination. The engine
           is supplied with primary and secondary filters that prevent contaminants
           from reaching the engine where they could cause damage. However,
           a clogged filter, although providing this protection, can also
           stop an engine. Keeping the filters free of dirt and water is
           critical.


BEFORE FUELING:

1.      Extinguish all smoking materials and check around the fueling
        area for other sources of spark or flame. Remove if found.

2.      Shut off the engine and any electrical accessories or devices.

3.      De-energize all electrical equipment by turning the selector
        switch to the off position.

4.      Close all hatches and ports.

5.      Ensure that a fire extinguisher is readily available.

6.      Ensure that the proper (diesel, not gasoline) hose is about
        to be used.

WARNING: Do not fuel during an electrical storm. Besides the
     obvious hazards of lightning, the possibility of static
     discharge is greatly increased at this time.

FUELING PROCEDURE:


1.      Remove fill pipe cover using a proper teal.

2.      Place nozzle of fuel hose in the fill pipe. Keep the nozzle
        in contact with the deck plate rim during fueling to avoid
        the possibility of a static spark.

3.      Fill slowly. Do not overfill. If it is not possible to
        see the meter on the fuel pump. the attendant or a crew
        member should call out the gallonage from the fuel dock.
        Filling the tank to only 95% of capacity will avoid overflow
        problems on a hot day.

4.      Replace cover, clean up any spilled fuel. If any rags.
        etc.. were used for this purpose, dispose of them ashore.

5.      Check below decks for presence of fumes or fuel leakage.
        Check bilge, engine space, and main cabin. If fumes or
        evidence of leakage are found, determine the cause. correct
        it and clean up any spillage before proceeding.

6.      Open all hatches and ports to ventilate the boat.

7.      Switch on battery.

8.      The engine should be started only when it is certain that
        no potentially hazardous conditions exist.


                                   
4.4.5  FUEL SANITATION:

         BACTERIAL CONTAMINATION:

         Bacterial contamination of the diesel fuel can cause problems.
         The bacteria needs both water and fuel to exist, and thrive at
         the fuel/water interface in a fuel tank. As they multiply, they
         form more water and a tilter choking brown slime. Their presence
         will not be known until tough weather churns up the fuel tank causing
         clogged filters at the worst possible time.

         Keeping water out of the fuel will prevent the problem entirely.
         However, a certain amount of water, due to normal condensation
         in the tank, is to he expected.

         FUEL ADDITIVES:

         Fuel additives or fungicides provide another means of combating
         contamination. Additives break the water down to a molecular level.
         dispersing it throughout the fuel and allowing it to pass harmlessly
         through the fuel system. Several brands of this product are available
         at marine stores.

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