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Flipper Pump Installation

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T O P I C R E V I E W
JoeRobertJr	Posted - 06/10/2020 : 17:14:48 I am installing a new Whale Flipper pump in the galley. When removing the old one, I was surprised to see nothing between the base of the pump and the counter to keep water from wicking under the pump. I am tempted to run a bead of silicone caulk around the base. What have others done?
6 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
JoeRobertJr	Posted - 06/11/2020 : 17:34:12 Thank you all for the helpful feedback. I installed the new pump today, and used butyl tape. I had it handy, and figure if it does not hold up, I can fall back to another option without a painful cleanup first. I was mostly concerned that butyl or plumbers putty would not stand up to the counter being wiped down regularly. No doubt, my First Mate will let me know if it does not hold up to her standards!
Steve Milby	Posted - 06/11/2020 : 09:33:21 I looked at a Whale pump online and it appears to have a metal plate over the bottom. Plumbers Putty and similar caulks would certainly work, but butyl tape also comes to mind as an equally good choice. It never hardens and is easily removable. I think there are lots of good alternatives. Just don't use 3M 5200.
Lee Panza	Posted - 06/11/2020 : 09:12:04 Joe: You can think of this pump installation as similar to installing a hardware component on an exterior deck. There's already plenty of advice on bedding hardware available in our archives here, as well as on the Internet at large (some of it is even good advice), but the fundamental principal is to place the bedding material on the bottom of the pump housing before you set it in place rather than trying to seal the joint after the unit is installed. You want the material to be WITHIN the joint between the housing and the countertop surface, like a very thin gasket. Applying an external bead after the unit is in place only seals the joint as long for as the material adheres tightly to both surfaces. Silicone is notorious for losing its adhesion over time (although it can serve effectively as a custom gasket). Polyurethane materials, on the other hand, tend to adhere so well that they make removal of the component difficult. By the way, although this advice comes too late for you, Joe (sorry), those Whale pumps are easy to rebuild with kits from the manufacturer and I can attest that it's easy to do; mine have been trouble-free ever since I did them years ago. Another issue with polyurethanes, as well as polysulfides, is that they can chemically attack many plastic materials over time. Silicone would be fine in this application. Apply a bead just around the perimeter of the bottom but don't do the entire surface or it will be much more difficult to remove the unit later. For this reason, I wouldn't apply the caulking to the cylindrical pump body or to the hole in the countertop that it passes through as one would with deck hardware bolts. After the unit is set, some of the material will ooze out, but it will be easy to trim off after it has firmed-up. Or do like what Scott just posted. Should work fine and it would be easier to remove later.
islander	Posted - 06/11/2020 : 06:38:32 Use what the plumbers use, Plumbers putty. It does the job and is easily removed if needed. Here's a situation that doesn't require the product to be "Marine"
JoeRobertJr	Posted - 06/11/2020 : 05:33:14 Thanks, Dave. That sounds good.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 06/10/2020 : 19:12:32 That's what plumbers (are supposed to) do in houses--otherwise faucets attract seepage to the space below. For ease of removal at some later date, I'll suggest Boatlife Life Seal (a silicone-polyurethane hybrid) in place of plain silicone.

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.