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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The motor is a 82 or 83 Honda 10 hp long shaft (model # is B100L). I started it up after a long period of storage. Started on the first pull after I cleaned the carburator. Water ran fair initially and then turned to just a trickle.
I guess I need to replace the impeller. My manual is not real clear on how to separate the lower unit. Some one had mentioned that the shift linkage needed to be disconnected up by the power head but the manual talks about spliting the linkage down where the lower unit separates.
I was hoping that someone has done this job on a similar motor and could advise on all the ins and outs
Look on the side of the lower unit casing for a round rubber cap about 1.5" diameter. If your motor has this cap, you disconnect the shift rod by pulling the cap off and disconnecting the coupler under the cap. If you don't have the rubber cap, you have to disconnect the shift rod up in the powerhead where it connects to the shift lever linkage. You will need a pair of long needle-nose pliers or needle-nose Vice-Grips, a steady hand, and a lot of patience. You might have to remove an electronic coil or some other widget to get access to the shift linkage and cotter pin. Once the shift rod is disconnected, remove the 4 bolts under the anti-cavitation plate that hold the gearcase onto the lower unit housing. Be careful, use Liquid Wrench, and don't use too much force on the wrench. On an older motor that has been used in salt water, these bolts may be heavily corroded and very hard to unscrew. You don't want to strip the threads or break off the bolt. If it won't come loose with moderate torque, let the Liquid Wrench soak in overnight and try again the next day. OInce you have the gearcase off, you will see the black plastic waterpump housing on top of the gearcase with a short, square driveshaft sticking up through it. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump casing on the gearcase, again being careful to not strip threads. To reassemble, use a little wheel bearing grease on the new impeller vanes to give them some jubrication for the initial startup. Wire brush any corrosion off of the 8 bolts if you haven't already done so. Reassemble everything using a dab of greas on all the bolt threads to make it easier to seat them without excessive force. Remember that you are threading them into aluminum, not steel, and that it doesn't take much excess torque to strip threads in aluminum.
" Water ran fair initially and then turned to just a trickle. "
It may not be your impeller at all.. blow a little air or water up into the 'pisser' (indicator hose). It's very common for a piece of crud to get lodged in the hose and shut off the flow.
Doug, If the 10 HP is anything like my 8HP there is also a bearing underneath the impeller housing you should inspect as well. I used a slide hammer to pop mine out when I replaced it. Bearing was only $8. Honda sells the new impeller with new gaskets as well. There is also a rubber bushing which seals the connection between the water intake tube and the engine coolant tube. Inspect it as well. Take it apart and inspect before you go down to buy parts or you will probably end up making two trips. Joe
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.