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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Outboard Motor Problems

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/19/2014 : 09:46:44

I have two issues with my motor.

1. Despite having soaked the lower unit oil vent plug in 3 in 1 oil and PB Blaster for days I cannot get the plug loose. I'm thinking of using a propane torch to gently heat the aluminum around the drain plug just enough to get it to expand slightly. I'm hoping the aluminum expanding faster than the steel plug might break free the corrosion. Any thoughts or suggestions for freeing it up?

2. The two bolts that clamp my Suzuki outboard to the motor mount have not been loosened since before I bought my boat 7 years ago. The are frozen solid. I've already tried the methods above except heating the aluminum bracket. Anyone have a any thoughts or suggestions for freeing them up?

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - on

kc5dlo
1st Mate

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USA
71 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2014 : 14:47:51

I think I would concentrate on the motor clamp first if the boat is in the water. Any heat on the drain and vent screws might cause damage to the o-rings or gasket allowing oil out or water in if for some reason you still could not get them out.

I would take a cold chisel and take a whack on it in the slot of the groove on the vent and drain screws and try more PB Blaster. I think heat would help also.

Again if you could Give some good solid taps on the clamp screws and let the PB Blaster work it's magic that might help.

Edited by - on

Kennyge
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2014 : 16:28:47

I changed my engine oil and bottom end oil today on my Honda 8HP and at first I could not get the drain plugs as well as the screws that hold on the engine cover off to get to the oil filter. Very frustrating but after giving all the screws some hard taps with a large hammer they all came loose and I finally got the engine ready for the season.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2014 : 16:52:30

Buy a simple impact driver. You put a screwdriver blade or socket on the business end, twist to set the rotation direction and tap with a hammer. Part of the energy from the hammer keeps the blade in the slot and the rest is converted to quarter rotation.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2014 : 19:33:09

Thanks for all the advice!

I'd already tried whacking it with a hammer both with and without a screwdriver. I'd forgotten about the impact driver. I used to have one and they work really well.

While I was waiting for replies I had to go to Lowe's anyway so I picked up a propane torch. I heated up the area around the plug with the heat set on low for maybe a minute at the most keeping the flame moving constantly. Put the screwdriver on it and it came loose with almost no pressure applied!

Keeping the heat low and moving allowed the metal to heat evenly and did not even discolor the paint.

I did something similar on a Honda Prelude once after trying a cheater pipe on a spark plug that would not budge. The car had an aluminum cylinder head. The fact aluminum expands much faster than steel will help break the corrosion holding the plug. I started the car for 30 - 45 seconds and the plug came out with very little effort.

Edited by - GaryB on 04/19/2014 19:34:04

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5239 Posts

Response Posted - 04/20/2014 : 07:16:01

So here's my theory - but it's just a theory. Any time I remove bolts, screws, any threaded item that's likely to seize up especially where there may be dissimilar metals (steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass) I always grease the threads before I reassemble. I usually have some bearing or cup grease handy in the garage or on the boat and it seems to help <i>next time</i> I have to work on it. Lets face it any time you rap, tap or heat a screw, you weaken or strip it a little. Always good to have a little help next time.
I could use "never seize" everywhere but then I'd be worried about all the bolts backing themselves out!
Does anybody use grease or oil on threads?, or is it just me?

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 04/20/2014 : 09:04:02

I generally use Neversieze on potential problem area. I bought a lifetime supply, 8 oz can, years ago.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9017 Posts

Response Posted - 04/20/2014 : 11:13:49

I've also used Loctite Threadlocker for stainless into aluminum. It supposedly protects from corrosion and galling as well as preventing backing-out from vibration. Removal has been easy.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 04/20/2014 : 18:04:10

I used their 2 step stainless product on the mast. I have never been disappointed with LocTite products as long as I chose the right one.

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.