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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Replacing Handrails

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/08/2005 : 13:47:57

Have an 83 C-25 swing-keel that needs new 7-loop handrails. Will order same from Catalina Direct. How about installation tricks? I'm sure boards will come straight and undrilled. They require a curved fit and new holes to fit. How do you get a curve? Also, looks like silicone was used previously. Should I use Boat Life, 4200 or silicone? Any tips would be appreciated.
Ed Spengeman

ed spengeman
Indianapolis (geist)
Port Captain
Palakida
83 tr/sk

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2005 : 14:07:52

Hi Ed,

When you take the old handrails off you'll see that about every other fastner is a through bolt 'n nut (screws 'n washers for the others). Clean the cabin top thoroughly. Bed with BoatLife or 4200. Start fastening at one end (doesn't matter which). That end will be fastened with a bolt 'n nut in about the center of the first rail support. You will need to drill the hole for the bolt as well as a countersink hole for the bolt to slide down into. After the first faster is in place, drill up from the cabin with a tapered wood bit for the first screw 'n washer (second rail support). The third support will be fastened with another bolt 'n washer. You might have to "spring" the handrail a bit to line up the hole. Again, drill up from the cabin to get the hole in the right place - then drill the countersink from the top of the rail. This process alternates back 'n forth till you reach the last hole - which will be another bolt 'n nut.

This is a two-person job under normal conditions.

After the rails are in place, cover the countersink holes with "bungs". Apply finish to the rails and you're all set.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3312 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2005 : 17:27:52

Bill - on "This Side Up" the handrails are only secured with long screws from below. When did Catalina start throughbolting?
Derek

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2005 : 18:01:20

On my 1979 C-25, the 7-loop cabin top handrails are attached by long #10 SS self-tapping screws from inside the cabin. I've had my rails off and on several times, including relocating them. My suggestion would be that you mark where the edges of the rails need to end up at each screw before you start installing. If you're using masking tape, that can be your mark. I install mine with silicone sealant. I've found that anything with greater adhesion risks damaging the teak during removal. (And rest assured, these will need to come off from time to time.) I also changed to stainless steel deck screws with square socket heads -- they're less likely to develop burrs from repeated use. I used the same style trim washers as before.

Here's how I would do it:
<ul><li>I coated the bottom "footprints" of rails with a couple coats of epoxy to prevent water intrusion into the grain, and to reduce the likelyhood of damage to the teak when prying it back off the boat later. (This treatment only needs to be done once, and lasts the life of the teak.)</li>
<li>Line your rail up with the existing holes to determine the best fore-aft position to come closest to hitting the middle of all the mounting points through the existing holes. Mark the deck at the end where you plan to start.</li>
<li>As previously described, starting with no goo involved, position one end of the rail.</li>
<li>Drill & install that screw.</li>
<li>Position rail so next contact point lines up (with screw hole exactly in the middle of the footprint).</li>
<li>Drill & install that screw.</li>
<li>Flex the rail so next contact point lines up.</li>
<li>Drill & install that screw.</li>
<li>...And so on to the other end.</li>
<li>Take it all back apart, and reassemble it with your choice of sealant and masking tape.</li>
<li>After the sealant cures, carefully trace around each attachment point with a sharp knife tip, then peel squeezed out goo and tape.</li>
</ul>Although there's nothing wrong with the screw heads on top under plugs method, I consider it more work than what I've described above.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 10:21:46

Hi Derek

Seems like mid-80's was when Catalina made the change in fastenings.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 11:23:37

My 82 had both types, a through bolt then a couple internal screws then another through bolt, etc.

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Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 12:12:18

Another question is -- has anyone replaced the teak rails with stainless? If so, did you cobble a rail together using parts from a marine supplier, or is there a source that supplies a more instant fit?

Brooke

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 13:26:37

Defender sells single SS rails that would allow a person to go every other one. It would probably look nice. (I used one on my old main hatch)

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 19:36:09

I have seen rails made from polycarbonate--maybe starboard? But I don't know if they have the standard dimensions--ron srsk Orion SW FL

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RoofRoof
Navigator

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USA
186 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 21:50:30

I've had my hand rails off a few times. Only screws holding mine on my 79 swinger.

Either way, I don't use cauld of any kind, I use weather strip. Just cut it to match the curvature. Keeps all water tight, but is removable when it is time to varnish. I've gotten 4 years from my last varnishing. Well, not varnish.....but 4 coats of Cetol Light, then 4 coats of Cetol Gloss. Just did it again and expect to get 4 more years in the hot Florida sun.

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Charlie
Deckhand

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USA
4 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2005 : 22:33:00

I also replaced my handrails with new ones from CD. I used 1/4 x 3" hangar bolts from rockler.com where threaded studs had been on the old ones. The hangar bolts screwed in easily from the cabin side using a hangar bolt driver (available fron rockler). Hangar bolts have wood screw threads on one half and bolt threads on the other. Hardware cost a few dollars. Rails bend easily using the put one in, line up the next, and so on. Takes two people and half hour or so.

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