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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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My Tiller Regulator

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/21/2015 : 11:13:38

I've been working on this for years and I think I've finally gotten it perfected, as much as is possible. I use to use a bungy cord to manage the tiller for short sprints into the cabin for my GPS, phone, change the radio station or water bottle.

The tiller had a receptacle for the tiller extension and I put a SS bolt through it with a washer on it. Then I put on two large washers separated by a few smaller spacers. Then a wingnut on the bottom.

I used a waxy type of line first but it was too sticky, then I got smooth nylon line. I wrapped the line around the stern cleats. One end is just a loop, the other end is a loop made with a sliding hitch.

Nice thing about a loop is I can pull the line off the cleat instantly if I need to swing the tiller in an emergency.

The sliding hitch allows me to tighten or loosen the tension. I also included a loop to secure the hitch to with an overhand knot. The photos below show different perspectives.

The line wrapped around the bolt/washer assembly will slip a bit and provides a bit of leeway as waves hit or breezes pipe up.

Net-net, the tiller regulator does two things: (1) it keeps the tiller from slopping/flopping around on its own and it allows me to nudge it slightly to adjust the steering.

Straight on View - showing the tiller, the bolt and washer and lines to the cleats.

Diagonal View - showing the bolt & washer with the line leading to the tensioner cleat.

Tensioner end of the line

Top View of the bolt & washer showing the wingnut below.

Inside view of the wrap

I've found that materials make the difference - the slip of the line is important and a bit of stretch is better...

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2015 : 11:42:09

Looks like you've duplicated a Davis Tiller Tamer for probably 1/3 or less of the price.

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor

Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2015 : 14:55:26

Ah yes!, but with a few important differences:
1. Stainless steel instead of UV-prone plastic. Several people have complained that they have to replace their TT once every few years and they break down - when? When you're on a long trip and you need it most...
2. The tiller taming gizmo has a short arm running aft of the central wheel - that has a smaller offset pulley that provides a bit more leeway to offset turning forces (waves, currents, puffs). In that regard I believe the TT is slightly superior. I offset that using stretchier line.
If you want one but don't feel like making one yourself I'll send you a kit - ping me on bruce 2 sail at eh-oh-'ell dot comm.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3994 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2015 : 15:44:17

Bruce, Looks really nice and I love one off fabrication. I have 2 questions. I think you are going to get a lot of line chafe where the two lines cross over/under each other going on and off the wheel. Second is It doesn't appear to have some sort of tension/drag adjustment. May I suggest a bolt coming from under the tiller, Through the pulley, Then a fender washer on top of the pulley, Then a knob that you can tighten and loosen as needed.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3994 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2015 : 17:42:10

Also if that wheel is a sheave with a bearing in the center then you would bend the fender washer slightly so the outer edges of the washer will drag on the sheave as you tighten the knob otherwise the flat washer would just bottom out against the bearing in the center and the wheel would still turn freely without any drag.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 06/21/2015 17:43:42

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2015 : 20:16:51

Scott,
You're right, there is some chafe where the lines overlap but that is what stiffens the tiller and prevents the tiller slipping freely. New line is cheap.
The tension and drag is controlled by essentially a "trucker's hitch" on the starboard cleat. The two washers are separated by a nut and a split washer. Tension is adjusted by the wing nut squeezing the split washer.
That's why it has taken awhile to get it just right.
Sure it's a one off, but it's simple, inexpensive and replacing the line is a no-brainier. I'll take a photo of the pieces next time I'm at the boat. Then I'll list the dimensions if anybody wants to replicate it.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3994 Posts

Response Posted - 06/30/2015 : 12:49:48

I don't know if you can apply what I did with my Davis Tiller Tamer but It came from my PO. He had it mounted under the tiller and way forward on the tiller. Both of these I didn't like. The tamer was mounted just about where your hand would go. Having it underneath made adjustments more difficult and having it forward on the tiller made the lines create a large Vee blocking a good portion of seating area. I mounted it on top of the tiller. I then mounted a plastic small boat spinnaker pole ring as a fairlead behind the tamer. now I could move the tamer back. This solved both problems.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

rdthoms
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2015 : 14:19:22

I've been researching this. I came across this design that looks really simple:
http://navigatorjoel.blogspot.com/2014/03/how-to-build-adjustable-tiller-lock-for.html
I think you could even leave the lower block off the design if you are willing to mill a groove in the bottom of the tiller.

And I've actually used this design before because all it takes is ~6' of line to make it work (run it from dock cleat to dock cleat with three wraps around the tiller):
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/Photopoint/0005/cajun-tiller-tamer.htm
However it was a little cumbersome to fine tune and quick on/off.

Richard
Huntsville, AL
1984 Catalina 25 SR/FK #4309

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Response Posted - 07/03/2015 : 21:27:14

Joe's gizmo is very cool, well thought-out and inexpensive.

The one issue I'm concerned about is that it's almost too perfect... you can set it and forget it and the boat will remain on the same heading for minutes at a time. If I were to fall overboard without a harness, the boat would sail away from me quickly at 4-5kts and would be impossible for me to recover. I'm now thinking of some way to attach a line to me so if that were to happen, my going overboard would pull the tiller toward one side and force the boat to circle back allowing me to catch it on its return.
... or maybe I'll have to install a harness and jack line after all. Hmmm

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 07/03/2015 21:33:56

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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USA
191 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2015 : 08:42:27

Neat stuff guys. My method on my old 26'Clipper Marine cost $7. Install a nylon european jam cleat on under side of tiller. Run line to port and stb'd cleats across the new tiller jam cleat. Play with the line tension until all you need do is put middle of line in jam cleat when needed. Line stretch will allow you to remove or attach at will. Chief

COMPASS ROSE C250WK
Tall Mast, Wing keel
PORT CHIEF, Bodega Bay Ca.
IE,EE,FCC lic #1890

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1519 Posts

Response Posted - 07/06/2015 : 13:12:24

I had a TT and when it broke I installed a short line to each stern cleat attached to 4 strands of 1/4" yellow rubber tubing across the tiller with one wrap. It steers straight for the usual needs and can be used to turn by simply pushing one way or the other. It's much more elastic than bungee cords.

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay

Edited by - JohnP on 07/06/2015 13:12:56

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2016 : 14:20:13

Another DIY Tiller Controller

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9017 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2016 : 15:06:48

quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

The one issue I'm concerned about is that it's almost too perfect... you can set it and forget it and the boat will remain on the same heading for minutes at a time. If I were to fall overboard without a harness, the boat would sail away from me quickly at 4-5kts and would be impossible for me to recover. I'm now thinking of some way to attach a line to me so if that were to happen, my going overboard would pull the tiller toward one side and force the boat to circle back allowing me to catch it on its return.

Trying to imagine that...

Wouldn't you rather have it disconnect the tiller so (with some weather helm) the boat will turn up "into irons" and (sort of) wait for you to catch it, rather than turning through wind or jibing, backwinding the jib, tacking/jibing again, and staying in motion like a wild horse while you try to anticipate a spot where you might be able to intersect it and hope you can hang on as it keeps sailing?

Better yet, clip in.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 06/16/2016 15:09:11

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5241 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2016 : 08:15:23

Yes, I like to be able to set it and forget it while in the cockpit. If I were to fall out, not so much. Could rig a line between me and the tiller...
I am thinking seriously about running jacklines along the gunwales and strapping in.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

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