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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Asymmetrical Spinnaker

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WindDancer
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/31/2012 : 20:32:00

Hi,

I would like some feedback from members who have installed or are thinking of installing an asymmetrical spinnaker with or without a dowsing sock to a C250 WB or WK. Specifically, how difficult was it to rig? What did you have to do to get the halyard in front of the fore triangle, ie installing a block on the mast, running lins, and what was your location for the blocks for the sheets etc.

Secondly, how did the boat handle with an asymmetrical spinnaker, good, bad etc.

Lastly, where did you purchased your sail and equipment

Thank you,

Bruce

Bruce and Suzette
Five O' Clock Somewhere
2006 C250WB #861
Clearlake Ca

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2012 : 14:40:50

We purchased the sail and sock second hand from two different people on the forum. Total cost $500.00 plus about $100.00 for sheets, halyard and some other lines. The block is attached to the sock by using the masthead standard available space. Seems no problem when using the sock since the head of the sail is connected inside the sock.

Since we have on our boat a raised mast carrier, mounted and attached about 12" above the pulpit for horizontal transportation of the mast, I fabricated an experimental, removable bowsprit protruding about 24" or so from the bow. This was done to project the sail further forward and thereby providing greater clearance for the foot and tack of the sail.

The general feeling on the forum was that without the obstruction to freely fly the sail a bowsprit is not really required. Raising the tack a few feet would be sufficient. However, I do like the bowsprit and it worked fine. The only handicap is that in order to access the anchor locker the bowsprit needs to be removed which can be done in a matter of minutes but does complicate the process somewhat.

We love having the sail on board and have used it... it is like the turbo on a diesel and will surge the boat forward. It takes a little practice to gibe but is lots of fun.

Oh... by the way... I wouldn't want to fly that spirited piece of canvas without being able to douse it quickly and my commodore agrees wholeheartedly.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2012 : 15:27:41

That came out nice Henk !!

Edited by - on

crystal_blue
1st Mate

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USA
58 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2012 : 20:03:34

Sean, Arlyn Stewart rigged his boat for a drifter that I thought looked interesting - see his website at http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/sailing/drifter.html .

--Jim

Edited by - crystal_blue on 06/01/2012 20:03:57

SEAN
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2012 : 02:32:14

thanks Jim Arlyn has a nice set up too !!

Edited by - on

WindDancer
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2012 : 10:38:01

Henk,

Thank you for the information, your rigging looks great. Where did you connect your sheet blocks? Can you send any pictures of how your rigged your lines i.e. sheet blocks, halyard, pendant line etc.

Thanks,
Bruce

Edited by - on

ruachwrights
Captain

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USA
258 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2012 : 10:51:11

Thank you for your work on this. This is truly a doable looking functional looking mod. Does the bowsprit also attach into the forward pulpit somehow?

Vern

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2012 : 22:00:33

Thank you for your comments Bruce and Vern. Making the sample bowsprit from just a 2x4 and 1x4 crating hardwood left-over lumber coated with some paint was actually fun to try and see if it would do the job. It did well enough.

The contraption comes apart quite readily at the joint, fitted/braced between the stanchions and holding the bowsprit in place with one single 1/4" bolt and wing nut with a red bottle cap to prevent hitting it with your toes. The bowsprit is also bolted to the fore-stay deck connection with a single 1/4 bolt with wing nut for quick removal. The bowsprit down-haul is tensioned and simply connected to the boat's tow eye and can also be removed at an instant.

I'm not impressed with the fact that it eliminates access to the anchor locker when in use and we'll have to come up with a different design keeping somehow the deck and anchor locker clear. Any suggestions...

Color coded green/red sheets are led back outside of the standing rigging to blocks attached to the stern stanchions as per Arlyn Stewart's outline.

Edited by - on

ruachwrights
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
258 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2012 : 08:13:00

How do you connect and disconnect spinnaker from mast to bow sprit? I have a secondary jib halyard that's not doing anything at the moment. Do you think I might be able to rig that up somehow?

I'm wondering if hinges with sliding bold latches found on garden doors might do the trick. You could hinge the cross bars (port and starboard) and the bow sprit (near the bowsprit) so that the whole thing could fold up with a quick release of the sliding bolt latches and rest against the bow pulpit for anchor access. When ready to sail again you could simply close anchor locker, fold down the cross apparatus back into place and lock it flush by sliding the bolts back into place and latching them down. I know clearance is pretty tight for the anchor locker though. Worth a thought or two maybe.

Vern Wright
Hajime

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2012 : 21:46:50

Your spare halyard should do fine for the dousing sock and sail... we rigged it according to the outline provided on Arlyn Stewart's website http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/sailing/drifter.html . Additional coaming mounted winches are a must. We are in the market for a pair of second hand winches.

Thanks for your ideas, we'll explore it a little more. Another concept might be to utilize the port/starboard deck/hull joint cavity area for bracing. Since most if not all marinas charge by the foot the bowsprit has to be removable or be prepared to pay the extra charges

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 06/10/2012 : 08:14:55

On JD, I installed the CD Mast Crane to move the Aysm Halyard away from the top of the furler. Despite that, the Aysm Halyard can get wound around the furler if the haylard is not drum tight.

I have a Tack block on a lanyard tied to the Pulpit then a block on the port stanchion for the tack line that runs back to the cockpit.

Added a cleat to the stbd side of the mast for the Asym Halyard, and a second for the sock control line.

Sheet Blocks on lanyards secured to the aft cleats by the catbird seats.

Sheet cam cleats mounted on the gunwhales.

Sheet is two piece, Red for Port Sheet, Green for Stbd Sheet, lazy sheet passes in front of the furler so we have to douse in order to gybe.

The Asym tack has a second snap which is used to keep the tack close to the furler, I have a webbing strap spanning about 4 feet from about 2 feet up from the deck reaching up to about 6 feet from the deck.

Using this setup, I can control the height of the tack. The lower the tack the more the sail flys as a lightweight drifter, higher up, and the shute fills better and flies like a spin.

We love it. Will post a few pics later.

Paul

Edited by - on

WindDancer
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2012 : 19:50:43

Paul,

Thank you for the info on your set up, sounds good. I just received the spinnaker in the mail and can't wait to get to the boat to rig her and do some sailing. I would like to see some pictures if you could that would be great.

Thanks,
Bruce

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.