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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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When you trailer your boat somewhere, do you take the outboard off? I have taken it off for longer trips, but then on a few shorter trips I started just leaving it on the boat. I have a 9.8 tohatsu.
Do you leave the outboard on the boat when you tow it on a trailer, or do you take it off?
--Skipper of the Unsinkable2 http://blog.unsinkable2.com 1977 Catalina 25 SK/SR #246 "Unsinkable 2" 1964 Lido 14 #1878 "Tomato Sloop"
There was a thread sometime in the last year that discussed this and as I remember most folks (but not all) leave the motor on and bungeed or tied of the lower unit to keep it from bouncing around on bumpy roads.
I do not remove the outboard but I do secure with lines up to the stern pulpit and a set of pvc pipes to the mount and rudder gudgeon. The last long trip did find that it could still jump up to the mast so improvement needs to prevent this. Rough roads everywhere. Engine is too heavy to fuss with and is safer in place than in back of pickup.
Today's 4 strokes are too heavy to remove. We've had our C250 for over three years now and the outboard has never been removed. In that period we have over 3,500 miles of towing with it. On a C250 the outboard is clamped to the transom, not a motor mount. Our outboard has never moved a bit. I have seen Jim Sweet's setup to stabilize the outboard (he has a C25 with a motor mount) and it is a very nice setup.
I second the too heavy to remove , but for peace of mind I would put a backing plate for the motor mount. I think Catalina only used some fender washers. Many of the members have done this as an upgrade.
My 9.8hp Tohatsu is on a Garelick telescoping mount. The mount has a built in stabilizer you can connect when it's all the way up that locks it in place. When I installed it, I mounted the Garelick with two 1/4" x 2 x 2 wider than the bolts aluminum plates (one on top & bottom) to distribute the load on the inside of the hull, and a 3/8" piece of HDPE or UHMW (can't remember which, it was a cutting board) about an inch wider & longer than the entire mounting plate on the outside. As far as I can tell, the engine has never moved while trailering.
We traveled, during the last few years, well over 35.000 Km (20.000 miles) with the 8 hp 4 stroke on the back. To have piece of mind a strong line is used as back-up should anything happen. It is connected from the motor to the fuel tank stanchion on the C250 WB
Good point Henk. I use a wire cable routed the same way. Even if the engine should manage to fall off, it'd be dangling off the stern. A number of things would have to go wrong to get to that point, but it's not out of the realm of possibility.
With a Honda 9.9, all it took was one good pot hole, To brake the spring lift motor mount bracket. With a safety cable I’ve been nursing it along for a year and a half. I’ll need to replace it with a heaver four spring lift for this motors. I will definitely be remove the motor for any extended trips. It will be chip insurance, for next summers San Juan Islands trip,to remove the motor.Just my 2 scenes worth.
I use an OMC pneumatic assisted lift with a backing plate, run a line to the stern rail and one to the trailer from my Mercury XLS Bigfoot (big lower unit, heavy motor). It has worked without a problem for 2000 miles a year.
Besides a backing plate inside the transom, I added a 1/2" Starboard "fronting plate" (?) on the outside, extending well below the bottom of the bracket where it applies the most force to the transom. I never trailed the boat, but I'd certainly want that outside plate if I did.
My old Tohatsu 8 isn't too heavy when lifting from behind the boat while on a trailer. I don't know if the hull/mount is strong enough to hold going down the road, but I'd hate to repair the severe damage that would happen should the mount pull through the hull. I'm just not going to risk it. But that's me....
I do. No need to tempt fate on California roads nor do I wish to destroy the motor mount which was recently resprung at Garhauer Marine in Upland, CA. for far less than a new mount. I also use one of their lifting dammits (davit) which works really well to get the heavy motor to the ground or back up on the mount. A lot of money, yes, just to lift the motor but motors and backs are a bit pricey, too. Now, to finish the bottom paint job and go put the boat back in the water soon after a year out.....
This is all great advice - thanks you guys. Sounds like I'll make a couple of modifications to my transom at the motor mount, and rig a couple of straps to stabilize it while towing.
Lifting that thing on and off the boat was an athletic event that I always feared would kill someone...
On the general subject, once after having my boat (fin keel) lifted out and set on stands, I enlisted a friend to help me get the Honda 8 (newer version) off. We took two step ladders... and almost killed ourselves! (I <i>think</i> he's still a friend...) After that, I got a yard guy to put a pallet on a forklift, lift me on the pallet up until the skeg was on the pallet. I released the motor from the mount, and then he lowered me and the motor to the ground. Piece of cake!
If I lift my Honda 10 or Tohatsu 9.8, I can lift it myself, barely, but if it gets hung up on anything I am in trouble, so I usually have someone standing by to help lift and help guide the outboard as its lifted or maneuvered.
The book says my Merc weighs 111 #, but I suspect that it is closer to 120 #. It is awkward and heavy, and it is difficult to get your body in an anatomically good lifting position to control it in that you must lift and manipulate it over your head if the boat is on the trailer or leaning over the stern rail if you are in the cockpit. My old 2 cycle was 30 # lighter, but the 4 cycle was still a good trade. The greater gear reduction and bigger gears and bearings of the Bigfoot is also worth the few extra pounds.
You all must travel and/or store your boats in safe places. I had an outboard stolen off the motor bracket at a state park once . . . and once is my limit. But, I am also blessed with many friends who help one another rig and de-rig each other's boats!
My old British Seagull 40Plus (with the recoil starter) weighs about 40 pounds, but spews oil (8:1) and drips gas from the reservoir float.
And it only develops 3 HP, so I could never get anywhere near hull speed, or power against the current in the Housatonic River when it is at full current.
While this engine is light and an unkillable motor, it has long been time for it to retire.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I had an outboard stolen off the motor bracket at a state park once <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ah, something I hadn't considered. A very good reason to lock it in the cabin when traveling.
After a round of motor thefts at my old lake, I chained and padlocked it to the motor mount. The chain not only discouraged theft, but it also served as a safety chain, in case the motor came off the mount, while trailering or otherwise.
I suppose climate also influences this decision . . . Pittsburgh winters can get pretty cold and (in my head at least) can't help but wonder if there might be some <i>long term</i> consequences to letting a motor sit out in below freezing temps.
Randy, that is a nice lock - I somehow missed that article. I guess I will spend some more money sine I had a motor stolen in a state park about 10 years ago. One theft is enough.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.