Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I pulled all the exposed teak of exterior of the boat, and some interior (stairs). All for the time honored tradition of teak refinishing.
...what have I done?
Actually, so far the grab rails are the first to be attended to and the task is enjoyable.
I was actually surprised how easily everything came out. The only issue was with the stairs. The forward screw on the port side was partially obscurred by the teak edging on the counter next to the sink. I had no flat steel to guard the edging, so there is now the slightest marking where the screw head came up past it. Other than that everything was easy.
Now I have to start to investigate bedding compounds...
I am about to do the same thing and am leaning towards Silicone II. I usually use 4200 for everything but it is SO messy! I am anxious to hear what compounds people have had luck with as well.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John P</i> <br />I am not sure what was used on my boat, but it came off 50/50 boat to wood. Some is dry and flaky and in other areas, it was still quite tacky. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Clear or white? Silicone II is clear.
There are a few places with white, others with a dark substance. Grab rails appeared to have nothing (scary), yet there were no signs of water, The threshold was another story, that was dark. The hatch slide area was white, the cabin top slides had nothing, still no signs of water.
I like 3M 101... I think it's a little thicker and lasts a bit longer than 4200. Lets go easier too when you have to remove something. As far as the mess... I make sure I have plenty of rags and diesel handy when I'm working with it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> <br />"usually use 4200 for everything "
I like 3M 101... I think it's a little thicker and lasts a bit longer than 4200. Lets go easier too when you have to remove something. As far as the mess... I make sure I have plenty of rags and diesel handy when I'm working with it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Hi Bruce,
I was wondering ... does 3M 101 "keep" well? In other words, once you've opened up a tube of the stuff, will it stay pliable to be used on later projects?
I can't count how many tubes of 4200 I've thrown away, unused. All it takes is to open it once, or a small pin hole, and that stuff cures inside the tube in no time ...
Some one on this form recomended frezzing the stuff after you use it to stop the cureing prosses. I threw away a half used tube of 4200 last weekend and that is when I remembered that bit of unused advise.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.