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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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I just installed my Rule500 auto bilge pump. Installed a 3 way switch (auto, off, manual) next to the power panel. Pump works fine in all modes. However I do have the following questions:
1. My original plan was to use the galley sink thruhull with a Y connector. However it came to my attention that this thruhull is quite lower than the port manual whale pump thruhull. Was wondering if I should continue with this idea, or install a new thruhull next to the manual one?
2. I glued the Rule 500 pump to the bilge floor with Marine grade scilicone (lots of it). Is this ok, what did you guys use?
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/27/2008 21:50:33
It seems like water draining from the sink would have the "choice" of discharging through the thruhull--or backflushing through the Y-connector down to the pump. Then you'd be dependent upon the pump not allowing any backflow or else your sink could be draining into your bilge.
I'm not familiar with that pump, but if it pumps more than the thruhull can discharge, bilge water would back up into the sink.
After testing the output flow of the 500GPH I'm quite sure the sink thruhull is big enough without causing backflushing. Furthermore my Y connector configuration should not cause backflushing. Here's a crude picture:
What I'm more concerned with it the height of the thruhull (which could be below water while sailing?). Is it a rule of thumb to close both thruhull vales for the galley and head sink before sailing?
I think the reason why the existing port bilge thruhull is set so high is that theoretically you could have lots of water (half way up) in the boat and could be able to pump it all out (assuming you fixed the source of the incoming water).
Installing a new thru-hull next to the existing port bilge thruhull sounds like the way to go so far.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/27/2008 22:35:13
Steve, your post pinched my curiosity. I just measured both Dia's of the sink and the whalepump thruhulls, 1/16" difference on the outside, but when you look in from the outside they both slimdown by at least 1/8". I had guessed the bilge pump thruhull would be bigger.
Where did you mount the bilgepump?
BTW, never ever heard the gurgling in the sink!!! (because if the boat is leaning that much, then Peggy is not at the wheel!)
There is space on the forward side of the sink that you can loop extra hose between the sink and the cabinet. This prevents the sink water from draining into the bilge.
You have a point, on port tack the sink through hull is below the water line. If you bilge hose is low and close to the through hull fitting, it could draw outside water. The loop above the sink fixes that problem too.
I also found the pump had enough power to push water into the sink. I fixed this by always having the sink drain plug set to plug the drain.
The manual bilge pump through hull is higher because that's where the bilge pump is mounted. There is no reason for it to be that high and the sink through hull will work.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Blackburn</i> <br />Paul, I mounted the bilge pump in the aft berth bilge next to the WB tank. I'll post a few pictures soon. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hmmm, that area is a bit crowded on JD, we have the AC seacock, pump, hoses and wiring down there.
Russ, thanks for the link, I couldn't find it for some reason but remmebered someone doing this. The idea of the loop is a good and important concept. However the more I think, the more I tend to go with that extra thru-hull. I see you used 3M 5200 to glue down the pump, I wonder if my scilicone will do?
Steve, Actually, I didn't use 5200 to glue down the pump (that was someone else on the link). I think silicone would work fine.
Tom Potter added a 2nd through-hull next to the manual bilge pump through-hull on his winged-keel model. Here's a link to a related post --> [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13749"]Bilge Pump[/url] Tom's pictures no longer display, but you might send him an e-mail and he might still have the pictures.
The reason for having the bilge pump outlet as high as possible is that if it's close to the waterline (like a sink drain is), and if the boat is taking enough water to get it below the surface, and the battery runs out, the line becomes a syphon and the game's over. The Y connector to the sink would break the syphon... but it still could possibly let water into the bilge under substantial heel.
I used the sink drain thru hull for my 03 WB, but also was concerned with the pump being below the water line, so I installed a one way in-line check valve. It has a spring in it that holds a ball (think of a ping-pong balled snorkel) against the pump side of the line. When the pump is on it's more powerful than the spring...when its not it seals the line from water coming from outside of the boat. Willy
Dave, that's what I believe also. However I suspect there are different qualities in such one way valves. Even so going with an extra thru-hull is the way to go. Completely unobstructed.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.