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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/26/2002 :  14:11:41  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
A friend of mine who surveys boats for a living gave The Flying wasp a complimentary once over yesterday. He noted a number of things that weren't up to snuff and I thought I might throw them out there and for everyone...I am not listing everything but some of the things that might effect everyone.

First, thank God, our hull is solid and dry. But…, if anyone is surveying your boat, and at any time you have rolled a layer or two of expoxy resin on the hull below as barrier coat or to fill a few blisters, or reinforce something, bring this up. Epoxy resin shows up as wet (really wet) on a moisture meter. I never new this, but I had the benefit of the surveyor telling it to me. If someone is going to buy your boat, the surveyor is being paid to find problems and unless you speak up, this will show up and you will lose a lot of money out of the sale.

All Thru and to hull fittings at or below the waterline should use two hose clamps. (this is supposedly a thing that some insurance companies look for and not code. It is however the preferred method) The keel wire tubing should have the same.

There are bonus points for thru hull transducers that have additional backing in place above and beyond what comes in the package. He explained this as a piece of wood with a cutout for the transducer that essentially is glassed in place and keeps other stuff in the compartment from banging around into it.

Any hose that runs below the waterline needs to be reinforced with some sort of metal...similar to radiator type hose.

Batteries must be in boxes or trays and must be strapped down. The movement, under code is less than 1 inch. If a battery box does not have a cover, terminal boots must be in place.

For those with chargers: an inline fuse at the charger end and battery end for all wires must be in place, obviously rated at the amperage of the charger.

For those with 110 shore power - the original Catalina electrical box is no longer anywhere near code. An AC panel with circuit breakers, not fuses should be used.

Outlets in the Galley and head should be GFI (Ground Fault Circuit interrupters). Even if you don't have a head, because the next guy might put one in. He said it also wouldn’t be bad for any other outlets to have this as well.

Lastly, anyone like us who still has through hull fittings and hasn't listened to Ken Cave...We should be more concerned with the gate valves on those fittings and not with the hull connection themselves. Current code is ball valves...Although the gates are sort of grandfathered…

Implications:
The implications of some of these things do not necesarilly mean that the boat won't sell, but a surveyor assumes the new purchasor will be farming out the work. Thus, the electrical panel we should have would be a 500 dollar deduction, not a 100 dollar deduction etc. He also said that some of the things he looks for on the bigger boats are things that the insurance company wants to see and they won't insure a boat until they are done. Granted, we probably could get a c-25 insured in any condition because the price is so low.


Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>




Edited by - Duane Wolff on 04/26/2002 18:33:33

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Bristle
Admiral

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USA
834 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2002 :  19:28:11  Show Profile
Good info--thanks! I'm surprised by the "breakers, not fuses" point... Fuses are much more reliable and precise than breakers--just less convenient. I've read about some applications where breakers are not allowed--only fuses. Maybe the civil servant typist got it backwards...

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT

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rclift
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2002 :  23:26:50  Show Profile
Duane, The surveyor that checked out the "buzz" required that I replace the AC electrical system with a breaker panel with a 30amp double pole breaker. I also had to upgrade the wiring from the household type single strand wire to a marine multi strand wire.

Ray Clift, 1361 "buzz"
Oregon




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