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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Mast raising system

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kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/26/2014 : 15:07:01

I have searched through the archives and unfortunately many pages that depict or explain how to make an A frame, standing A frame or a gin pole are not online anymore.

Anyone have current links to these ideas?

thanks!

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2014 : 16:10:49

Use the search function and type in the words "a-frame" you will get many returns. Then do it again and click "archived posts" you will get many more.

However, you can construct an a-frame out of 3/4" or 1" EMT conduit.

You will need a hack saw or reciprocating saw, a vice, hammer and drill.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2014 : 16:21:04

I have searched as you described from seeing earlier posts that suggested it. However, many of the links that go to pages with photos or details are not on the web anymore, hence the reason I asked.

Thanks.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2014 : 16:28:40

Hey Davy J,

saw some posts that name a "A frame" design you created as elegant. Can you share the url of the post of where you go into detail about constructing one?

thanks!

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2014 : 04:59:14

Here is a video I did a few years ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsLxujYRsMQ

My a-frame was made of 3/4" EMT. All of the ends were flattened in a vise then drilled for the appropriate sized bolts.

The end that connects to the forward lower chain plate is the most work. Here are a few photos of it:

Some of the other a-frames I have seen, the builders didn't bother to flatten the conduit, so it can be done that way as well.

I was going to construct a new one and make a video of that, but have since sold my C25.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2014 : 05:29:13

This is one of the best conduit systems Ive seen. I saw one used that was not as secure and the skipper had to really work to keep mast inline. Several owners have stated they like to raise mast in water as it is not as far to fall. I like in the water as hoist launch with mast down is a lot cheaper. I use the gin pole (spinaker pole) method with mast crutch resting on the traveler so everything is aboard. I still can do lift by myself since 79.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2014 : 14:58:31

Thanks for the info Davy J!

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2014 : 16:07:39

Davy's set up is the Cadillac of A frames. If you don't wan't to use conduit, 2x4's will work also. I used 2x4's so as not to marr up my deck with the conduit. I copied Davy's pipe nipple hinge for its simplicity.

Edited by - on

andbarger
Deckhand

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24 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2014 : 10:10:51

I need to build an A-frame but I have a few questions.
1. Will the A-frame keep the mast inline? It seems like it would but that is something we have always had trouble was the mast wanting to twist.
2. Do you attach the forward lower shrouds to anything?
3. About how long are the legs of the frame?

Thanks everyone!

Edited by - on

dasreboot
Admiral

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803 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2014 : 11:15:05

i did the huntington system listed here
http://catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/nymastup.asp

I do it single handed and let the mast go forwards. Instead of jumper stays I used stainless plates. shortened my upper stays myself with norseman fittings.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2014 : 11:41:06

quote:
I need to build an A-frame but I have a few questions.
1. Will the A-frame keep the mast inline? It seems like it would but that is something we have always had trouble was the mast wanting to twist.
2. Do you attach the forward lower shrouds to anything?
3. About how long are the legs of the frame?

1. Yes for the most part it will stay inline unless the boat isn't level or there is sideways pressure from the wind. Having a helper stand on the side of the mast can easily guide the mast should it go off course.
2.You will remove the forward shrouds to attach the A frame to the chain plate. The mast will not fall down. No need to attach them anywhere just move them out of the way.
3. The distance from the lower forward chain plate to just short of the stem fitting.

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2014 : 11:59:53

quote:
2. Do you attach the forward lower shrouds to anything

I attach my forward lower shrouds to the tangs that are connected at the hinge bolt. See this photo:

These tangs keep the mast inline and keeps it from swaying side to side

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 07:28:17

I had the pleasure of using Scott's A-frame rig this year and it worked well. I used it with the boat afloat and tied to the dock. It was a very breezy day and I had no trouble dropping the mast aft or raising it back up solo. I loosened the uppers shrouds and lower aft shrouds and removed the lower forward shrouds. The A-frame being bolted in to the chainplates prevented the mast swaying to port or starboard while dropping or raising it.
And I agree, wooden 2x4s are generally more forgiving to the deck and cabintop versus metal EMT or thickwall tubing.

Edited by - on

DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 07:54:06

quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

I had the pleasure of using Scott's A-frame rig this year and it worked well. I used it with the boat afloat and tied to the dock. It was a very breezy day and I had no trouble dropping the mast aft or raising it back up solo. I loosened the uppers shrouds and lower aft shrouds and removed the lower forward shrouds. The A-frame being bolted in to the chainplates prevented the mast swaying to port or starboard while dropping or raising it.
And I agree, wooden 2x4s are generally more forgiving to the deck and cabintop versus metal EMT or thickwall tubing.

Question, do you have to take out the bolt to the mast step when doing this? Or can it actually pivot?

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 10:47:02

quote:
Question, do you have to take out the bolt to the mast step when doing this? Or can it actually pivot?

Do not remove the bolt....!

You may need to loosen it slightly. The slots in the tabernacle will allow the bolt to rise up or down slightly as the mast is lowered or raised. The upper shrouds need to be loosened as well for this to happen. I loosened mine by 5 turns so there is just enough slack.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 10:47:41

Making an A-frame a la DavyJ was very easy. I bought two pieces of 1" EMT conduit 10 ft long. Next, cut each down to 9' 4" and cut one of the 8" pieces left over in half for the deck nipples. I used a hammer and flattened the ends on the long pieces up 4" using a solid concrete block as a base and used the hitch receiver on my van to bend the pieces to the A-frame shape I needed. I did not flatten the 4" nipple pieces. I then drilled holes where needed to assemble and took to the boat to mark where the deck holes would be needed for the nipples. I bought clevis pins at HD for the 4" nipple connection points.

Edited by - on

andbarger
Deckhand

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24 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 11:30:55

Davy J,
Do when you attach the forward lower shrouds to the tangs on the A-frame do you snug them up or keep them looser side?

Thanks

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 11:40:44

quote:
Davy J,
Do when you attach the forward lower shrouds to the tangs on the A-frame do you snug them up or keep them looser side?

I connect them to the tangs in the loose state that I removed them. There is a point, when the mast is about half way down, that they tighten up and keep the mast in column.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2014 : 16:47:34

Hey Davy, have any pics of the top of your a frame?

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2014 : 07:06:29

I don't have a good photo, but if you watch the video, you can pause on the section where I showed the forward end. It's an eye bolt with some washers, three nuts, (two act as a spacer) and a cap nut.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2014 : 08:29:58

As mentioned above, do not remove the bolt going through the mast and deck plate. Doing so would allow the bottom of the mast to kick-out as the mast came down dropping the whole rig on anyone near he boat.

If you're going to bring the mast down into travel or storage position be very careful when you do remove the bolt through the mast plate. Most of the weight of the mast will be beyond the mast cradle and the mast base will want to flip up out of the mast plate when you pull the bolt. The two times I've dropped my mast solo I straddle the mast base sitting on the mast as I pull the bolt out then ease it forward until it will stay down on it's own. At that point it's fairly easy to lift the base up and move it forward onto the bow pulpit.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2014 : 09:20:31

Looks like everybody's attachment point to the chainplate is round. On my cat is is a rectangle. Does anyone have an idea of how to connect the frame to it? By the looks of what I've been seeing on this thread, I was almost believing you attach the a frame to the forward lower shroud attachment point.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2014 : 09:45:54

quote:
Originally posted by kiko

Looks like everybody's attachment point to the chainplate is round. On my cat is is a rectangle. Does anyone have an idea of how to connect the frame to it? By the looks of what I've been seeing on this thread, I was almost believing you attach the a frame to the forward lower shroud attachment point.

That is where it is attached, the forward lower chain-plate/shroud attachment point. The upper shrouds have to stay attached to hold the mast up.

Edited by - on

kiko
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2014 : 09:58:06

Thanks Gary! That clears up a lot of confusion I was having :)

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2014 : 16:03:54

The pipe nipple is round, You make one side of it oval shaped to fit over the rectangle forward lower chain plate. Use a vise or beat it with a hammer to make them oval. If you look at the photo's more closely you will see that the attachment side of the pipe nipples are bent into an oval shape.

Edited by - islander on 08/31/2014 16:07:38

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 09/01/2014 : 08:57:34

also note that the chainplate orientation is not perpendicular to the centerline of the boat, so your bolts should be bent a little bit (15-20 degrees) to align with the chainplate holes. Note the slight offset from perpendicular between the 2x4 and the bolt in the pipe nipple in Scott's photo. That is added to the diagonal of the A-frame to achieve the offset.

Edited by - on

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