Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Since SWMBO is the photographer I'll give her your instructions and we'll see how it turns out. Myy greatest fear is with the daylight colour balance bit. I know she has no lens filter, but I don't know if her digital camera adjusts tone or anything.
With the light meter I will do 1 foot as you initially suggested
I didn't bring in the chip in to download the pics today - sorry guys. I'll get them up tomorrow. According to our photog friend, both LED's from Dealextreme.com (DX) have the same brighteness as each other (the number of LEDs didn't make a difference as one has 12 diodes and the other has 20).
The DX LED's had the same brightness as the incandescants from Catalina when measured through the plastic Catalina housing.
The Dollar store LED had 1/4 the brightness of the Catalina incandescants.
The Catalina Incandescant has a warm colour (very yellow) which is easier on your eyes. The DX LED's have a very cool white which is further toward the blue end of the spectrum, and although it appears brighter, it is harder on your eyes, and they will tire more quickly.
The Dollar store LED is extremely blue, but not worth mentioning since its so dim.
I plan on ordering more of the 12 diode LED's from DX (pending Ray's review of the WM LEDs)
I had received the warm light 3200K LED bulb yesterday, and tested the light. In a previous post I mentioned how the LED light i had purchased was bright and blue: it was a light in the 6K range.
The warm light is a yellowish color, evenly dispersed. The color is very close to the original bulb. I am very happy with the LED that I plan to order a few more for the cabin. I shall use the superbright LED bulb for the locker.
I remembered the photos of the lights today. Sorry Deric, but I don't have all the technical info that you do.
This is the Catalina OEM light. It has a yellow colour to it:
The light in the V-berth is the 12 diode LED. Its hard to see its colour because of the hanging pockets up there, but you can see it on the bottom of the pic.
In the quarterberth, the 20 diode LED is set up, it gives off the same light as the 12 diode, but to me it looks a little more blue.
You will have to excuse the blur in these photos, they were taken without a flash, at night with only the light in the picture turned on. It may have been better to get a tripod to take them with.
Deric, do you have any photos of your installations? Could you compare your light to a stock light in the same fixture?
Iris, I'll do my best to get some photos posted -- maybe tomorrow night after work. The warm light from LEDLight looks like your top photo showing the yellowish color. The superbright LED from LEDlight looks more like your bottom photo, which has a blueish color.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />For running lights (exterior) I have heard many good things about the Bebi lights. I'll hunt for a link later. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes, please do. I'm looking for a replacement LED bulb for both the stock stern light (about 1" long festoon) and one for the bicolor bow light (about 1 1/4" long festoon). It seems finding these festoon configuration bulbs is difficult.
The Bebi's are a full fixture/light. They are supposed to be pretty good, but I am still wary of using LED's for Nav lights. Maybe I shouldn't be, but I am waiting to see the results others have with them.
I have found a number of Festoon bulb styled LEDs but none are "marine grade." I don't think I would trust them out in the weather. The Bebi's don't look like a festoon, but serve the same purpose. I am not sure if the leads are set up to be soldered to the fixture, or if there is an adaptor.
I took pictures of the three different LED lights.
The first light picture is the superbright LED. Notice the brightness and blueish hue.
The second light picture is the warm light at a lower lighting temperature. It has a yellow hue.
The bottom light picture is a 25 superbright LED (Panel) with the color choice yellow -- although it looks more orange. Pictures are of the cabin light above the sink/stove, I replaced the bulb for each picture.
Above are the West Marine Economy LED lights. The exposure is ISO 1600 1/8 sec. at f 2.8 with a daylight color balance. It all looks yellowish but that is just using the daylight balance to have a comparison image. If you took an image like this at the same exposure you could compare and get an idea of brightness, color balance, and coverage.
The image above is kinda what it looks like. This was taken with a auto color balance on the camera. THis is a pretty good indication of the color balance, but it is not as bright inside as this image would indicate. When your eyes get acclimated it is somewhat accurate.
Also, the red only lights are very cool. Overall I'm thrilled with the setup, you can see well inside and it is very pleasant. I've got one battery, with a flex solar panel hanging inside on one of the windows that keeps the battery topped off, and we kept the lights on for probably 4 hours last night with no changes in the light output.
Well, I attempted to install 5 new LED cabin lights yesterday, but unfortunately ran into an issue. Have many of you found the original cabin light wiring to be very badly corroded and needed to run new wiring? I'm sure many have since it's cheap non-marine grade wire from the factory. I'm guessing there isn't much I can do other than run new marine grade tinned duplex wire and try my best to hide it since I can't run it between the deck and cabin liners. I'll snake it into the nearest part of the bilge. Fortunately the two main cabin light wiring is okay so I don't have to have new wires visible there. The head, v-berth, and rear quarter lights are corroded. They show the correct voltage where I'm soldering the new lights, but I'm assuming it can't handle the little bit of amp draw because the lights either do not work or are very dim. At least in the head and v-berth I can hide new wiring more easily. Any tips on running new wires? Ray, I'm guessing you may have ran new wire with all those cabin lights pictured. What route did you take?
Justin, before you go doing all that work, you might find other options.
My socket under the Stbd windows was badly corroded, but I was able to solder onto the existing wire, and get a light installed. Are you replacing bulbs, or fixtures?
If you are replacing bulbs, be sure that the polarity is not reversed. A couple other people on here mentioned reversed polarity in the mast wiring, and I have found similar on some stuff inside the boat. The will really mess with you LED's.
If the socket is corroded, try sanding it a little, and you may get a good contact again.
If the sandpaper doesn't work, you can buy a socket, and just replace it, but once you are up to replacing a socket and bulb, you may as well buy the CD setup which includes everything in the first place.
If you buy the Deal Extreme lights, you can just solder the connections before the socket and you will be fine. So far the only wire I have had to re-run is the stuff that the PO installed to the cigarette lighter, charger, and electric start on the OB. It was all run under the aft Q-berth, so that would be of no help to you.
If I were running new interior wiring, I would be tempted to do the seatback storage mod, move the power panel to the floor next to the battery box, and run the wiring up the back of the seats.
Short version: look at (replace) those exposed grounding connections Catalina used.
I added new wire, for each new fixture but I did not change out any old wire. I added 2 wires each (hot and ground) at the old fixtures, so I had three wires bundled together, crimped to blade connectors. I was careful to cut back to clean wire at the connections and to crimp well with a ratchet crimper. On the port side one line runs aft to a fixture, and one runs forward and then crimps with another line continuing forward above the port bulkhead to a fixture I added over the head, and on to the overhead fixture in the main cabin. On the strbd side the run goes forward to one light. The light over the sink was already there so it is original wire.
I drilled through the bump that comes down behind the original fixtures in the main cabin, and hung the wire behind this bump next to the original wire runs, hanging with cable ties.
I was expecting to have to replace the original runs and I may still have to. It would be relative easy to cut the crimps on the original fixture locations on each side and run new wire back to the panel. I’m sure the old wire continues to build up resistance as it ages.
I’ve got one light on the strbrd side that is not quite as bright as the others. I can see it in the pictures but on observation it looks no different. I suspect the ground coming out of that light is not connecting well to the ground run. The original connection Catalina had is still there, it is an exposed terminal and has some corrosion. They have a 3 way exposed terminal behind the fixture that may be causing the problem.
You said you had lights not working, or were very dim, so I would look at your polarity, or your original ground connections may be causing this. I’d look at those exposed grounding connections first. Either way sounds like you need to inspect to whole circuit. A bad ground connection would explain why you have power but no/little light.
The Catalina was always in fresh water so the wiring may have aged well. I've got another boat in salt water and I'm always cleaning or rebuilding circuits on that boat.
I bought five of the CD (probably same as WM) round LED cabin lights. All my originals were so badly rusted and corroded, so I just uninstalled them. One of my main cabin lights has a reversed circuit because it didn't work at first, but then I reversed it. The remaining I tested as well with no luck. With one of the leads, I kept cutting and stripping the wire all the way until about an inch was remaining in the cabin. Even after cutting off 6" or so, the copper wire was corroded. I'll check into the grounding and make sure I bring out some sandpaper next time to clean the connections. Hopefully I can get enough current that I won't have to run new wires.
You can't clean the ground terminals I was referring to. Catalina used a 3 way connection that is, like, crimped and riveted together. I found one on my boat behind the strbrd cabin light, connecting two lights to the ground wire.
Hey Ray, I know this is incredibly late, but while working on th eboat this weekend, I came across the paper I had scrawled notes on while my photog friend measured the light.
OEM Incandescant bulb with meter 12" from Bulb: 100 ASA = 1/8 second with F Stop 2.0.8 Deal Extreme 12 LEDs with meter 12" from bulb: 100 ASA = 1/8 second with F Stop 2.0.7 Deal Extreme 20 LEDs with meter 12" from bulb: 100 ASA = 1/8 second with F Stop 2.0.8 Dollar Store LED bulb with Meter 12" from bulb: 100 ASA = 1.0 seconds with F Stop 1.0
<< Ray, I'm guessing you may have ran new wire with all those cabin lights pictured. What route did you take?>>
OKeeDokee.. I finished the lighting project last weekend. So... If anybody has any questions regarding the lighting circuit, I'm now pretty familiar with it after a year of working it out. I now have 2 led dome lights in the bow compartment, 2 in the head area, and 9 in the main compartment. AND>> they all work. Whoo Hooooo....
Only main observation I could make is iffin your battery drops below a certain voltage ( I think 9 volts ) all the lights suddenly go out.
So keep a backup flashlight.
I have a solar charger keeping the battery up, and everything is working well.
Incandescents don't drop out, they slowly become dimmer, so they kinda act like a battery indicator. I've thought of adding one incandescent dome light.
I used all the old wire, the boat is freshwater and I found the existing wire to be fine. I also found the circuit to be pretty simple and running new wire would not be that hard. I was kinda surprised.
this wiring schematic was most helpful for the project. on this webpage under the post 1988 manual ( manuals and brochures ) although my boat is an 84 it was wired up like this.
When cruising I use an oil lamp. It's always cool on Lake Superior so the lamp provides adequate cabin light and throws enough heat to make the cabin comfortable as well. Plus, my wife thinks it's romantic. A big plus in my book.
As a rule I only use the light over the sink when I first get on the boat to see the fuse panel and find a flashlight.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.