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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm obsessing about my outboard on my 2005 250K. I keep my boat year round in saltwater. I have not been able to figure out a way to flush the cooling system. Someone told me that the only way when you have the motor mounted on the transom is to put a bucket in the water, fill it up with fresh water and keep a hose running etc..
Dave, I know on my Honda I have added a tee to a rubber cooling hose with a regular hose connection. The Tohatsu should have a factory offered solution or you may be able to do something similar to what I did. Check the Tech tips and there is a wrie up on the Honda solution.
How do I FLUSH my outboard after salt-water use? It is recommended that you flush your engine when possible after use in salt-water. While the engine is salt-water rated any outboard can develop salt deposits that could lead to poor cooling over time. Below is the manufacturer's recommended flushing technique:
Caution: To avoid injury in the event of accidental starting, be sure and remove the prop and the stop switch lanyard cord from your outboard before proceeding.
Important: All Tohatsu and Nissan outboards are water cooled; running your outboard without an adequate source of cooling water will result in severe damage to your outboard!
Smaller Horsepower Outboards (2.5 & 3.5 hp) For smaller outboards, the simplest way to flush your outboard is by using a large bucket of water. Be sure the bucket is large enough to completely cover the water intake ports on the lower unit of the outboard. Also be sure that the bucket is wide enough so that no part of the motor will touch the sides/bottom of the bucket. Securely mount your outboard on a sawhorse or some other sturdy device that will allow safe operation of your outboard.
4hp and up: With 4hp-140hp outboards you can either use the optional “flushing plug” which can be attached to a hose for flushing the engine with fresh water or purchase a set of “ear muffs” (highly recommended, inexpensive, and available at virtually every marine dealer). This equipment attaches to your garden hose and clamps on to your outboard's lower unit, covering the water intake ports. Turn the garden hose on full before starting your engine. Make sure the "ear muff" motor flusher is firmly in place and correctly positions over water intakes on your lower unit. (Note: the "ear muff" motor flusher will not work on the Tohatsu 4, 5, or 6hp. With the 4, 5, or 6hp you will need to either use the flushing plug or use the “bucket technique” as described above).
Run your outboard at normal idle speed for 5-10 minutes to allow the engine to warm up and to ensure your outboard is thoroughly flushed with clean water.
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Do you sell the TOHATSU/NISSAN FLUSHING PLUG attachment? Yes. It is $8.88 + shipping in our parts dept. However, we recommend using the "ear muff" style motor flusher over the flushing attachment when possible. The manufacturer also recommends the use of the "ear muff" style motor flusher and as of 2001 has stopped including it as standard equipment. The flushing plug attachment can become cumbersome as you have to take several steps each time you wish to flush your engine. For more information, consult your owner's manual
I am in salt year round as well, so I understand your concern.
I would contact your outboard manufacturer and ask them them about a flush kit for the engine. I have a Honda 8hp 2004 and I purchased their flush kit. It is a simple attachment that connects to the engine (after you take it's cover off), and then you connect your hose to it. Turn the hose on for approximately 15 - 20 minutes and your engine is flushed.
We got a thick gauge garbage bag, bought a package of grommets and installed the grommets in on the bag. We then attached a nylon strap around the opening of the bag. When ready to flush, we simply tilt motor, slip bag over shaft/prop, lower motor back into water with bag attached, fill bag with fresh water, then run the motor in neutral for several minutes. We then raise the motor, remove the bag & empty the remaining water and stow the bag away until next time.
River, In your method do you leave the prop. on the motor? Do you think a 5 gallon bucket would with a hose in it would work? I have never been through this process before.
I keep my boat slipped all year and want to flush motor while still floating. Any help on questions below (mine is a Honda motor).
When using a flush kit from manufacterer do you need to run the motor? Does it would need to be tilted out of the water?
Anyone have anymore thoughts on flushing a motor while still on the boat?
The homemade Honda flush kit is so simple to make and install why do anything else? Its on our tech tips page. I improved it and made it with all bronze parts from Home Depot for about $10. I installed it in 5 minutes. Yes, you do have to cut a cooling hose. You don't need to run the engine to flush. I also bought the Salt Away injection kit from West marine, and flush water and Salt Away through the engine about once per month.
Much simplier than earmuffs or plastic bags/buckets. Since you pull the cowl, good time to check the oil and give the motor the once-over.
Jim, Thanks for pointing me to the tech tip. That looks like a great solution. I will get the parts together and hopefully install this week? It will make flush out more of a regular routine.
Yes, I leave the prop on the motor and can flush it while the boat is slipped. The heavy gauge bag has grommets with the nylon strap. After using the motor, I tilt it up enough to pull the bag up over the shaft, then looping the nylon strap over the motor cowling to hold the bag in place as I fill it with water. I tilt the motor back down, then fill the bag with fresh water until I know there's enough water to cover the intake port on the shaft. Then, just run the motor for a few minutes, always making certain that water is expelling to insure proper cooling of the motor. Just be careful that the motor is in neutral when running it in the bag. I've used this method for three seasons and it has worked well for me. This way, I don't have to remove the prop every time (my motor is a Merc. 9.9 and you have to remove the prop to attach the hose for flushing.) A bucket will work as long as it's deep enough to submerge the water intake port. I don't use a bucket because the bag makes it easier for me to lower the motor back into the water for filling - the bucket will tend to float. I have to tilt my motor back down to run because the tight area would not allow me to start it while tilted up and back.
River Harley
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by welshoff</i> <br />River, In your method do you leave the prop. on the motor? Do you think a 5 gallon bucket would with a hose in it would work? I have never been through this process before.
I keep my boat slipped all year and want to flush motor while still floating. Any help on questions below (mine is a Honda motor).
When using a flush kit from manufacterer do you need to run the motor? Does it would need to be tilted out of the water?
Anyone have anymore thoughts on flushing a motor while still on the boat? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.