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DavidCrosby
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USA
229 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/31/2014 : 09:51:43

The Cruising Forum is pretty quiet this time of the year. I thought maybe I could occupy some time and post a non Catalina 25/250 story here if you all are interested.

I have dreamed of sailing around the world most of my life. While I have not managed to put that trip together; in May, 2009 I lost my job and ended up with six months of severance pay. I decided that I would not have many opportunities in life where I would have six months of full pay and health insurance and not have to work. So, I acted upon my dream and found a crew position on a boat headed across the Atlantic from the BVI to Scotland. While confirming references for that owner, I managed to land an additional trip from St. Maarten to Newport, RI with a layover in Bermuda. To top things off, my 13 year old daughter got to come along on the transatlantic trip.

I kept a blog during both trips. These are still available online at http://webpages.charter.net/morgan300/index.html. The photos and text are separate because I was posting the blog while at sea and then adding pictures once I got into a port. I have thought about rebuilding the site and inserting photos within the text where appropriate.

If the forum approves, I could post my story bit by bit over the next month. Or, this could be my last post about this topic. Please let me know what is appropriate.

David Crosby "Small World"
'02 C250 WK #614

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 01/31/2014 : 09:57:51

Even though it isn't strictly about Catalinas, we're all sailors and we're all dreamers, so my vote is in favkor of posting it.

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 01/31/2014 : 12:46:48

Please post! As you mentioned things have been slow lately and with the cold weather we all need some good stories to read.

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Peregrine
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Response Posted - 01/31/2014 : 17:31:04

The adventures of all our members are of interest and this adventure is sure to be read by a majority of the forum users.
I certainly look forward to seeing the posts.

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DavidCrosby
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Response Posted - 01/31/2014 : 21:00:36

Here is a summary and a bit of history to get the story going. I can follow up over the coming days with select blog posts.

Like many people I have dreamed of sailing around the world for the better part of my life. For me that dream has been for the past forty two years.

In 2003, I decided to do something with that dream. It wasn’t a big step, but it was a step. I had discovered Offshore Passage Opportunities. This is a service that matches people looking for a crew job with people needing crew. Offshore Passage Opportunities is involved with the NARC (North Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) as well as a migration of a charter fleet of Swans from St. Maarten to Newport, RI and vice versa each year. The trip includes a stop over in Bermuda. An OPO member can buy a crew position on one or both legs of the trip. For a working guy like me, the fact that these passages are scheduled and the schedule is adhered to is a huge advantage.

I went to my boss and made a request for three weeks of vacation, stating that I probably only need two, but since sailing, weather, etc. is involved it would be wise to aim for three weeks. In the corporate world, three weeks of vacation in one shot is very hard to come by. Well, I got the blessing and made plans.

I had a big concern about sea sickness. I had never been on the open ocean before, but knew from experiences in flying light airplanes and sailing on Lake Michigan that I was susceptible. We departed St. Maarten bound for Bermuda. A storm had passed through the night before and the sea state was confused and quite rough. I stayed on deck pretty much all day and into the evening. I was fairing well. During the night, I went below to try to sleep, in a forward cabin of course, and was bounced all over the place. I was starting to feel bad, but as long as I laid there with my eyes closed tightly I was OK. I had a watch coming up and was determined to not miss it. It was tough getting myself out of that berth. The moment I sat up, I started feeling horrible. I popped another Bonine tablet and ran aft to the cockpit. Upon making it topside, I promptly headed for the low side to hurl. Thanks, to my lifeline coming up short I managed to make a nice mess of the boat.

I did hold my watch and all others and I even managed to hold down all future meals; but, I was not feeling very good and I was pretty much useless down below. Thankfully, our captain had announced that he was going to be doing all of the cooking. That was a huge relief; I was not sure how I was going to be able to hold up my end of the bargain in the food department. I still had meal cleanup to be concerned about, but figured I would make up for my inadequacies below at a later period.

Based on all of the reading I have done, they say that most people get past seasickness after the third day. On the third day out, I did and I recall saying to the captain, “I feel great, let’s hang a right and go to the Azores.” A couple days later we arrived in Bermuda. Much to my surprise, upon stepping ashore, I was now land sick. The customs office had this horrible sway going. After clearing in to Bermuda, we went out for breakfast and I recall having to hold on to the table because the room was swaying so badly.

Back to the dream: Well, it was crushed on that trip. For many reasons which I am not going to go into here, I needed to bale out of the second leg of the trip to Newport.
While I really wanted to continue the trip, deep inside I was not looking forward to an ongoing battle with seasickness. I came home feeling like I had been through a washing machine and was not quite sure how I could ever deal with this seasickness problem. I was crushed, my dream was crushed. I sold my Morgan 30 and bought a one-design, racing day sailor.

Somewhere after this point, I had seen an article in a sailing magazine about Brec Morgan’s solo voyage around the world. In his first article he mentions being seasick sailing from Connecticut to Bermuda and then being land sick in Bermuda. I read all of his articles found all of his logs on the internet and read every last one. At no point did he ever mention being seasick again. I made multiple attempts to e-mail him to ask if there was ongoing seasickness that he just no longer wrote about or if it was done and over with after that first trip. I did not receive a response, but it gave me hope. The dream was back and stronger than ever. Here was a 50 year old guy that asked his wife to sail around the world with him. When she said, “Not going to happen!” He said, “OK! I’ll see you in two years.” He got seasick but he still did it. If he can do it, then so can I.

I had come to the new conclusion that what I needed was an Atlantic crossing on someone else’s boat before making an investment of my own. The problem came back to working in the corporate world. How was I ever going to get enough time off to cross the Atlantic without quitting my job? I still had a family to support and this was my dream not theirs. So, I kept on dreaming. During the summer I would race my day sailor. During the winter I would dream. Years went by without managing to put the pieces together.

Late summer 2008, I was working in Los Angles on assignment for my employer. I needed to occupy my time over a weekend and discovered that Latitudes and Attitudes was holding their annual Advanced Cruising Seminar in LA that particular weekend. I was well beyond the deadline for registration, but gave them a call and was squeezed in. What an event, if you are a dreamer this is something that you should not miss. This really rekindled the dream. The message is clear, “Stop dreaming and just do it.”

Well, I had something going for me. I could see my career with my employer of 16 years coming to an end. I had no doubt that eventually the facility I worked at would be closed. I figured there would most likely be an option to move to another division or take a severance package. That package would be the answer to having the time available, with pay, to do an Atlantic crossing. I started laying the ground work. I renewed my membership with Offshore Passage Opportunities and patiently waited for the e-mail to come in stating that there was a boat owner or delivery captain looking for crew on a transatlantic crossing. I guess I was meant to cross an ocean. The facility closure was announced (earlier than expected) and within a week my dream trip notice arrived in my inbox. I contacted Bonnie, the owner of the Beneteau Oceanis 473, S/V Esprit d’ Escales. Bonnie was planning a trip from Tortola, British Virgin Islands to Scotland with a layover in the Azores. We corresponded to determine our compatibility. Additionally, Bonnie requested that I provide her with a reference. I contacted the delivery captain from my 2003 trip to ask him if he would be a reference for me. That phone call resulted in my getting a crew position on board the 60’ Yapluka catamaran S/V Sete Mares sailing from St. Maarten to Newport, RI with a stop in Bermuda. The timing of this trip fit perfectly between my last day of work and the transatlantic trip.

I would like this story to focus on my Atlantic crossing, but I want to mention that I made the St. Maarten to Bermuda to Newport, RI without experiencing any seasickness at all. I was elated and ready to take on the world. More reassuring was that other members of the crew did suffer from seasickness, so my being spared was from more than just being on a big catamaran.

While working on the crew selection for S/V Esprit d’ Escales it worked out that my 13 year old daughter Megan would get to join us on the crossing as well. Not only was I going to get to test my dream, a member of my family would get to experience an ocean passage as well.

On June 1st, 2009, Megan and I flew to Tortola to meet up with Bonnie and her partner Tim onboard S/V Esprit d’ Escales. Bonnie and Tim had already spent many weeks preparing EdE as Bonnie likes to refer to her home/yacht. The morning after our arrival, we were off running around Tortola trying to take care of last minute items in the BVI. The four of us spent most of Tuesday, June 2nd running errands, collecting short term provisions, etc. The highlight of the day was going to "Her Majesty's Prison" to buy unrefrigerated eggs (eggs that have not been refrigerated will keep for weeks without refrigeration). The prison is located high up in the hills on one of the nicest pieces of land on the island of Tortola.

Megan inspecting the eggs. Just one of several dozen.

Wednesday morning, June 3rd we set sail for St. Thomas. We had a pleasant five hour downwind sail from Trellis Bay, British Virgin Islands to Crown Bay, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands. Megan managed to spend some time at the helm with me. She has never sailed a boat with a wheel or driven a car, so this was a bit of a new experience for her. Just as we entered the bay to Charlotte Amalie, two dolphins came along side the boat and swam in our bow wave for a while. These were the first of many wild dolphins that we would see on this trip. Within minutes of our arrival at the dock, our fifth and final crew member, Alex, joined us.

The next few days were a flurry of activity. Provisioning had to be done.

This is what happens when a 13 year old is sent off with a cart and told to select food for 30 days.

Multiple stores were on the agenda, each to fulfill specific needs for the upcoming adventure. Load after load of provisions came to the dock. Each item was stripped of its cardboard, wrappers, plastics and all items were labeled with a marker before being cataloged and stowed. Working as a team, all of the items quickly disappeared into the bilge, cabinets, lockers, under bunks, etc., etc.

The watch crew going over log entry procedures prior to departure.

The morning of June 6th, we cleared customs and moved the boat over to the fuel dock. Departure was imminent.

EdE and crew ready to depart. From L to R: David, Megan, Tim, Bonnie and Alex

We departed Crown Bay and headed west to round the island of St. Thomas and make our way out into the open ocean. Our planned route was to head north towards Bermuda. Once far enough north to miss the Azores high, we would turn east and start making our way to the Azores. The first two days we spent beating into head winds. I had high expectations that I was not going to get seasick. Unfortunately, that was not the case. I wrote in my blog, “We have been at sea for two days, five hours. The first two days were pretty rough for me. I did end up being seasick the first evening out. As past experiences indicate, I was OK up on deck. It was not until I had gone below for a short while. After that I had a hard time recovering from the motion. I had been taking all of my seasickness remedies and it did not work. However, I did discover shortly after getting sick that my Scoplamine patch was not behind my ear. I have no idea when I lost it, but I gather that had an effect. I also think being on the big catamaran had everything to do with my not getting sea sick on the last trip. We have been living at a 20 degree angle of heel ever since rounding the western end of St. Thomas. The seas have mellowed and we are moving along quite nicely now….”

Life on a slant. But on a relatively flat day.


The first two days were uncomfortable and I caught myself thinking, “Dave, why are you doing this to yourself?” I was once again having doubts about my dream of sailing around the world. On the third day, the seas calmed and we had eight glorious days of delightful sailing. As the sea state started becoming rough again I found it to be absolutely spectacular. I actually quite enjoyed seeing the ocean in a rough, confused state. What a relief, my dream was alive once again. I thoroughly enjoy being out on the ocean. On about the 13th day at sea I wrote, “I am at the stage that I am looking forward to the landfall in the Azores, because it is a new point in the voyage. But, honestly at this point it really does not matter to me whether we make landfall in six days or thirty. I feel at home. I am enjoying myself and at this time don’t really need to be on land.”

I felt great for the vast majority of the St. Thomas, USVI to Azores leg of the voyage and had not taken any seasickness medication beyond the first few days. Upon stepping ashore for the first time in 20 days, I thoroughly expected to experience land sickness once again or at a minimum I expected that the world would be swaying. To my complete surprise, I did not experience any motion while on land. My 13 year old daughter, who apparently is not effected in the slightest by seasickness did a very unusual act for a person stepping ashore for the first time after being out at sea for 20 days. While some would literally kiss the ground, she did a somersault.

Arrival in the Azores. We have just stepped ashore after 20 days at sea.

After spending five days in the Azores, we headed out to sea once again. This time we were headed north to Scotland and fully expected this leg of the voyage to be rough.

The ten days to Scotland pretty much lived up to our expectations. We had fairly large seas for most of the trip, with winds in the mid to high twenties and a scattering of 30+ knots. I have been pretty noncommittal in stating the size of the waves. I think it is really hard to accurately judge the wave height. The method we used was knowing that our eye height, when standing, from the boat’s waterline was about nine feet, we figured that if the horizon was still visible when in a trough, then the wave height was less than nine feet and if the horizon was not visible then the wave height was over nine feet. We would try to judge how high the waves were above the horizon when we were in a trough. I think the biggest waves we saw were about 13 feet. (I have no idea if this is the proper way to report wave height.). I can say that it is quite a sight when the boat is on top of a wave and you look out through the big, deep valley to the next wave.

The better part of the Azores to Scotland leg was spent either on a beam reach or tight beat. We were heeled over close to 20 degrees most of the time. Up on deck, I had no problems with the motion. Down below in the cabin was a slightly different story. I was feeling a bit out of sorts due to the motion, but I had no problem with doing boat related chores and taking care of necessities in the cabin. Reading and working on the computer in my cabin were out of the question. I however did take numerous chances with my computer and continued to update my blog regularly. I did this huddling with my laptop behind the dodger on the lee side of the boat hoping that I would not get doused by green water.

I talk a lot about seasickness in this story because most articles skim over how the author has been affected. I want to share my experiences.

One may think that day after endless day of being on the ocean would be boring. I have not found that to be so. Every single day of my being at sea has included some sort of new experience. At this point, I have experienced 44 days of sailing on the open ocean and have yet to be bored. I am sure you are familiar with the line: “A sailor went to sea and all he could see was the deep blue sea, sea, sea.” Well, let me tell you about some of the things I saw while out to sea.

During my St. Maarten to Bermuda passage in 2003, we had a rainbow form directly off of the transom of our Swan 48. The rainbow arched through the sky and touched down on the horizon. I could actually put my hand into the colors of this rainbow. I commented to our first mate, “We are at the end of a rainbow, where is our pot of gold? I know, it is at the other end!” His response was, “No, you are standing on it, this boat just sold for $600,000 and we are taking it to its new owner.”

One evening on that same trip, a rainbow formed at night. This rainbow however, was not colored, it was shades of white. The only name I could think of was a Moon bow. A year or so later I did see a reference to the moon bow phenomena in a sailing magazine. The author described it the same as I had seen and said that it only occurs with a full moon that is low on the horizon.

On this trip to the Azores, I have finally seen the elusive green flash. I saw it at sunrise. From everything I have been told and read, you need to have a smooth horizon with no clouds in the sky and that it would be seen as the top of the sun either retreats below the horizon or just appears above the horizon. The morning that I saw the green flash, I was not expecting to. We had a very smooth horizon, but there was a line of clouds just above the horizon. When I came on watch at 3:00 am, there was a fine red band of color below the clouds on the horizon. I was curious as to exactly where on the horizon the sun would pop up. I turned on my hand held GPS and looked up the sunrise within the “Celestial Body” detail section of the GPS. This told me that the sun would rise at exactly 4:20 am. I checked the time of my watch against that of the GPS and then sat and waited. At a bit past 4:19 am, a really intense pinpoint of red light formed on the horizon. The pinpoint of light got taller forming a triangular shape, brighter and then all of a sudden flattened out into a green flash of light. This lasted just a fraction of a second and then a large portion of the sun jumped above the horizon. I hope to see it again. I wish I had been able to share the experience. I can say that it happens so fast, that if you don’t find the point at which the sun is going to rise from the horizon, you will probably miss it.

Another day, the ocean was perfectly calm. The sun was high in the sky and the sunlight was drilling a beam of light deep into the ocean. The light rays had kind of a twist to it as they penetrated the depths. At a point that it could not penetrate any further the light radiated out into a starburst. I tried to photograph this, but without a polarizing filter all that I could capture was the surface reflection of the ocean. If nothing else, that picture clearly shows that it truly is a deep blue sea, sea, sea!

The photo for the above experience.

We are going to get wet!

The stars in the night sky, while far away from land are absolutely amazing. There are so many to see. For me, the Big Dipper was my ever faithful companion. This is an easily identifiable constellation and is ever present at home amongst the city lights and was always there for me out at sea. Even in the worst of weather, if there was an opening in the clouds, the Big Dipper would manage to show up. The planets were another favorite. It was a highlight of my watches to see Venus and Mars rise. The bigger, brighter planets would leave a beam of light across the ocean just like the moon. In fact, the puffy cumulus clouds would be lit up by the moon and then create their own reflection across the water as well.

There was not a day that went by that I did not see something new to write about. When the weather was bad and the clouds were low and dense. The nights were dark but they had their own appeal. The big advantage to the dark nights is that the bio-luminescent trail that we would leave would be bright and solid in our wake. Additionally, the wave tops would glow green as they broke. The boat was surrounded by green flashes of light throughout the night. To top that, the dolphins would come charging towards the boat leaving their own green trail. I recall on a night watch, four dolphins were coming in fast, each leaving a trail. It reminded me of torpedoes coming at the ship in the WWII movies. Just before hitting the boat the dolphins would break off and you could follow them via their trails as they did figure eights, circles, etc. around the boat.

After arriving in Scotland, Megan, Alex and I stayed with the boat for several more days and we helped Bonnie and Tim move the boat through the Caledonian Canal from Oban, Scotland to Inverness. From there Megan and I bought a tent, two sleeping bags and rented a car and then proceeded to tour Scotland. That is another story. But I do want to say that Scotland is a wonderful destination on the other side of the Atlantic.

What about Megan? This trip appears to have become a defining point in her life. She has had an experience that very few teenagers ever get a chance to have. Our time in the Azores has resulted in new friends as well as having to say good bye. She encountered people speaking numerous different languages. Two little French girls tried to talk with her while we were doing laundry. I believe this experience has lead to a much stronger desire to learn French in High School than she would have had without meeting these kids. Climbing to the summit of a volcano on the island of Pico in the Azores has resulted in a desire to do more adventure hiking. She also claims bragging rights for having climbed Pico by starting our hike at sea level instead of taking a taxi to the trail head as most people do.

Megan and Chris (S/V Pipe Dream) near the summit of Pico.

Megan with the volcano she conquered in the background.

Megan and her dad (David).

More father/daughter time.
How often does a farther get to spend an entire summer with his daughter. This was an amazing experience for both of us.

To top it all off, we celebrated Megan’s 14th birthday out at sea. She had the full party experience, complete with all hands singing “Happy Birthday,” a cake with candles and presents. She was shocked. She had not expected anything and certainly never imagined having a cake. Especially on such a rough day that required the sails to be triple reefed.

I am back at home now and once again in the work a day world. My dream is alive and well. I still have a strong desire to sail around the world. However, currently have my sights set on the Great Loop in my C250, S/V Small World. The name was on the boat when I bought her. I felt it was so appropriate. The Great Loop is quite an adventure in itself and while not the whole world could certainly be my Small World.

Below are a few more pictures from the trip.

While in the Azores it is customary to leave your mark on the sea wall. Here is ours surrounded by the crew of EdE prior to departing for Scotland.

One of the most common questions after the trip is; "What did you eat while at sea?" We definitely did not suffer.

Side note about sea sickness remedies:
When I left for St. Maarten in 2003, I had read up quite a bit on seasickness remedies. I felt that I was very prepared on that trip. I had with me, Bonine, Dramamine, Scopolamine patches, Acupressure wrist bands, Ginger tablets. I read any article that I could find regarding seasickness. The advice was to stay away from heavy foods and alcohol. I did not do so well on the alcohol front. Our crew went to a bar in St. Maarten the night before departure. I tried to avoid drinking, but the rum seemed to keep coming my way. When I protested that to avoid seasickness I should abstain, our captain shoved another Rum ‘n Coke in front of me and said, “Think about it. If you wake up with a hangover tomorrow, you can only feel better. Drink up.” I succumbed to the pressure and had too much to drink.

I had received advice that Bonine was the best solution. Therefore, I elected to go forward with Bonine and took my first Bonine tablet just hours before departure as directed to do so on the package. This did not work for me. Later in the trip, I switched to the Scopolamine patch. The elastic acupressure wrist bands appeared to do nothing for me.

Prior to my two 2009 trips. I had received two pieces of advice. The first being repeated multiple times. Start taking the Bonine tablets three to four days prior to departure. The next piece of advice was as above, but included adding a Scopolamine patch on the day of departure. I did ask my doctor about mixing Bonine and Scopolamine when requesting the prescription for Scopolamine. He responded that he saw no harm in doing so. The third piece of advice was to invest in the Relief Band, which is an electronic zapper that works on the acupressure point in your wrist that is suppose to suppress nausea.

I heeded all advice and invested as directed to do so. My first trip this year was on board a 60’ Yapluka catamaran. I figured sailing on a big catamaran may be part of the advice list as well. Anyhow, the remedies were quite successful. I used the Bonine, Scopolamine and Relief Band. Of the five members of the crew, the captain and I were the only ones that did not end up queasy. I was even able to function below without any problems and regularly did the dishes. Once again, we had a captain that wanted to do all of the cooking. I certainly was not complaining, but was at least able to meet that commitment if need be. To top it off, I felt absolutely no queasiness onshore in Bermuda.

I kept the Bonine going the few days before my arrival at S/V Esprit d’ Escales. On the day of our departure, I placed the Scopolamine patch behind my ear as I had done before. I was seasick during the first evening. It turns out that I had apparently lost the Scopolamine patch shortly after applying it. I managed to get another Scopolamine patch in place and kept it there for the prescribed three days. After the third day, I quit using any seasickness remedies and have been fine ever since. Although, I will say that during some of the rough days on the passage between the Azores and Scotland, I pass on reading and working on the computer down below.

I did not experience any land sickness in the Azores. I had some minimal swaying to deal with, but it was nothing that made me nauseous. We spent five days on land. After putting back out to sea, I had some minor nausea on the first day. We had lunch just prior to departure and it was a heavy pepperoni pizza and I really ate too much. I was feeling a bit bloated just from eating. This probably was not the best choice of food. I did end up taking two Bonine tablets during the first 36 hours. I really had no problems functioning during that period. I just needed to eliminate some queasiness especially while below.

I have certainly read that food choices play a big part in avoiding seasickness. I would think that there is some truth to this, but from experience you do not need to resort to bland foods. We had very well prepared meals that resembled home cooking on all the boats I was on. The food never really appeared to cause a problem. However, I have noted since completing the trip that on the catamaran the refrigerator was stocked full of Ginger Ale and we drank a lot of it. Ginger is supposed to be a good nausea reliever. The Ginger Ale may have been a big player in how I felt while onboard the catamaran.

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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Response Posted - 02/01/2014 : 17:28:27

Thanks David for posting your story. What an adventure for you and your daughter.

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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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1736 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2014 : 11:29:21

Great stuff! You have LIVED our dream!

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bigelowp
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Response Posted - 02/08/2014 : 11:39:52

Great stuff! You have LIVED our dream!

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Ben
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1234 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2014 : 06:54:36

Excellent story and thanks for sharing. I have the same dream you have. Maybe someday. :)

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ruachwrights
Captain

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Response Posted - 02/24/2014 : 13:36:42

Thank you for sharing your post. True... there is nothing boring about the sea for the mind once thrust thereupon. Good luck on your next adventure.

Vern Wright
Hajime

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.