Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
First, through sneaky winds and poor handling, I've managed to break a couple of the slugs on my main. Figure they're all due for replacement on an 86 boat anyway, so where have these been found? I mean that actually work for our boat- I bought some generic ones from a marina nearby and they're a disaster- dig in when I try to raise the main and basically prevent me from sailing. Any help is appreciated regarding successful replacements.
Second, a cautionary tale. While doing a well due maintenance on my swing keel, my repair man noticed that the hose which the keel cable travels through to get to the winch was pretty well shredded. Being it's below the water line, he pointed out the obvious- if this fails, your boat fails with it. So, though it's probably obvious to you old salts, check the hose which your keel cable comes through just aft of the companionway. It could save you a trip to the bottom.
Ron and Sheyla on s/v Bella Fiore-86 S/K SR #5437. Life's too short not to sail!
I buy my slugs from West Marine because they're the only game in town. They do fine for me, they do much better when I spray slug lubricant on them. If you've matched up the old slugs with the new slugs already and determined that they're the right diameter, try a lubricant. A lot of folks simply use liquid dish soap. It makes a world of difference.
Just read in a old copy of Sail Magazine that you could cut down a old candle the size of a slug and put it in the track between the upper two slugs so that it lubes the track every time you raise and lower the sail.
I think a C-25 mast will take up to 1/2" slugs. I like the ones with SS bails. Sailrite (I think) even has some extra long and strong 1/2" slugs ideal for headboard, near reef tack, cheap outhaul car for loose-footed main. The candle wax slug is a great idea!
You may also want to change the first slug at the end of the boom to steel as wll as the first one up the mast . These to slugs carry more load and if plastic will usualy fail first .
Thanks All!- I saw my 'replacement' slugs mentioned as less favored by Don- I may lube them and retry, but my instinct is to get the right parts for the job. I'm curious, though, as to why my Catalina direct owners book didn't list slugs....?
I seem to remember, in a previous discussion of mast raising, that it was determined that tall and standard rigs have two different mast sections, in addition to two different lengths. Which makes for tall rig masts being much heavier to lift. (or is it just my pencil arms?) I just looked at the owners manual on our website (newer version) and it shows the mast slot as being .75x.75 for standard and .75x.5 for tall rig.?????????????? Does this mean that there may be two different size slugs required for tall vs. standard rig. And then I wonder if there is any difference in mast sections from older to newer boats?
The advantage of the slugs with the extended nylon jacket (Don's second picture) is that they don't score the sides of the mast groove. Downside is that they don't give you quite as much freedom to hoist/drop if you're not dead on the wind.
I've found that the all nylon slugs will deteriorate due to UV exposure and start breaking after 4 or 5 years.
I sprayed my mast groove with SailKote dry lubricant at the beginning of the season, and have had no problems, and I raise the sail about 4 times a week. What about the point of the cable 'hose'...I've not heard of that concern before. Should I be?
Paul J, Not sure if you should be concerned, but I'd definitely inspect this for wear/rot. Just grateful that I was advised to do so before I ended up below sea level! Seriously, it's a small price to pay for a good forgiving boat, no?
<center><b>Swing Keel 'Radiator' Hose</b></center> I think the C-25 swing keel lift cable hose is an under-rated Achilles heel of the design. I guess we don't hear much about it because the hose itself is very sturdy, and not under any particular stress. What worries me about it is the possibility of the hose slipping off the pipe nipple it's on. That tube the turning ball in mounted in is no more than another of the infamous Catalina 'to-hulls'. It's not a real hose barb, and the 'volcano' of fiberglass it's mounted in tends to give it a taper which would encourage the hose to slide up and off.
In similar situations, I've watched hoses installed with silicone sealant ooze right off of smooth pipe, even with a hose clamp around them. I made sure to carefully grind back any thin taper of fiberglass and/or resin extending up the pipe. I then roughed up the metal surface and glued the hose on with a polysulfide adhesive/sealant. Polyurethane adhesive, such as 3M-5200, might be a bit too permanent, but I would be sure to choose something with good adhesive properties.
I change the hose and clamps every few years if I notice the slightest signs of deterioration, usually rust in the embedded reinforcing wire spiral, or any cracking of the 'rubber'. (The factory supplied swing keel hose is actually inboard engine exhaust hose.) I install the hose with three all stainless steel marine duty hose clamps -- two tightened down, and the third one hanging loose around the 'to-hull' where it can be slid up and tightened quickly and conveniently if either of the others start looking suspicious. I also make it a point to spray metal protectant (sort of like waxy grease with a volitile solvent) into the screw mechanism of all hose clamps before installation.
Leon, I have used Boeshield to squirt into ring clamp gears. Is there anything better that you use (waxy etc)? Pls advise, thanks, Ron srsk Orion SW FL
Ron,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Leon, I have used Boeshield to squirt into ring clamp gears. Is there anything better that you use (waxy etc)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I use Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector (MPHD) which comes in a 1# spray can. Another good choice is industrial or motorcycle chain lube -- the kind that comes out as a thin foam spray, penetrates, and then sets up to a thick slime, sort of like STP. It's probably not all that important what you use -- anything's better than nothing.
>"Another good choice is industrial or motorcycle chain lube "
LPS #3 is good stuff. -- Sprays on thin, then sets up into a light, anti-corrosive grease.
That said, there are stainless clamps... and then there are STAINLESS clamps. The really good ones shouldn't have a problem with corrosion. I've found that hardware store knock-off's are problematic.
Really hi-zoot clamps are spring-loaded... the screw mechanism tightens the band against the tension of a spring. They hold a constant pressure on the hose despite temperature changes and hose shrinkage.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.