Association Forum - How to check the Keel pin on a 25 swinger

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

How to check the Keel pin on a 25 swinger

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

KiteKraemer
Navigator

Member Avatar

191 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/27/2010 : 15:04:10

Howdy folks! Has summer been treating you right?!

Got my rig all fixed up after beating it on a rock back in August, and wanted to try and inspect the keel pin (at least that's what I think it's called).
Yes, I did a search about it and read some fascinating stuff about the trunk, other odds and ends, but no keel pin per se, --- how is one to inspect this area of the boat?

I don't even know where to begin, except bringing it to a yard...
It seems nearly impossible on the trailer or in the water...

Any ideas?

Unicorn
78•C25•SK
Hood River, Oregon
http://www.eclipsefilms.com/unicorn.jpg

Edited by - on

Stuff4Toys
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2010 : 17:07:27

In my unprofessional opinion, any side to side movement should be a concern. In that I mean rocking and/or sliding side to side.

Keel Up or Down, there should be NO lateral movement. You can swim under the boat and give it a push and pull, if you see/feel any movement, it's time to take the next step.

In the case of My C25 SK the keel had been in the up position for such a long time, that the hole is GOOSE EGG sized/shaped. You can see right through the pivot hole with the keel up. It's on its way to the local machine shop to be welded and re-drilled, as well as new bushing and mounting hardware.

Also, you need to maintain the cable and winch. If it's been over two years, the general consensus is that the cable needs to be replaced.

I am sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in with their ideas, but this should give you a start.

Edited by - Stuff4Toys on 09/27/2010 17:08:30

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2010 : 19:42:27

The forward end of the keel can be easily lowered onto the trailer using threaded rod to replace the bolts - I reposted that process fairly recently, but it is in the Tech Tips. Use wood wedges on each side between the keel and the trunk to keep it roughly in position. I also described the process I used for pivot repair with the boat on the trailer.

Edited by - on

KiteKraemer
Navigator

Members Avatar

191 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 14:34:50

dave, I looked in the tech tips, couln't find it. (i am talking about the keel mechanism in the foward part of the keel, not where the cable attaches)

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 18:31:32

I tried searching for my post about repairing the swing keel pivot and couldn't find it. I'll try again to find a link to it.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 19:31:44

I couldn't find my post, but I found a later post referring to it and is edited to be more descriptive:

With the boat on the trailer, use 6" or 8" threaded rod with nuts to replace the mounting bolts at the pivot one at a time and lower the keel to the trailer - the basic approach is to put a nut and washer on the rod and turn them down 2", lock 2 nuts together on the opposite end of each rod, remove one bolt at a time and replace it with a rod, screw the nut and washer snug against the fitting and move to the next bolt. When all 4 bolts have been replaced with rods, put a wrench on the locknut to prevent the rod from backing out, then just back off the nut at the pivot assembly one or two turns and move to the next rod. Continue the process until the keel is resting on the trailer. The keel only comes down a couple of inches at the forward end. Reverse the process to re-install. I also slid wood wedges into the trunk on each side of the keel to help keep it centered. Remove the bronze fittings and check the pin and hole in the keel for wear. If it is worn or the pin is deformed (it probably will be at that age), replace it with the pin and sleeve from CD. I think the sleeve is 1 1/8" or 1 1/4", but check. It is supposed to be drilled with a drill press and press fitted, but I bought a couple of bits from HarborFreight.com and hand drilled with a ½" drill and cutting oil and got a sliding fit. I back filled the surface of the hole and coated the sleeve with a very high strength, slow cure epoxy paste and let it cure for 24 hr. Grind off the excess epoxy and polish the stainless sleeve to prevent corrosion (a Dremel tool is great) and you are ready to reassemble. I put a thin nylon washer against the keel and a stainless (bronze, not brass, would be better) fender washer against the nylon washer. The keel is rough and the nylon washer sticks and pivots with it. The fender washer provides a bearing surface larger than that provided by the bronze fitting and distributes the lateral load so the nylon washer doesn't quickly shred. It may require some compression of the spacers to align the fitting mounting bolts with the holes, but the stability and durability of my approach has made it worthwhile. It takes two partial days with the cure time, but it is neither as difficult nor complex as writing a description.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 09/30/2010 19:36:07

KiteKraemer
Navigator

Members Avatar

191 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2010 : 11:06:45

thanks for the detailed "how-to" dave, I'll be checking this soon!

Edited by - on

Tim M
1st Mate

Members Avatar

60 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2010 : 21:51:39

If your boat is on a trailer and you have a hydralic jack there's another way that I found to be quicker. I wedged a 2x12 flat on the ground between the tires nearest the front of the keel and screwed a vertical 2x4 flat against the keel on each side to it. Then with a 2x4 with 45 degree angles on the ends, screw them in as a 45 degree angle brace to support the vertcal 2x's - just loose enough to let the keel slide down and up. Make a block of 5 or 6 10"+- squares of 3/4 inch plywood (each with a slot the shape of the keel cut 1/2 way into it) glued and screwed together. Drill a hole about 1" deep large enough to accept the top of your hydralic jack in the bottom after the glue dries. Place the block and jack under the keelbehind the vertical 2x's and start jacking about 4" below the keel (for room to drop the keel) and jack the block tightly against the keel. Undo the keel hanging bolts and slowly let down the jack. Remove and examine pin and pillow blocks. Grease and reassemble (using Locktite and its primer) or replace as necessary. A worn hole can be sleeved - either by removing the keel and having it bored and pressed in at a machine shop or drilling the keel in place and expoxying the sleeve in. Both work. Good luck.

Edited by - on

lobopatrick
Deckhand

Members Avatar

USA
1 Posts

Response Posted - 05/28/2012 : 13:46:58

Great thread, Please continue this great work.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2402 Posts

Response Posted - 05/28/2012 : 19:00:59

Edited by - on

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

814 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2012 : 20:29:23

I'm going to try this threaded rod method in about two weeks. What thread pitch for the rod fits in the hanger bolt sockets in the hull? My boat is about 45 minutes one way from the nearest hardware store, so buying a rod in advance, and not having to remove a bolt and then going back to the hardware store to match up a rod will save a lot of time.

When reinstalling the hanger bolts, did you guys use anything like Loctite, or just torque the bolts to the recommended spec?

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2012 : 09:48:36

I don't remember the pitch, but I'm sure it was standard thread for the bolt size. I have sometimes used Loctite for stainless but usually not since I can't remember where I put it the last time I used it. I check them before launching twice a year and they have never been loose, but loctite doesn't have a downside.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.