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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
To all who took an interest and offered support, I report that we believe the cause of the slow but steady leak into the bilge has been discovered - we believe this, of course, until the boat goes back into the water and doesn't leak anymore...
Lots of time went into sponging the bilge dry, inspecting everywhere, making chalk lines, etc...ultimately we had her hauled, put water into the bilge, sand blasted the inside of the trunk to improve visual detection and finally located the breach. Apparently, the bracket, which connects the keel cable to the keel, chipped the fiberglass in the trunk (see photo, area within red circle).
The repair plan is to dry things out, glass over the chip and bottom paint. We're not sure how the chipping occurred, maybe too aggressive winching up of the keel, maybe when the yard set her up on the blocks too much weight rested on it...we can't say for sure - and of course the yard is not suggesting it could be their fault...
ANYWAY, we are very glad repairs are underway and VERY pleased there are no significant structural issues. Again, many thanks to all who responded with suggestions and support!!!
My suspicion is that the yard set her down on the keel. Somebody can correct me, but I believe that, unlike a fixed keel boat, the swinger should be set down on stands, blocks set below the aft end of the keel, and then the keel lowered slightly onto the blocks to take some of the weight. This corresponds to the way it is loaded and carried on a trailer. Doing what I suspect puts most of the weight of the hull on the pivot point unless, as you suspect, the shackle contacts the top of the trunk first, in which case most of the weight is on that tiny contact point alone. I don't know how you can prove the yard's culpability (you have no proof of the dry bilge last fall), but I think the evidence is there. At the very least, you can discuss how it should be done next time, and maybe get a free haulout for this repair.
You have pointed to an area I myself will inspect before my boat is launched. I have a swing keel as well. You can't be the only person to have suffered such a problem. I'll bet your mind is at ease knowing about the the cause of the leak in your boat.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />My suspicion is that the yard set her down on the keel. Somebody can correct me, but I believe that, unlike a fixed keel boat, the swinger should be set down on stands, blocks set below the aft end of the keel, and then the keel lowered slightly onto the blocks to take some of the weight. This corresponds to the way it is loaded and carried on a trailer. Doing what I suspect puts most of the weight of the hull on the pivot point unless, as you suspect, the shackle contacts the top of the trunk first, in which case most of the weight is on that tiny contact point alone.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Dave is absolutely correct, the hull should hold the weight and the keel let down onto a support. I would also like to see the connection point on the keel. Is it the correct hardware and has it been moved. I have seen incorrect hardware and heard of redrilled keels where the "eye" on the keel is moved.
The keel isn't supposed to take any weight. Even when in the cradle the bunks should support the boat and the keel should rest gently on the centerblock.
There used to be a pick here of how the swing keel was put on stands, but I can't find it. Maybe the Master of the Favorites folder - Don Lucier can track it down...
Was the bracket (eye) on your keel a retrofit or the original? Mine looks to be a retrofit, and it seems to be too low of a profile to be the original because when I relaced my keel cable, I had to modify the swage fitting by grinding the corners round so they could pivot.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.