Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Removed my centerboard today for repairs and painting. Thought I might as well document the CB raising system by providing pictures for future discussions.
Centerboard trench under hull (centerboard removed). Wire goes through turning ball at the top and block at the bottom then attach to the centerboard.
Turning ball
Wire goes through the hull (black tube) then through a block on the underside of the cockpit floor then to the purchase system.
Wire inside cabin going and purchase system.
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
While you have it out you might as well replace that cable with the free Vectra line retrofit from Catalina. They tell me it's only a matter of time before the cable fails.
Steve, thanks for posting those pics. I think they really show the reason it's difficult to raise the keel.
The keel haul passes around 3 blocks before it arrives at a moving block and then that block and tackle finally pass another block that does nothing except route the force 180 degrees.
Often rethinking the design I came up with this one.
Imagine a piece of 4" PVC piping with a reducer at the lower end that connects to a shortened rubber pipe in place of the existing exhaust pipe. Now the block and tackle could be rearranged so that the moving end was connected to the vectran and the fixed end to the underside of the cabin step.
This would result in the keel haul passing over 2 blocks for direction and then exerting the force directly to the moving block and thus the vectran line.
The PVC pipe could be loose fitted (perhaps some teflon grease) so that it would be possible to access the lower block, but tall enough to not worry about splash flooding (a no issue if you put a sponge in the top of the existing rubber tube)
Steve, You don't remove the turning ball. It's glassed into place. If it comes out (like mine did) you either have to glass it back in or get the replacement fixture from Catalina that drops down the tube from inside.
No wonder I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to remove it. I thought I saw plenty of people say they were changing their turning ball. Oh well.
Paul I agree. Less twists and turns is a better design. I would also add 1 extra purchase block making it 2X easier. This way we could raise the keel standing.
In terms of brainstorming how about a drastic concept and loose the whole aparatus altogether replacing it with a winch that could only be accessed from behind the stairs. How often do you really need to be outside to raise or lower the keel?
The block and tackle on your boat is setup like the Catalina drawing calls for it but I've issue with their design. With the tackle as is, the entry of the control line is at an angle that induces knots into the B&T and over a period of time those knots cause great amounts of drag in the tackle.
The fix is simple. The upper eye strap should have a twist shackle there... remove it and exchange it for the standard shackle at the lower eye strap. The effect is to rotate the B&T 90 degrees making the entry line fair to the first block. Check your B&T and see if the line isn't twisting knots in it... if it is then make the simple change of location of the twist shackle.
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Moving ahead with the keel haul project, need some measurements.
Can someone with a C250 Keel haul up system please measure the movement of the vectran line from fully up to fully down.
To clarify the measurement. With the keel fully down, put a mark on the vectran line level with the top of the exhaust pipe tubing. Then pull the keel fully up and put another mark. It's the distance between those two marks that I need to make sure my new system has enough travel.
Steve, I have addressed this issue a while back but never did get the distance that the vectran line moves.
I was able to purchase the PVC tubing and PVC reducser to replace the exhaust tube from Lowes. $7.00!!! (they sell 2' lengths of the tubing)
I'm going to relocate the exit block (the one under the fwd edge of the companionway) so that it is nearer to the aft end of the companionway. It'll mean making about a 2" hole in the tunnel. But that will provide enough travel for the new blocks in the PVC tubing to allow the full travel of the keel.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.