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Boat Ramp Question

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/27/2006 : 07:57:52

I have never used my trailer to put the boat in the water, but I may be doing that soon. I was wondering how deep the water needs to be before she will float off the trailer.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Siefken
'84 SK/SR #4654 "Nicosha"

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 08:18:57

Bunks, pads, or rollers?

Edited by - on

wmeinert@kconline.com
Past Commodore

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USA
353 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 08:51:01

I have a swing keel and I have found that 4 feet of water will usually work very well, If you have a tounge extender you'll usually be fine. I have always used the bass boat rule. "If you wittness a bass boat with a 150 HP engine hanging off the back of the boat and they can launch it with the motor down, so can you".

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5853 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 10:15:06

It depends on the type of trailer. If it's a trailer with rollers on swing arms, the depth of the water has to be a few (5-6) inches deeper than the boat's draft at the point where the boat actually comes off the trailer. The swing arms on that type of trailer move the boat back and down as it rolls off the trailer, so the wheels don't have to be deep enough to float the boat.

I launched my fin keel 25 (4' draft) from a roller trailer without a tongue extension. Usually 4-5" of the tops of the trailer's fenders were still above the water, and the bottom of the boat was still a long way from the water, but when it rolled off the trailer, it floated. You have to know how steeply your ramp descends. Without a tongue extension, you have to be very careful, because there's a considerable risk of launching your trailer and tow vehicle as well as the boat, so a tongue extension is highly recommended.

If you have a fixed bunk trailer, I'd have to guess that you'd want about 15-18" more depth than the draft of the boat, measured at the wheels when the trailer is submerged. You'll know you are deep enough when the boat floats clear of the aft ends of the bunks.

Edited by - on

bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 10:55:20

I have a fin Keel, and a 25ft extension, and it takes all of the extension and tires in the water to float my boat. But trailer does have alot to with it.....this is my rig. I think with a few more tweaks in my system and trailer, I could trailer her once or twice a year...lol..much more would be too much work unless It was really good reason to go there...cheers

Good luck,

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 13:36:10

I don't claim to know much about trailer launching, but I'd guess one could get a rough estimate of depth required to launch by measuring the height from the pavement to the boat's waterline at the trailer wheels. I agree the type of trailer and ramp angle are also big factors. I've seen small power boats dragged up onto roller trailers so tall, the boat was nearly out of the water before the tow vehicle started up the ramp. I wouldn't count of that working with a C-25.

-- Leon Sisson

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bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 16:22:28

You can crank a certain amount of the boat onto the trailer, but when you have more wieght out of the water, well...it just stops moving...
I also thought of one more conisderation that I dont often think of. The vehical you launching or recovering with. I have a 4x4 truck with big motor and low end tourq, but if you pulling 6,000lbs of boat up a step ramp with possable wet tires, and if there is any moisture or gravel at all you could have some problems. The lake I am on there is gravel at the top of the ramp, and if I had not had 4x4 locked in I would have been spining may not have got it off the ramp. So I would look at recovery site and consider vehical I recover with, shouldnt be a problem just pulling the trailer out. Ha,ha, and dont forget about the mast, thats another consideration, some ramps will have that dastardly power line running high enough to clear most things but not a 27 foot mast on top of a sail boat on a trailer...I am past 30 ft with her on the trailer...well good luck.
cheers, Barry

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 16:45:21

In my case, if I can't get the forward most pads completely submerged, I don't launch. My problem is that the waist of the boat is wider than my rear most pads, so if the boat isn't floating well at the stern, the waist of the boat will hang up on the rear pads, and that makes for a bad day. I look for steep ramps and deep water. One of my plans is to make up a weighted line that defines the triangle between my wheels, the waterline and the length of my launch strap. Toss the line out as far as it will go, if the float is bobbing, you've got enough water, if not don't launch (or worse, rig <i>& then</i> not launch). Right now I just sound the depth with a big bolt on some line off the pier & eyeball it.

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 11/27/2006 : 19:29:20

I retrieved our swinger this fall in real crappy conditions. Wet gravel ramp, tiny dock, low water.
I backed the trailer in as far as I could using about 4' of my tongue extension to give me a little extra reach, but still the top rollers were above water.
And...I had no problems. I cranked up the keel and drove right up on the trailer to about 18" from the bow roller and used the winch to bring the boat right up to forwardmost contact point.
Leon has the right idea, if you measure from the bottom of your keel to the waterline - you have the basis of your answer.

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georgiaboater
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2006 : 20:00:50

There is no real easy way to launch that sucker. Everyone is right about determining/guaging the depth of the water and angle of launch pad....it's a good idea to determine how far the solid ramp goes down into the water too...in other words....where is the drop off point for the ramp....lol

Size and muscle of the launch vechicle is important also.

We have a Ram 1500 van with a 350 engine and water cooled transmission and are still reticent to launch ourselves...thank goodness our friend who lives near the water with his big disel dual wheely still owes us a few favors.

Edited by - on

bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2006 : 20:47:40

Marshall making sure ramp is long enough is key, but I was still off the ramp, lucky for me the ramp goes straight to rock and no big drop off, and I had 4x4 hemi to pull it up the ramp.
Also make sure of overhead obstructions...thats why I am on a shorter ramp darn power line kept me off the good one at my marina, I had to go over to yacht club, there ramp is nice but not as long....

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2006 : 18:33:28

The trailer has rollers. The truck I would be using is a buddy's F350 4*4. He has used this to tow a 10,000 pound trailer before, so I am sure it has the towing capacity including heavy duty breaks. The ramp is entirely concrete and I am not too worried about losing traction.

My problem is the tounge extension. While there is one, it is not clear to (this knucklehead

) me how it works. Any ideas where I can go to find this out?

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5853 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2006 : 18:56:40

Tongue extensions are rigged in different ways by different trailer manufacturers. Can you post a photo of yours?

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bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2006 : 22:09:48

Or you can just build one, I had mine fabricated at a welding shop cost me $500, but I needed it, when I left Kansas I didnt want to have to depend on anyone, and I also knew that there where no extensions in Ky at the lake I was going to. You can see in the pic in my last post that I have two small tires with a ball mounted on the top, (use wheels n tires) then the boat hooks to the, on the other end of the extension I have a coupler that hooks to the ball on the Truck. What I do is back the truck and boat down the ramp till the tires of the trialer are about a foot or so from the waters edge, the stop and chock the trailer, I use 4 chocks to be safe, then disconnect the trailer pull truck up and get the extension off the trailer, hook the boat up, then truck to extension. Now I unchock and back the whole thing down into the water, backing can be tricky, but as long as its in thats what counts. Now before I make sure engine is running and then back away from triler....might be a good idea to have a buffer between boat and trialer...but it apears you have a SK, you shouldnt need near the rig that I have....well any way good luck happy sailing, cheers
Barry

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2006 : 23:28:58

I use no extension with my EZ Loader roller trailer and only about 30 inches of water is needed. The winch brake with a handle in neutral lowers the boat into the water but only after first removing the safety chain at the winch. The retrival is the same depth and the 2 speed winch can pull the boat up onto the trailer and hooking up the safety chain. Have enjoyed this system since 79.

The friends with the fix keel C25 with a pad Trail-Rite trailer, the depth needed is at least 5 feet so a rope extension is used. The trailer is backed down the ramp to the waters edge, blocked and with the chains to the vehicle still connected and the 3/4 inch line attached, the trailer is unhooked from the ball (the truck is eased back about an inch to take the pressure off the hitch so the trailer can be lifted off without a sudden pop or someone jumping up and down on the back of the truck). The wheel is attached to the front of the trailer and the trailer is lowered on to the wheel at the tongue and the truck goes up the ramp to pull the 3/4" line until the blocks can be pulled from behind the trailer wheels. The boat is unhooked from the trailer and the launch happens. Sometimes with the skipper aboard or lines to pull the boat over to the dock. The retrival is the reverse except for our friends who in their 80's have a tractor seat mounted high on the trailer which I made so that the skipper's wife can ride now down the ramp and ready to grind the winch to pull the boat up to the post and never get wet.

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2006 : 08:11:07

Bear, I was studying your photo of your 25' tongue extension, really neat.
But then I took a few moments to think about it.

You are one heck of a good driver! If it were me I would be stopping and thinking out every turn I made as I backed up that baby, that extra pivot point (above the tongue support wheels) must make it a hoot to reverse

So I guess you line up the boat on the ramp, detatch, drive forwards, hookup the extension, then reverse really carefully

Paul.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2006 : 09:14:44

gravity

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2006 : 13:18:46

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">gravity<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I'm guessing that if he has to use the 25' extension, then the ramp is so shallow that it has to be pushed down the hill!

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2006 : 17:07:53

Here are a few pictures. First is the "starboard" side of the trailer.

Here is the "port" side of the trailer

Here is a picture of the end of the extension. Looks like to me the bolt patterns don't match up. What am I missing?

Thanks,

Edited by - on

bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 12/04/2006 : 11:59:18

Yes, park on ramp detache and hook up and then back very straght, I have done it 4 times...works ok....yes ramp in shallow, but not really bad, its that darn keel...lol..which I love very much for its stabilty it gives....but now that I am back in KY where the wind is light and variable..its a curse..lol..but I dont plan on staying here for ever....well cheers every one...Oh by the way if your reading hear and ahave seen my post on shelf..please take a look, I am looking for some good ideas,,,,well later

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 12/04/2006 : 20:38:27

Be aware that long extensions might be a problem if you have a ramp with a lot of breakover. You can get hung up on the transition from level (parking lot) to ramp.

My 10' extension (effective length) barely clears on our ramp here.

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bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 12/04/2006 : 21:47:23

I know, I was off the ramp here when I pulled our this year, but was lucky good transition from lake bed to ramp...but have seen what your talking about...thats scary. I dont drive around with the extension hooked up, right before going into the water, or right after pulling out I stop and disconnect the whole rig.... that mess just dont steer with the multiple piviot points...its just for backing into water and pulling out...thats it.
cheers

Edited by - bear_tm4 on 12/05/2006 21:25:44

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