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Bow Repair

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sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/11/2010 : 05:55:42

Hello All -
I am looking for a bit of advice in the realm of fiberglass repair. Yesterday after coming into the harbor after a nasty blow (hail bouncing off of my exposed head), I came into my slip hot and and took a pretty good hit on the bow. The slip was 90 degrees to the blow on the fifth attempt or so my ego overcame my patience, went in hot, missed the mid-ship spring lines snare, then wack.

As luck would have it a previously unnoticed piece of jagged metal cross bracing, protruded ever so slightly from the exact area at the front of the slip that I "kissed". The dumb luck that piles onto a lapse in judgment is astounding, in either direction would have been a totally different story.

I now have a nice gouge in the bow, about the size of a typical dock injury but through the gel coat into the wood core.

I know the gel coat match is nearly impossible and that is fine, just want to ensure structural integrity by keeping a dry boat, dry. I crawled forward with a flashlight and don't see any signs of structural damage. Epoxy? One of those two part fiberglass epoxy repair kits? MarineTex?

Any advice is appreciated.

C25 '83 FK SR
Chicago, IL

Edited by - sweetlou on 07/11/2010 06:07:46

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 06:30:15

I'm not an expert at this, but have done some glass repair on several older boats. Here's my take...

First, I wouldn't think there is wood core in the bow section of the hull. Especially since you state that the damage went through the gel coat into the wood core. If there WAS wood core there, under the gelcoat would first be glass and resin, THEN wood core. So I'm a bit confused as to what's actually under the ding.

But if there's not structural damage that you can find outside or in - did you try and look inside, see if there was any cracking? - I would first seal up whatever it is under the gelcoat with regular, non-thickened epoxy. Depending on how much damage I might put a little patch of fg cloth there, too. THEN on top of that I'd put the gelcoat.

Pictures would help.

Carlos

Edited by - on

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 07:09:52

Carlos - Thanks for the reply. I did look at the bow from the inside and do not see anything in the way of structural damage/cracking.

I will take some pictures and post this morning.

Thanks.

Edited by - on

Ed Cassidy
Captain

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USA
365 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 07:21:19

How close to the bow eye is the damage? There is a wood backing block behind the bow eye, perhaps that is the wood you see?

Edited by - on

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 08:22:05

Ed - right on. That's probably it. All the more reason to first soak that with epoxy as a barrier coat, then a patch of cloth, then after that's set up the gel coat.

Edited by - on

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 08:46:24

Carlos - I think your initial response was correct, what I took to be wood in low light were actually pieces of fiber. No bow eye on this boat.

Photos-

1 - Overview for scale as the closeup looks really scary, note the old gelcoat repair above this hit, I think I got it below the old repair (predated me);

2 - The close-up, through the glass and resin;

3 - The buzz saw;

The album;
http://picasaweb.google.com/106556522474629598438/BowHit?feat=directlink

Thanks all, your guidance is much appreciated. Is Marine-Tex any good/appropriate for this application?

Edited by - sweetlou on 07/11/2010 09:10:10

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 09:00:40

I'll vote for Marine Tex--this is exactly what it's made for. Sand it down to just a little lower than the original surface. Then put gelcoat patch (like you can buy in a tube) over it, and then sand again with very fine grit. You can build up that other patch with gelcoat at the same time and sand it down--you should be able to just about make it disappear.

Thickened epoxy will do, too, but might be harder to apply and smooth out on a vertical surface.

You're right--there's no wood core in the hull--just the deck, cabin-top, and cockpit sole. The place you hit is the thickest, strongest part of the boat--it'll likely ride up on the dock before it sustains real structural damage.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 07/11/2010 09:06:20

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 09:01:05

Nasty dock! Glad there wasn't someone's leg in there trying to fend off the hit.

Clean out the loose bits - maybe a wire brush - then wash with acetone. Then get some epoxy in there, and level/finish with gelcoat. On an older boat I had (San Juan 21) I fixed a similar ding by sealing with epoxy, then topped it with thickened epoxy, then sanded it flush and painted it. I got a quart of exterior epoxy based porch paint and had it tinted to match the color. Looks great, and dried hard enough so that I could feather the edges. Passes the 10-foot test.

Marine-Tex is good but I think you can do a neater job with epoxy then gelcoat.

My opinion only... not a repair tech. I'd like to hear what other people think.

Carlos

Edited by - on

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 09:09:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by calden
 Nasty dock! Glad there wasn't someone's leg in there trying to fend off the hit.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Carlos you called it! After I missed the toss my attention went to the bow (instead of Reverse) where a "helpful", experienced boat going friend was moving into position to do exactly that (before I shouted NO!!) I didn't dare suggest that this was a contributing factor but I did explain just how mangled said leg would have been post hit.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 14:39:04

Curmudgeon's First Law: Never approach a dock any faster than you're willing to hit it.

Proven yet again.

I should add that I commiserate with your frustration with the wind on the beam... Were you making the approach up-wind or down? If I'm dealing with a strong wind or current across the slip and behind me as I approach, which is common for me, I'll often go past, turn around, and come back into the wind or current, so as I make the turn, it'll sorta "work for me"...

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 07/11/2010 14:49:54

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 16:11:14

Proven yet again.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes indeed!

On this particular approach I went downwind past the slip, turned around and approached upwind. The main complication (or more accurately preoccupation) for me when docking upwind on the beam is that the slip is a two boat slip and designed such that the two boats are not parallel to one another, but actually angled about 20 degrees toward one another. I recall the "star dock" being discussed a few years back on the forum, this is the key downside in my opinion.

In retrospect I should have gone with my initial plan which was to tie up at a vacant slip dead upwind until the blow passed (there were several to chose from)

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 17:05:43

If there is fiberglass damage, the fiberglass needs to be repaired. It is easily accomplished by sanding the gouge fair until a 12-1 bevel is made. Fill the dished out area that you made with the sander with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Fair it and spray gel coat over that. The structural strength will be restored and the gel coat will have it looking great.

If you're located up north, I'd let it wait until haulout.

Edited by - Happy D on 07/11/2010 17:07:23

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 17:16:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
If you're located up north, I'd let it wait until haulout.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I was a bit concerned about introducing moisture into the area and with that in mind was considering Marine-Tex now and gel coat on the hard.

The thought of exposed fiberglass meeting waves and the anchor locker drain was a bit unnerving.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 18:34:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sweetlou
 I was a bit concerned about introducing moisture into the area<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Good point. Moisture can wick into the laminate--a capillary action following the exposed glass fibers through the partially damaged resin. Then later freezing could cause delamination. (We don't know where you are...) I'd get it sealed up before too long--the cosmetics can come at your leisure.

Edited by - on

sweetlou
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2010 : 19:04:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sweetlou
 I was a bit concerned about introducing moisture into the area<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Good point. Moisture can wick into the laminate--a capillary action following the exposed glass fibers through the partially damaged resin. Then later freezing could cause delamination. (We don't know where you are...) I'd get it sealed up before too long--the cosmetics can come at your leisure.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks Dave, I am in Chicago so the freeze is inevitable. I am going to go the Marine Tex route this week weather permitting and then work on the gelcoat in the Fall after haul out.

Thanks for your advice.

Edited by - on

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