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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Electrical Panel

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[quote][i]Originally posted by OLarryR[/i]
[br]I installed a  BEP 8 breaker/switch panel in front of the sink , many years ago. It was part of a number of mods/improvements at that time - Mast and switch panel rewiring, installed fans, DC Accessory plug, etc.  My old switch panel still operates some loads that I decided not to transfer to the new panel - DC Accessory plugs, VHF radio and the fish finder.  The new panel made it easy to access primarily the Nav lights and steaming lights without leaving the cockpit area.

My website has the switch panel/electrical improvements, detailed.  The BEP was primarily selected because I liked the switches, how they fit in the panel and also needed a panel that the internals did not protrude too far inside so there would be sufficient clearance with the sink bowl.  Since BEP is an Australian mfr, you buy it primarily from a few USA distributors that sell their products. I cannot recall who I bought it from years ago, it may have been Defender. But these days, Defender has a limited number of BEP panel styles and so best to check with others like: Hodges Marine, Discount Marine Sppliers, etc.  Rcmd check with BEP Marine, directly, to see if you are interested in their panels. They are not cheap.  I purchased the BEP 901H and they still sell that 8 breaker panel but it is likely to cost over $200.
[/quote]

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T O P I C R E V I E W
Erik Cornelison	Posted - 08/15/2019 : 15:35:03 Anyone have links to electrical panels? Going to replace my original 1986 with similar type unit. Yes I looked at Catalina Direct, just looking for other options. Prefer circuit breakers vs. fuses. P.S. Just looking for a standard replacement, nothing extra fancy. Erik
11 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
Gunner	Posted - 09/18/2019 : 17:27:40 Hi Erik, Earlier this summer I was going to replace my panel as well, mostly to combat the rats nest behind the panel and thinking I didn't have enough spots to plug everything in. My battery had accessories wired right to it by previous owners, and there were some poorly done merrett and/or electrical tape connections behind the panel. I changed my mind and ended up keeping the old panel and I'm really happy with what I did instead. The first stage was to clean up all of the negative connections, so I added a larger negative bus bar near the back of the panel. In the second stage, I ran three switches (running, cabin, accessories) to three respective Blue Sea fuse panels like buddy showed in the picture above. And then from there you have specific fused circuits running to each respective device. I decentralized the Accessory fuse block by moving it to another location aft on the boat with a negative bus-bar nearby. The Cabin fuse block got moved as far to port as I could put it- where all of the original cabin lighting comes out. I also added a couple USB plugs into the cabin that are all run to this fuse block. I was so happy with the finished result. The back of the panel looks clean and organized and mostly everything has a label right at the fuse blocks. The ONLY extra thing that's added to the battery posts (other than the what's supposed to be on there) is a "Blue Sea #4356 12 Volt BelowDeck Panel" that I wired directly to house battery. I have one of these mounted right under the sink and with a flick of a switch I can see the house battery's capacity. Some say it won't be as accurate as a proper Vctron battery monitor (~$500) but for $400 bucks less it's good enough for me. Cheers!
Stinkpotter	Posted - 09/03/2019 : 17:35:04 A little color to the case for fuses... We were a few miles off the beach, outside of the kelp bed off San Diego and about five miles from home port in Mission Bay, when we started smelling plastic smoke coming from the cabin of the other guy�s C-25�not a sweet smell in that situation! I went below, and the smoke was coming out of the galley cabinet. We shut off the battery and found the �dumpster� was also full of smoke. But it began to dissipate. So with an escort we raised on the handheld radio (a case for handhelds), we continued about an hour to home. The culprit turned out to be wires that chafed inside a screwed-down wire tie, and a who-knows-how-old breaker that maybe should have popped, but didn�t. Now I will never rely on circuit breakers in a boat. They fail now and then on our shore power panel at my condo complex�s dock�age and salt air... In a house, they are more protected but should be �exercised� occasionally to make sure they work freely. Car companies and most boat builders don�t use them any more�blade-style �automotive� fuses are the things. They just don�t fail to open when they should, And you can easily match the protection on each circuit to its usage. It should be no more than what is specified by the equipment maker(s). Stay smoke-free out there! (�Where there�s smoke.........�)
OJ	Posted - 09/02/2019 : 21:18:02 https://www.bluesea.com/products/1200/12_Volt_DC_8_Position
Erik Cornelison	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 14:25:38 Great responses folks, thanks so much. Any other idea's let me know. I got some researching to do. Erik
redeye	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 11:28:15 << just looking for other options >> I added a blue sea systems fuse block in addition to the panel that is on my 1984 Catalina 25. It is used to provide unstitched power to circuits that have switches for fused uninterrupted power like my depth finder, and bilge pump. using blade type automotive fuses. mounted under the stairs out of the way but I can still get to it easily.
islander	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:44:38 quote: Having experienced circuit breaker failures in marine environments, I personally favor fuses. I have to agree. I've never had a fuse fail on me but I've had to replace that 30amp shore power breaker. The only upgrade I did was to sister another panel to the original panel to get more available fused circuits.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:10:35 Having experienced circuit breaker failures in marine environments, I personally favor fuses. They don't fail to open, and their trip-point does not vary with age or exposure. And I can easily put the correct fuse into my switch panel based on the usage on a particular circuit. (I realize the back of the panel in the C-25 dumpster isn't as easy to access as mine in the head.) I do have to carry spare fuses, but I have not had to replace one yet in my current 12-year-old boat. But that's just me. I know there are lots of circuit breakers out there... I have two of these switch panels.
OLarryR	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:02:32 I installed a BEP 8 breaker/switch panel in front of the sink , many years ago. It was part of a number of mods/improvements at that time - Mast and switch panel rewiring, installed fans, DC Accessory plug, etc. My old switch panel still operates some loads that I decided not to transfer to the new panel - DC Accessory plugs, VHF radio and the fish finder. The new panel made it easy to access primarily the Nav lights and steaming lights without leaving the cockpit area. My website has the switch panel/electrical improvements, detailed. The BEP was primarily selected because I liked the switches, how they fit in the panel and also needed a panel that the internals did not protrude too far inside so there would be sufficient clearance with the sink bowl. Since BEP is an Australian mfr, you buy it primarily from a few USA distributors that sell their products. I cannot recall who I bought it from years ago, it may have been Defender. But these days, Defender has a limited number of BEP panel styles and so best to check with others like: Hodges Marine, Discount Marine Sppliers, etc. Rcmd check with BEP Marine, directly, to see if you are interested in their panels. They are not cheap. I purchased the BEP 901H and they still sell that 8 breaker panel but it is likely to cost over $200.
OLarryR	Posted - 08/16/2019 : 08:56:46 Duplicate deleted
keats	Posted - 08/15/2019 : 18:10:20 I like the Catalina Direct panel because it fits the existing opening and gives you some extra circuits. The bus bars, like Leon linked to below, are a must and are much handier than the drilled and tapped copper bars used originally.
Leon Sisson	Posted - 08/15/2019 : 16:50:41 Re. electrical panel similar to original 1986 but with circuit breakers. A couple years ago I installed a complete new electrical system in a Catalina 22, which originally had an electrical system and panel similar to a stock Catalina 25. (About 5 switches w/fuses, mounted low where it was inconvenient to use, and likely to be exposed to feet and dampness.) In the relocated new switch panel, I used rocker switches with LED indicator lights, and push button circuit breakers. Both the switches and breakers fit in common size round holes in a panel up to maybe 3/16" thick. If you search Amazon for "push button __ amp circuit breaker" specifying the capacity you want, you should find several examples. The ones I used are screw terminal (which I strongly recommend) from Blue Seas I think. If you go with spade lug circuit breakers to save money, I suggest soldering wires directly to the terminals. Example of push button circuit breaker with screw terminals: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DH35VJC] Examples of the oval rocker switches with LEDs: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRMHSV2] [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J0PFX3Y] Note that the similar looking round rocker switches require rectangular holes. At the switch lugs I soldered wires long enough to reach the nearby circuit breaker and terminal strip (and ground bus bar for the LEDs as I recall). Crimp terminal kits with hot glue lined heat shrink insulators: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC8WR8L] [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB2JWVT] Screw terminal strips, 8-circuit: [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000S5Q2VS] Examples of common bus bars with screws: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WGGMLV] [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9P4ZY] [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JF5LF1Z] For marine grade electrical wire, I use Ancor or Lawrence brand. I think Defender sells Ancor by the foot.

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.