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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
With all the time and effort we put into finishing the teak there's no way I'm leaving it uncovered in the off-season anymore.
We're considering a custom cover of some sorts . . . over the mast but bypassing the lifelines going straight to the gunwales - incorporating a short slot for the stanchions.
Thought I saw a picture on this forum where someone ran a horizontal rod through the u-shaped brace at the base of the stanchions. I think it provided additional points to tie-off the cover. Maybe that person will see this post and attach the pix here.
On the prior boat we used to bring the covers down to the waterline - but it chafed against the gel coat dulling the finish.
For many years I use this kind of cover on my boats:
Make a proper and solid mast support
Then I run the line from the lifeline over the mast to the other lifeline and back, from aft to stern. It will help the cover from making pools of water.
Then I put on this heavy cover
It's made from the material used for truck trailers and as I have it all in one piece I need my brother's help to lay it down over the boat. I would just suggest to have it split ;-)
Also don't forget to leave the hatches and doors semi-open to prevent dump and mould.
When I had an ODay 23 on Long Island, I got tired of using pieces of wood that I kind of put together on the fly with a different config each time, then throwing my nylon reinforced covers over it. The config you show in your link looks very good and so that is a superior wood configuration compared to what I used to do. What I wound up doing and worked very well - I saw an advertisement in one of the sailing magazines for tube couplings. You buy the tube couplings that came in straights, ells, etc and then purchase electrical conduit tubing. This went up very easy. But I do not know if they sell those couplings any more. I have not seen them any longer being advertised but I have not really been looking for them.
These days, I keep my boat in the water all year-round and I have a cusotm cover that the PO had made for him by a local sailmaker. It covers 85-90% of the topsides except for the bow area. One photo below and more on my website.
OJ, I can't see how assembling such an intricate structure and disassembling it in the spring is less work than maintaining your teak. I use something similar to Tomas', draping a large tarp over the mast. Alternatively, should you want to leave the mast up, use the boom as the tent ridge pole and linnes from the mast to the pulpit as a ridge pole forward of the mast.
This is the latest version of a cover system that I have been using for the past 12 years. It uses PVC pipe & 1/2" sprinkler tubing with some 2x4 supports. Looks complicated be after the first year it's easy to put up because you only have to partially disasemble it. added advantage is that the cover is high enough to work under. Tarp is a good quality poly tarp and lasts for 3 or 4 years in Michigan winters, with care and minor duct tape repairs.
I don't have any photos's but, I tie 1x2 boards to the mast and stanchons, and brace these with 1x1 strips horizontally. I then cover the structure with over-lapping 4x8 heavy duty tarps. I use bungy cords to secure the tarp edges to the trailer and cover the bungees with foam pipe insulation to keep them from vibrating in the wind and marring the finish.
We generally get around 180 to 250 inches of snow in the UP of Michigan and plenty of wind off of Lake Superior. This system has worked well for me over the past 23 years..
I elevated my mast to create a peak and working space, took off the spreader and tied my lifeline back rests to the mast, I then used a 20 X 30 tarp tied to the trailer to keep it off the hull.
Frank, did you keep the pop-top open? I guess security isn't as big a deal when you have the boat in your own yard, and I bet it really helped the boat "breathe".
I had good luck building a pvc skeleton that I cover with a tarp. I labelled all of the pieces and it takes me about an hour to re-assemble and cover each fall.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimGo</i> <br />Frank, did you keep the pop-top open? I guess security isn't as big a deal when you have the boat in your own yard, and I bet it really helped the boat "breathe". <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No but it was nice to be able to have it up while working on the boat over the winter.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimGo</i> <br />Todd, is that 3/4" or 1/2" pipe, and what "guage/pressure"? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I used 3/4", schedule 40 I think (the white stuff).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimGo</i> <br />Renzo, your system is pretty neat! Is [url="http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100030452/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053"] this similar to the tube[/url] that you used? Do you have any idea how many feet of tube you used (ballpark)? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yep, that's the stuff. I think I used a roll and a half of it. Definately no more than two rolls.
I have to second the comment above about getting the system set up such that the pop-top can be opened. As Frank said, it is nice to be able to stand up while you work, but from a safety perspective, you also want to crack that open if you are doing any interior work involving solvents, paint, fibreglass, fumes, etc. A fan placed appropriately, or a suitably windy day can get the boat well ventilated down the tunnel your tarp forms, but if the pop-top is closed, the airflow is greatly diminished.
Thomas - being that this will be our first year with the new trailer, I am quite interested in the way you blocked your trailer up and removed the wheels. I assume that this is to keep the rubber out of the sun. I like the idea, but wonder if anyone else is doing this and if there are any reasons to - or not to go to the extra effort.
One last thought, when looking at teh photos above, bear in mind that conditions may vary widely between what these preparations are in response to. The winter cover we use has to handle repeated freze thaw cycles and a fair amount of snow, but since we store our boat at home, the system is not as robust as some of these - I just go out once a month and knock the snow off, or drain the tarp if water starts pooling.
Some folks only have to keep leafs and rain off with an occasional skiff of snow. Some are looking at feet of snow with few thaws. Some are looking at wicked winds that could strip a tarp in a moments notice. Your setup has to match local conditions. Check the location in the signature of the person whose setup you like and then decide whether what you want to emulate is for conditions you will face.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />Thomas - being that this will be our first year with the new trailer, I am quite interested in the way you blocked your trailer up and removed the wheels. I assume that this is to keep the rubber out of the sun. I like the idea, but wonder if anyone else is doing this and if there are any reasons to - or not to go to the extra effort. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I removed the wheels because I was replacing for better tires, higher load - 670kg each. This trailer is custom made without brakes. I need to move it just a few meters in our marina. If you want to protect the tires from the UV, put some canvas/tarp on them. Over the winter I have the wheels on but the trailer is secured on that concrete stands to lift it a bit and save the axle suspension.
This concrete stands is an excelent idea of my brother. Easy to build - just fill the ordinary bucket and cheap. The advantage of it is the wide surface area on which it stands on the ground. There is just grass so normal jack stands could dig in the soil.
It's got to be expensive, but one of the best winter storage ideas I've ever read about, around 5 years ago shortly after we bought our boat, was inside an airplane hangar. There was a georgous C-25 that came up for sale in Colorado, an 87 or 89 boat, pristine condition, E-Z Loader trailer, that the guy winter-stored in an enclosed hangar (perhaps he owned a plane too). Boat was on the market for only 2 weeks. Imagine, 4 months/yr in water, 8 months in covered storage.
Our boat is covered during the winter under a 20x 30 ft tarp draped over the mast with 1/2" foam at pressure points and bungees to the frame. Tarp lasted 6 seasons before disintegrating. Notice that the stern and bow are propped open to allow for ventilation. Tires are protected with old tarps. Trailer frame is canter-levered up with no load at all on the tires and supported by standard concrete building blocks at 4 corners.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />It's got to be expensive, but one of the best winter storage ideas I've ever read about, around 5 years ago shortly after we bought our boat, was inside an airplane hangar. There was a georgous C-25 that came up for sale in Colorado, an 87 or 89 boat, pristine condition, E-Z Loader trailer, that the guy winter-stored in an enclosed hangar (perhaps he owned a plane too). Boat was on the market for only 2 weeks. Imagine, 4 months/yr in water, 8 months in covered storage. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Years ago I used to store my boats inside and the bird droppings were a real issue, and I could not work on them easily. I would love my own pole barn over my back yard pad.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />. . . the bird droppings were a real issue . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">We had a raccoon make a nest in our cockpit
FWIW, trying to minimize the amount of hardware I have to remove and store when the cover comes off each spring. Looking to use a hybrid approach between Frank's (using the mast as a center support)) and the picture in the following link (but using <u>way</u> less lumber.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />It's got to be expensive, but one of the best winter storage ideas I've ever read about, around 5 years ago shortly after we bought our boat, was inside an airplane hangar. There was a georgous C-25 that came up for sale in Colorado, an 87 or 89 boat, pristine condition, E-Z Loader trailer, that the guy winter-stored in an enclosed hangar (perhaps he owned a plane too). Boat was on the market for only 2 weeks. Imagine, 4 months/yr in water, 8 months in covered storage. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I remember that boat. It was definitely the closest to a new boat that I've ever seen.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.